OT: Using BLO on Soft Woods Like Pine?

[1215]

Cliff's notes in the beginning because I can be long-winded: Can someone explain the pros and cons of using BLO to preserve and treat a couple of ~35yo 2x4's on a workbench?


My parents are downsizing and just sold their home. As part of this process I inherited a lot of stuff, including my father's workbench. Its nothing more than a 4x8 sheet of plywood supported by a 2x4 frame and pressure treated 4x4 legs. He used it as a general workbench however I'm into cars, motorcycles --well pretty much anything that burns petrol (like putting a 4.5hp engine in a 3hp snowblower and then running it on 110 low-lead AVGAS). As such, I will frequently be putting much more weight on the table than its ever seen in the last ~35 years.

I bought some 8' 2x6'es and plan on reinforcing the outer frame and supports with them which I think will both support more weight and prevent/correct the bowing or sagging in the middle of the table. As I was taking the table apart to move it I noticed two things, first, that each of the four kids have carved our names/initials in the 2x4's in a few places --or my brother who loves fire used a blowtorch to write his name in a few places . Sappy & sentimental yes, but the dings, cuts and holes also bring back memories of all the Pinewood Derby cars & projects we did with dad over the years. Second thing I noticed was all of the indents on the bottom of the front 2x4 from using C-clamps to secure things to the table.

My thought now for the front & outer perimeter of the table is to keep the original 2x4 frame as-is, and then add the 2x6 reinforcements just behind them, meaning the front & rear are currently 8' 2x4's and the left & right sides are 44" long 2x4's. I'll keep that frame exactly as-is and cut a (doing math in my head) ~92" long 2x6 for the front & rear boards and ~40" long 2x6'es for the left & right sides, with 45-degree angles so I'll make a 2x6 box that slides directly inside the 2x4's... bolt the 2x4's to the 2x6'es and build/put it back together from there. This gives me the original 2x4's on the outside with all of the sentimental stuff and makes the table much more functional. Using C-clamps on a 2x6 the long way with 3/4" plywood on top of it can problematic unless you have giant clamps.

There is years of grease, gasoline, oil, oil & latex based paints, mineral spirits, turpentine, acetone, epoxy & resins and pretty much anything else you could imagine dried onto or soaked into this thing. Also, the wood has spent about 35 years in a basement next to a dehumidifier.

Would putting BLO on the outer 2x4's as a preservative be good/bad? Smart/stupid? Would it create a fire hazard any more than anything else (like using ether, acetone, 110 low-lead fuel, etc), or would the BLO potentially react with anything on there? When/if it ever dries would the BLO harden the wood like a hickory haft or would it possibly soften the pine sap and I'll end up with a sticky mess?

Thanks for reading/replying. Couldn't find another online forum/resource to ask and some of you guys seem to be linseed oil experts.

 

[halfaxe]

BLO has been used for decades to restore and protect wood from drying. It may darken the wood but that is the only possible downside I see.

 

[1215]

Thanks. I didn't want to end up with a sticky mess but I suppose I'll never know until I try and even if I do can't I just wipe it down with turpentine on a rag?

 

[Twindog]

I treated my new workbench with BLO and didn't have any trouble. It works well. The bench is on an open-air deck.

Just for you, I went out and held a lighter under a well-treated spot and it didn't catch fire. Did leave a black mark, as will happen with any wood. But the BLO didn't catch.

As far as reinforcing, it will all depend on what you plan to do. For a top on my bench, I used 2x10s and 4x4 legs, all deep screwed to walls and 2x4 frame. I've never been a big fan of plywood, other than for outer walls and roof decks, where it has an incredible amount of shear strength.

 

[LEGION 12]

Don't forget to get rid of the rags the right way they will combust.

 

[Square_peg]

OT: Using BLO on Soft Woods Like Pine?

I think it's commendable that you want to save and use your father's bench. Good on you.

