'Orishigane Kiridashi' or What to do with your Shop Scrap when Bored.

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Jan 10, 2010
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I've been experimenting. Like a gnarled Alchemist in his lab melting things and seeing what they do. In this case it's nails. Wrought iron nails melted down in a little clay furnace with the name of 'Aristotle' (thank to Skip Williams from Rockbridge Bloomery for sharing his work in this stuff). So the furnace is just a small clay stack with a 5.5" wide mouth and about 12 inches tall with an air chamber designed as a reservoir for the air from a small blower. I used a hair dryer. There is a hole in the stack within that chamber that angles down to the bottom. You basically heat it up by burning wood, then fill it with charcoal until you get the 'dragon's breath' shooting from the top. You then start feeding your iron or mild steel or whatever shop scrap you can scrounge into it a little at a time. You put something in, let the charcoal burn down a bit, add some iron, etc... In my case I ran it for about 45 minutes and used 12 or so wrought iron nails. The idea is that you are melting the iron in a reducing environment with lots of opportunity to take up carbon from the charcoal which will give you steel if you have all your ducks lined up.

Meet Aristotle:

aristotle_furnace.jpg


After burning down the charcoal I fished out this... about a 3/4# bloom of metal:

bloom-1.jpg


I took it to the grinder to spark test it.... hot damn! High carbon from wrought iron! Unbelievable. Things never work for me the first time.

bloom_spark.jpg


I don't have a picture, but pure wrought iron sparks in straight flashes without feathery fireworks. According to others who know more than me, this sparks like 1080ish.

So I was curious what kind of blade you could make by just forging down that bloom without all the stacking and welding one would normally do with bloomery steel... which refines and distributes things more evenly. I just forged a 4 inch long and 1/4" thick billet from it and ground a single beveled edge into a kiridashi. I quenched in water expecting the whole thing to shatter. But instead it got very, very, very hard. I did a brass rod test after my first tempering cycle at 350F and the edge chipped so I took it to 400F and it performs great along the entire edge. And that is despite the chaotic etching pattern. A little bit of everything in there! Beyond my comprehension at this point.

But here it is .... The sheath is claro walnut backed by leather. Braintan doeskin liner. A wrought iron nail head keeper and a peened copper tubing.

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Aristotle survived and now serves as a model for my new line of Nailed Neck Knife Kiridashi.

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I like it, it's got a LOT of rustic charm.

and that is a very interesting method of manufacture!
 
Pretty cool Scott, in many different ways. I'm really liking the rustic/primitive style and designs, early America with some Japanese mixed in there. The sheat/necker kiridashi idea is great. Mine might get hung that way at some point. Does this rustic alchemy have the same "strength" as a 1080ish steel? I ask because of the method, or lack of welding/hammering the bloom. Or, do you expect it to ever break on or at those fissures?

I'm really digging mine Scott. I've carried it every day, in my pocket. I've used it to help re-hang an double bit axe, shaved off some hair, open boxes, and many other tasks. I'm not bored with knives, but the change is nice. In comparison, my other kiridashi is a POS, rolled the entire edge working on that hickory axe handle. Yours still shaved hairs after using it hard. Thanks, and cool sheaths by the way!
 
Thanks guys... And thanks for the feedback on that dash. Glad you like it. I carried one for a long time. Pretty useful.

Actually, this bloom was worked down with the hammer and well consolidated. It just wasn't cut up, folded and welded like these are normally processed... The way tamagahane would be. The fissures are welding flaws from when I tried to hammer down little knobs and nodes back into the main billet. So they are superficial. The core is solid. Again... I wouldn't do this on a full size blade, but for a 4" dashi, it works great. This thing hardened so incredibly well that I'm starting to think it might be higher than 1080.

Upcoming projects for this stuff will be to make jacket material for a laminated blade. I will also start sending out samples for analysis.. I have to know what is going on in there.
 
That is really interesting, thank you for sharing. I want to try it one of these days, that looks awesome!
 
D.. I like that face too. I was probably more relieved that the face lived through the burn than the fact that I succeeded in making my own steel. I find myself out in my shop having discussions with him. Great listener.
 
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