OT....straightening a bent blade

[ichor]

I bought a box of junk at a garage sale, for a dollar, and, among other little treasures, it contained a Henckels paring knife. The idiot who owned it did all kinds of terrible things to this little kitchen blade, but I have managed to correct most of them and now have a pretty nifty little paring knife for virtually nothing. Problem is, somehow this moron managed to put a pronounced curve in the blade. If I look down on the spine, the blade curves to the right. If it curved to the left it would be much more useful for certain chores. but I'd like to have it as straight as possible.

So, having said all that, what is the best way to straighten this blade? I was thinking that I would just put it in a vise about half way down (that's where the curve starts), throw a towel over it and just try to bend it back. Comments.....suggestions?

 

[Red]

Wrapping the blade in something or putting it between two pieces of wood in the vice is the safest way to straighten it.

 

[Pappy]

I don't think that I would do it that way but, I don't know whether the bend is a steady thing to the tip or a sharp angle bend at some point about half way down the blade.

If from the start of the bend there is a gradual curve to the tip, I would put a couple inch wide board in the vice flat ways so you can clamp the blade. Put a small block of wood under the tip and another a short ways passed the bend. Use a C-clamp and bow the blade the other way from the bend you have now. Do this a little at a time and back off the clamp so you don't wind up bending it too far.

I don't know whether this does you any good or not. Or maybe it is clear as mud. I have straightened blades for my sons that got a little wild and threw knives that should not have been used for throwing. They are lucky they did not break. Almost any way you do this with out heat a good blade may pop. That is why I say do it a little at a time

 

[ichor]

Thanks, Pappy. I'll try that first. it just a long, easy curve, starting at approx. the middle to the tip. It's not like it's that important, I just wanted to see if I could bring it back to normal.

 

[firkin]

Henckels:

Well, since some owner bent it, I guess it must be somewhat ductile. So my guess is that you're safe to try and bend it back if you go slow and steady--don't try and push way past straight hoping for spring-back if it's stainless.

Some of their new stuff isn't forged or stamped--it's freaking sintered and brittle as hell. At least the 4-star junk I have is--After they are a bit old, you can see the sinter line at the ricasso where they change steels going into the tang.

I've broken a bit of the tip of a slicer (not so bad) and snapped a thin sheep's foot shaped parrer off right at the ricasso at the sinter line. (BAD--and I was stropping it on cardboard).:grumpy:

At least the price was right (for you, not me)

 

[ichor]

Originally posted by firkin
Henckels:

Well, since some owner bent it, I guess it must be somewhat ductile. So my guess is that you're safe to try and bend it back if you go slow and steady--don't try and push way past straight hoping for spring-back if it's stainless.

Some of their new stuff isn't forged or stamped--it's freaking sintered and brittle as hell. At least the 4-star junk I have is--After they are a bit old, you can see the sinter line at the ricasso where they change steels going into the tang.

I've broken a bit of the tip of a slicer (not so bad) and snapped a thin sheep's foot shaped parrer off right at the ricasso at the sinter line. (BAD--and I was stropping it on cardboard).:grumpy:

At least the price was right (for you, not me)

This one appears to be older and one of the better knives. I don't see anything that looks like a "sinter" line. It looks forged. Marked "J.A. Henckels" followed by the Henckels logo guy with the spear then "No Stain" 10220-100 (4"). This is followed by something I never noticed on Henckels before: A double row of 6 tiny, vertical boxes. On the first row, the third box up is filled in with black. Now what could that mean Henckels fans? Then, a suprise for me anyway, "SPAIN". I didn't know they made any of their knives in Spain. Well, learn something new..........

 

[firkin]

The sintering is a recent "improvement" used on some lines. But I don't know much about Henckels except that I'm less than impressed with mine, which are supposed to be one of the better of their several lines.

I know that some are made in Spain (well, knew before-- ) and that some are made in Japan (I think Sanyo or Sanjo--sp??) including the sintered ones.

Dunno much at all about the markings except it seems more is supposed to be better within a series. Mine have what looks four linked men on'em, and I've seen less expensive with three men, more expensive with five men.



What I do know, is I ain't buying anymore like what I got!

 

[Yvsa]

Originally posted by firkin
What I do know, is I ain't buying anymore like what I got!

Firkin my Barbie and me like These very, very well.
They're made in Italy, little known in the States, but well known in Europe as I understand. Excellent quality at prices generally less than the more familiar brands.
They also have a really, really nice smooth steel that's hard chromed to 64 Rc IIRC. I bought the oval one and have never looked back. My son bought us a nice grooved steel of a good brand a few years back and only when the knives get really dull do I have to swipe them against it to remove just a bit of steel from the edge. Then it's back to the smooth steel to realign the edge

 

[firkin]

Yep, Yvsa,

Some of those are on my list!!

For when I have $$ and want some European-style kitchen knives, most especially the steel!!

Right now, a couple of hand-convexed Scandi blades I hafted kick butt for peeling veggies, and a no-name hand-forged, super thin French stainless chef's knife or a cheap Japanese vegetable knife do most of the work. The thick Henckles are for flailing at hard winter squash and such, and the thinner Henckels are taking up space

But I don't like thick bolsters that go all the way down to the edge--eventually a hook appears in the blade in front of it and you lose the rocker, unless you file/grind the bolster back. IMO, the factories should thin the bolster to blade thicknes about 1/4" from the edge. For you guys with grinders, I'm sure it's a minor deal.

 

[Yvsa]

Originally posted by firkin
Yep, Yvsa,

But I don't like thick bolsters that go all the way down to the edge--

Firkin you won't be disappointed! Due Buoi also makes a "stamped" line as well as the forged. The stamped knives don't have the heavy bolster. You might want to check them out, but, I don't know how they are, yet if they're anything like the forged line they're mighty fine.

And you're correct. For those of us with grinders it isn't a problem.

 

[Pappy]

To me it is a joy to use a good knife so I never really worried much about normal wear on the blade. Most of the knives that are used in our kitchen are pretty darn good blades. Don't need sharpening very often, A couple of passes with the ceramic and a few strokes on the strop and they are fine for a long time. The two knives that Sarge gave my wife I haven't had to sharpen yet. One is a file and one is a Brusletto?. Both are outstanding steel knives. The only time I get to touch them is to sharpen them. So, I use my 12" AK's and Bilton when she wants help in the kitchen.