I don't think BLO will do any harm and will surely add to the life of the bench. But if it's made out of very soft wood it might benefit from a coat or two of Benite wood sealer. Benite penetrates the cells of the wood and turns it harder. After treatment with Benite then consider BLO or some other finish. I think I'd choose something like tung oil or some other wiping varnish that would form more of a protective barrier than BLO would.

 

[rjdankert]

If you like the look of a BLO finish and you are ok with the time and money involved, then go for it. Either way, that wood will be solid for generations.

Bob

 

[1215]

Don't forget to get rid of the rags the right way they will combust.

I don't know that I've ever used a rag with BLO. I pour it into an old plastic Chinese food container and use a paintbrush to apply/brush it on.

 

[1215]

If you like the look of a BLO finish and you are ok with the time and money involved, then go for it. Either way, that wood will be solid for generations.

Bob

I got really lucky and asked the customer service desk at Home Depot if they sell scratch & dent the other night because there were several mangled cans of BLO on the shelf... They sold me 4 gallons of kleen strip brand for $15.

Not so concerned with the look of BLO finish as much as I am with preserving and hardening the wood. It's a 3/4" sheet of 4x8 plywood that will be ridden hard and put up wet. My biggest concern was that I'd put BLO on the pine and it would stay sticky or it would become a fire hazard or react with all the other stuff that's already on there.

 

[1215]

I think it's commendable that you want to save and use your father's bench. Good on you.

I don't think BLO will do any harm and will surely add to the life of the bench. But if it's made out of very soft wood it might benefit from a coat or two of Benite wood sealer. Benite penetrates the cells of the wood and turns it harder. After treatment with Benite then consider BLO or some other finish. I think I'd choose something like tung oil or some other wiping varnish that would form more of a protective barrier than BLO would.

Thanks for the Benite tip. My dad also suggested tung oil vs. BLO but I know nothing about woodworking so this whole thing is a learning process. I guess my 4 gallon purchase of BLO may not be so great after all....

As dad & I rebuild/put this thing back together in my garage less and less of it is looking like the original bench --but we are saving the good parts and he and my nephew carved their names into the legs today so it will live on and see at least one more generation of Pinewood Derby cars and bird houses.

I'm not so worried about the structural parts, mostly worried about the 2x4s on the sides and the joints/seams. I say today that this is my dream house and I'll die here but who knows in 10-15 years. He moved this thing to North Carolina & back once already so I want to be able to do the same if we ever move. Hard to make something robust and strong yet able to be easily broken down, moved and put back together. This is why I want to preserve and strengthen the wood, not just make it look nice.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[neal70]

it might soften or cause to be oily some of the stains you talked about but there's no way to know without biting the bullet and trying it.if it does loosen something wipe it up and let that area dry-then try re-application.that dosen't work try sealer,maybe shellac,then reapply. if you are worried about flex in the top put in crosspieces or if those are already present blocks between them perpendicular(you know north-south and east west). after re-reading your 1st post,i would also recommend spar varnish to you(some call it bar varnish).you may gain better adhesion,will do just as much to preserve and it can be nice on a workbench because it has a little grab,like it remains minutely tacky.it's not hard to put on in a situation like this and it goes on thick. good luck and hope i helped , instead of being an ass

 

[pjwoolw]

Apply the BLO liberally and let it soak for a half hour. Longer if the temperature is colder. Wipe off the excess with those blue shop towels on a roll. Wait 24 hours and have another go at it. Sand lightly or use some synthetic steel wool between coats if you wish. But unless its the top of the bench don't worry about it. Two or three coats will be good. If you choose to do it at all. Watco would be faster and better for your application IMHO. Keep in mind that BLO is going to take awhile to completely gas out and cure. So its will be a bit odiferous for some time.

 

[1215]

I treated my new workbench with BLO and didn't have any trouble. It works well. The bench is on an open-air deck.

Just for you, I went out and held a lighter under a well-treated spot and it didn't catch fire. Did leave a black mark, as will happen with any wood. But the BLO didn't catch.

