Osage Orange and Cocobolo handles

AR_Freak

AR_Freak

Joined
Nov 13, 2005
Messages
256
Hi All,

I tried to search but didn't see quite what I was looking for.... How does the 'hive mind' feel about either osage orange or cocobolo as a suitable handle material for a camp/survival knife? I know other materials that might be better, certainly micarta is one. As I happen to have some available I wondered if either would be worth mounting in terms of durability.

Thanks!
 
As I understand it, cocobolo is durable and osage orange is extremely durable. I don't know how impact-resistent they are, but they will hold up against any kind of rot.
 
Cocobolo is very solid.
We haven't assimilated any Osage Orange but it is only a matter of time. Resistance is futile.
 
Thanks for the replies! I hadn't really considered impact strength..with approx. 6 inch scales, would that be a large factor? I know that both are quite dense with osage having one of the highest densities of any wood. Something else I guess I need to consider as I plan on it being a hard use knife.
 
Osage is very hard, dense and will resist damage from impact.

Cocobolo has natural oils in it to help it resist cracking, but it not as tough, imho, as osage.

Properly sealed and finished osage would be very nice.


From a knifemaker's point of view....osage is a bear to grind. You will need fresh, coarse belts. You can achieve, however, a very nice finish with no varnish/lacquer. A little oil/wax on the handle now and then will keep it finished nice.

Cocobolo is a lot easier to grind/cut, mostly because of the oil in it, and because it is less dense. Generally speaking, it has a better looking grain pattern to it.

So, if toughness is your only criteria, go with Osage.

YMMV
 
Daniel Koster said:
Osage is very hard, dense and will resist damage from impact.

Cocobolo has natural oils in it to help it resist cracking, but it not as tough, imho, as osage.

Properly sealed and finished osage would be very nice.


From a knifemaker's point of view....osage is a bear to grind. You will need fresh, coarse belts. You can achieve, however, a very nice finish with no varnish/lacquer. A little oil/wax on the handle now and then will keep it finished nice.

Cocobolo is a lot easier to grind/cut, mostly because of the oil in it, and because it is less dense. Generally speaking, it has a better looking grain pattern to it.

So, if toughness is your only criteria, go with Osage.

YMMV
Click to expand...

Thanks Mr. Koster,

I believe I'll go with the osage. I think it will be quite the learning experience! I currently have another blade on order with an osage handle so I'll at least have a good representation of how it should look! LOL
 
I second the Osage Orange. We call it Bois D'Arc (bo-dark) here in Texas and there are a lot of 100 year old fence posts still in the ground made from that tough hard stuff. I've made a few knives from it and it takes a beautiful natural shine when buffed.... A couple of other drawbacks to cocobolo are the fact that it tends to turn black over time and plays havoc with allergies. I have very minor allergies and cocobolo dust drives them absolutely crazy.
 
It's a good idea in working with any wood to cover up. That definitely includes some kind of mask and gloves. if you find you are not reacting to the wood, fine, but please don't take a chance with your lungs. You could find out you're sensitive to it too late.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
It's a good idea in working with any wood to cover up. That definitely includes some kind of mask and gloves. if you find you are not reacting to the wood, fine, but please don't take a chance with your lungs. You could find out you're sensitive to it too late.
Click to expand...

Roger that! Thanks for the advise!
 
Diverting from knives but I seem to remember Osage being used to make either bows or arrows years ago. I have a couple of Coco knives and they are not an issue of any sort. I'm more partial to Rosewood or Walnut though.
 
I love osage orange, although I don't use it very often. Osage has proven to be a very tough, durable, and stable wood. It's also fairly heavy (for a non stabilized wood) which can help in balancing the knife. The only thing I don't like about it, is it comes off the grinder neon yellow...it does darken with oil and age however :).

If you're planning on a true hard use knife, go with micarta; you can refinish it yourself with a Scotch Brite pad, it will not shrink or swell, it's stronger than any wood, it is resistant to heat, it's stable even in extreme conditions(when you're standing next to a fire in the winter the rapid temperature change from hot to cold can do a real number on certain natural handle materials), it has a good weight, and it is readily available. The obvious downside is it completely lacks "uniqueness" and character, at least in my opinion.

Matt
 
I am a "osage" man myself and if I was limited to using only it on my knives I would be perfectly happy.

It is not bad to work as long as you start with sharp belts and use wood rasps to shape things up.

I add color with a torch near the end...then hit the handle with some 0000 steel wool to knock off the whiskers...then while the handle is still warm....smear as much paste wax as the handle can take. Once it cools I give it a light polish. Holds up great.

The knife in my signature line is osage
 
Thanks again for all feedback guys..It is appreciated :thumbup: My RD7 (satin finish, flat grind, osage) from Sage Creek should be here next week so I'll have an 'in the flesh' blade to compare. Not very "tactical" looking I suppose but I'm sure I'll be pleased. BTW, anyone happen to own one of these particular models? As I've heard there are only three of this type for SC exclusively, just curious.

Thanks!
 
Ok, somebody has got to say it.... "This thread is worthless without pics"! Let's turn this into a Osage and Cocobolo handled knives thread with lot's o' pics.
 
cheap knife, but coco scales, or should I say 'scale slivers'.

coco.jpg
 
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