OT: Car repair help

etp777

etp777

Joined
Aug 12, 2002
Messages
2,259
OK, three day weekend, decided I should finally replace timing belt in my truck(95 Isuzu 2WD 2.3L EFI 77K miles). I've had belt and tenioner for 6 months or so, just never gotten around to doing it.

Have front of engine mostly dealt with. Fans off, all the accessory belts are off, but now I'm stuck. Crankshaft pulley retaining belt won't budge. Truck is stick whift, so put it in gera with emergnecy brake on(as I don't have the flywheel holder tool). I can get bolt to turn about 10-15 degrees either way, but it's turning whole crankshft, isn't coming lose. Have 24" breaker bar on there now to get that much, dont' really want to put a pipe on it as I don't want to force it too much, but think I'm stuck, as can't get anything else to work.

There's special flywheel holder tool that shop manual suggests getting for this process, but I can't get local dealership to order it for me, and it's something that like clamps on pulley and wedges against other stuff or something(cant' quite tell from picture, but that's near as I can figure. Flywheel isn't exposed at this time, so it's not something where I can use a regular generic flywheel holder).

Any suggestions? Or anything I should know(like it isn't reverse threaded, is it?) Any help on this would be greatly appreciated, especially if it comes before noon or so tomorrow so I can finish this up in time to still go by work for a bit tomorrow night.
 
If it is not too late, I would suggest going down to the local library and getting a repair manual for the vehicle. Our local library carries such manuals for all kinds of cars/trucks. I bet yours does too.

The manual will detail what needs to be done.
 
This is what I'd do.

See if you can get a bar into the driveshaft at Ujoint. If you can then turn the shaft with tranny in neutral until you can get the bar braced against the frame. Stick the car into reverse or low and give it a try.

If this fails you might try making a tool yourself.
 
Semp has the best idea so as to not break something. But if you wanna take a chance a sharp blow with a heavy, 2 - 5 pound, hammer often works or at least it did on the old '50 models.:D
I used the trick on my old '51 Chevy and my '57 Ford.
 
I like the hammer idea, too, but it all boils down to "right tool for right job."

I hate to think of all the projects I made worse by taking shortcuts and using the wrong tool.
 
Yeah, I was really thinking about the hammer, but decided not to for now. Timing belt, and anything that dies when it goes, is still under warranty through next April. So I think I'm just gonna leave it alone for now. I did change out all the accessory belts while I was under there, and in past coupla weeks also done plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil and PCV valve, so it's running better than it has for a while, and I'll just leave it at that for now. And maybe go buy myself a motorcycle. ;)

Good advice on the shop manual, I do have one here, that's what told me to use the flywheel holder. :) Actually have the Chiltons and the real shop manual, I suggest anyone who doesn't have official shop manual for their car buy it. Helm Inc, at www.helminc.com is the publisher for most of them. Stuff that is rather vague in a Chiltons or Haynes is exact in the shop manual, as they don't try to cover as many vehicles. THanks for the advice guys.
 
I put a strap wrench on the crankshaft pulley and turn it till the handle hits the ground, then I can loosen/tighten the bolt.
Regards,
Greg
 
Don't worry Bruise, I hit LOTS of things with the coupla hammers while I was working on my truck. :)
 
Ripper said:
I put a strap wrench on the crankshaft pulley and turn it till the handle hits the ground, then I can loosen/tighten the bolt.
Regards,
Greg
Click to expand...

There you go! That's what I would try first... If you're going to use a cheater bar, put it on the strap wrench handle to make things easier.

Good luck.

Norm
 
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