As far as reinforcing, it will all depend on what you plan to do. For a top on my bench, I used 2x10s and 4x4 legs, all deep screwed to walls and 2x4 frame. I've never been a big fan of plywood, other than for outer walls and roof decks, where it has an incredible amount of shear strength.

Ha! Wait until your kids start burning or carving their names into it! At least it won't burn your house down

I'm not the biggest fan of plywood either but it's what dad chose 30 years ago so I'm stuck with it. Mine is in the shop (detached 4-car garage that I've taken over) so inside and out of the weather, soon to be dehumidified and climate controlled. I have about 1000 projects going on: upgrade house to 200A service at my garage not the house, install 8x 1kw solar panels on the garage/shop roof, dig trench to feed new 200A power to house and sewer/plumbing back to the garage, put clutch in plow truck before snow falls, I've just lined the shop walls with R-13 and now need to figure out the wood stove in the corner (and see if it's to code and walls are fireproof)... All of this will be much easier with a proper workbench.

I bolted 2x 2x4's to the back wall and then used joist hangers to hang six 2x6'es coming out to a 2x6 at the front of the bench. Then we bolted the 2x4's around the outer 3 sides so it looks like his old bench (and it's easier to clamp to). We reused the old pressure treated 4x4 legs and lower X braces. We notched the "front-to-back" 2x6'es twice so we could run 2x 2x4's flat from side to side on top of the table to reinforce the 3/4" plywood that lays on top. All in all it's pretty crazy but somehow I'll still try to find a way to break it.

With the BLO or other oil, I'm worried about things like welding on the table (I have arc, mig & tig) or using a MAP torch to cut or heat seized bolts/parts, etc. Thanks for the feedback. I suppose once it's dry I have nothing to worry about and as usual, I'll keep the fire extinguisher charged and nearby.

 

[Lieblad]

......

 

[neal70]

watco is another good choice and dead easy to use : just follow the directions and repeat for more coats. i use it on a lot of my turnings

 

[Twindog]

Ha! Wait until your kids start burning or carving their names into it! At least it won't burn your house down

I'm not the biggest fan of plywood either but it's what dad chose 30 years ago so I'm stuck with it. Mine is in the shop (detached 4-car garage that I've taken over) so inside and out of the weather, soon to be dehumidified and climate controlled. I have about 1000 projects going on: upgrade house to 200A service at my garage not the house, install 8x 1kw solar panels on the garage/shop roof, dig trench to feed new 200A power to house and sewer/plumbing back to the garage, put clutch in plow truck before snow falls, I've just lined the shop walls with R-13 and now need to figure out the wood stove in the corner (and see if it's to code and walls are fireproof)... All of this will be much easier with a proper workbench.

I bolted 2x 2x4's to the back wall and then used joist hangers to hang six 2x6'es coming out to a 2x6 at the front of the bench. Then we bolted the 2x4's around the outer 3 sides so it looks like his old bench (and it's easier to clamp to). We reused the old pressure treated 4x4 legs and lower X braces. We notched the "front-to-back" 2x6'es twice so we could run 2x 2x4's flat from side to side on top of the table to reinforce the 3/4" plywood that lays on top. All in all it's pretty crazy but somehow I'll still try to find a way to break it.

With the BLO or other oil, I'm worried about things like welding on the table (I have arc, mig & tig) or using a MAP torch to cut or heat seized bolts/parts, etc. Thanks for the feedback. I suppose once it's dry I have nothing to worry about and as usual, I'll keep the fire extinguisher charged and nearby.

Another idea is to fit a sheet-metal top to your workbench, since your going to be playing with fire.

That's a serious amount of solar power. I'm 7 miles off grid, and power my cabin with about 1.5 KW of panels. It's more power than I can use in the summer, but I run short in the winter and have to run a small Honda 2000 inverter-style generator from time to time.

Good luck with your project.

 

[1215]

Another idea is to fit a sheet-metal top to your workbench, since your going to be playing with fire.

That's a serious amount of solar power. I'm 7 miles off grid, and power my cabin with about 1.5 KW of panels. It's more power than I can use in the summer, but I run short in the winter and have to run a small Honda 2000 inverter-style generator from time to time.

Good luck with your project.

RE: Power...
I have two 42U server racks (racks about the size of a refrigerator) that need to run 24/7/365 as well as a house I'd like to keep warm and a 50' x 50' workshop with a bunch of toys like MIG, TIG & ARC welders, compressor, drill press, parts cleaning booth and a fastener cleaner/tumbler that I'd like to be able to use. In addition to the house appliances, the server racks and associated IT/nerd stuff draws a decent amount at idle and an absurd amount when they exceed 50% use. The requirement of power and HVAC for the servers and their scheduled jobs, as well as running bare essentials throughout the rest of the house (and once we go down this road I have a feeling that she will add the central air to the "essentials" list) combined with my want to keep the beer cool in the shop and use a welder at the same time has me reasonably considering 5+ KW... Add to that my better half is considering electric for her next vehicle and I don't think 4 KW or even 5 KW is out of line. Worst case I can sell back to the grid.

A good friend's employer does contract work for a major US telco company. Some of the telco companies used to put 2-4 12V deep cycle batteries in boxes hanging from telephone poles to power the lines (for 911 purposes among other things) in the event of power outages. Now that most of them are moving away from copper and going over to fiber, his company was contracted to remove the 12V battery backup systems and update to whatever new setup they are running. I forget exactly how many but I was able to acquire either 35 or 37 (a lot) 12V deep cycle batteries through a barter agreement. The solar panels are about $1/watt so if I can keep the whole project under $10k, my current power bill is upwards of $400/month... it should pay for itself in just about two years. I already own a generator because my current battery backup for the server racks only lasts 3-7 minutes, depending on load/draw. Roof pitch orientation is my biggest worry with the panels. I need to replace the roof shingles ASAP so mounting will be quick/easy work its just that the roof peak faces north/south so each side faces east/west. Need to do more research on this before mounting.

Our new house/property is on grid but is several miles down a wooded peninsula and we were forewarned that the point loses power frequently and often for several days at a time. The point/neighborhood association owns the access road to the neighborhood which means it is a disaster when lines go down and cost prohibitive for us to pay to have just about five miles of lines buried.

Re: Workbench...
We are new to the home & property. It is a 50'x50' 4-bay shop/garage that is essentially shell (bare studs) with a 16' ceiling and a second floor. It was built in the early 1950's as a work shed/barn-ish type building and then modified with the four garage doors so it is somewhat well built and basically looks like a modified red barn. Its a blank canvas right now but yes, a metal-ish bench is in the works for welding. There was a wood working shop on the second floor so I decided to install my father's bench up there where I'll be mostly tearing down and rebuilding engines, as well as doing woodworking --but there will always be a temptation/need to use fire of some sort, even if it's to free up a seized bolt. Downstairs (on the cement floor) I'll be building a 4" thick 3'x5' concrete bench with a 24" cement back splash, against one of the walls for welding. (You pour fine/finish cement into a mold and it ends up looking like a granite counter top, only cement.) Still have not decided all the details for that bench/station but that is the current plan. Undecided if the cement should be covered with metal (copper, soft and expensive but good heat transfer properties) or just left as cement (hard & cheap but welding slag can pit cement). Before each bench is made/built I need to replace/update the wiring in the walls so it is at or better than current code, add new outlets and switches for overhead lights if needed, inspect each stud and then replace or strengthen (double up) if needed, insulate (2x4 so R-13) and finally cover the bottom 48" with 1/4" plywood and the top either with more plywood or pegboard, depending on where it is. Its a long process but I'm getting there...

Sorry to ramble on again.

I started with BLO on some pieces but then moved to Benite and Tung oil for the rest. I like the Benite & Tung oil combo much better than the BLO. Thanks!