OT: What to use for Gluing Tusks

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May 19, 2004
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Hello All,

I need your advise on what type of glue/epoxy to use to glue together some boar tusk's I have. Some are in 2 or 3 pieces and need to be glued together to make (1) tusk.
The glue/ epoxy would need to be white in color when dried,to be able to fill cracks and also be able to be sanded smooth when cured. It should also be able to take a clear coating to protect the tusk without staining the filler.

I'm thinking white Bondo/Auto Body Putty? :confused:

Any other suggestion's would be appreciated. Thanks and best reagrds to all.

Mark T.
 
Use glue. :D

Maybe test it on some chicken bones first.

Dunno. But I'll say BTTT, cuz I don't know nuthin' :)
 
Find a source for dental adhesive. Most respond to uv light to cure / set and it should work great on the bone/tooth material you have.

Neko2
 
I dunno much about boar's tusks, but ivory workers use plain ol superglue, and to make the repair seemless they mix in ivory dust from sanding. Dunno if something similar couldnt be done with your tusks. :confused:
 
I have this cool magazine article with the different types of glue and how they react. Basically, what you don't want in this situation is a glue that will expand - such as polyurethane glue or JB weld. (I think the bondo you're speaking of is more like a thick epoxy, right?)

Superglue would be fine, but it's not very impact-resistant. A 2-part epoxy would mix well with white dust for a strong glue-up.

From your comments, I assume you'll be gluing up sections (rather than halves)...? If so, does the inside need to be clean-n-clear as well?
 
good. IF the tusk is hollow, you might pack some modelling putty or expoxy putty inside it as well.

Keith
 
[
QUOTE=Daniel Koster]I have this cool magazine article with the different types of glue and how they react. Basically, what you don't want in this situation is a glue that will expand - such as polyurethane glue or JB weld. (I think the bondo you're speaking of is more like a thick epoxy, right?)

Superglue would be fine, but it's not very impact-resistant. A 2-part epoxy would mix well with white dust for a strong glue-up.

From your comments, I assume you'll be gluing up sections (rather than halves)...? If so, does the inside need to be clean-n-clear as well?
[/QUOTE]


Dan
Actually, they are in halves and some of them don't fit together perfectly. Thats why I would need the glue/epoxy to fill in those gaps too.
The inside doesn't matter. I was going to fill it up solid anyway.

That brings up another question. What should I use for that?
I was thinking Plaster of Paris. Do they still make that?
Dan, As you said above, I don't want something that will expand.
Ferrous suggested modeling or epoxy putty.
My idea was to find something that I could mix up into a "real runny mix" and then pour it into the tusk. After awhile it would solidify.
Does that make sense :confused:

BTW
Thanks for all of the great suggestions guys.

Mark T.
 
Wondering if something like Brownell's Acraglass might be the ticket, again, with some coloring added, same as you would do with the superglue. It's meant to fill in gaps, used for glass bedding rifle stocks. Gives an extremely strong and durable bond too.
 
How big are we talking, here? (diameter, length, etc.)
 
I usually really like polyurethane glue but agree with Dan. It requires very careful clamping to keep the glue from pushing the pieces apart while expanding. This might be a bad idea, but what about silicone adhesive/caulk? I generally don't like it because it doesn't have much muscle, but it does handle irregular surfaces and gaps pretty well. Given the rather low strength, it would be very bad if this is for a knife handle you plan to use, but would this be good for a primarily decorative piece?
 
Dan

They are from 3" to approx. 6" long and 1/2" - 3/4" dia.

Maybe I'm "over thinking" this whole thing guys. These aren't going to be used for anything stressful like a knife handle. My plan was to use them in a design I've come up with for a khukuri stand. All they are going to do is sit there, support a khukuri and look pretty :D .

FallingKnife had a good idea in just using some white silicone caulk but I don't think I'll be able to sand it smooth when it's dried. I don't believe it gets that hard.

etp777 also has a good suggestion with the Acraglass. I could get some white dye/colorant and mix it in. I'm sure it would be sandable.

what to do!! what to do!! :confused:

ADDENDUM:

I went out at lunch and found some 2-part epoxy that dries clear. I couldn't find any that dried white. I'm going to buy some RIT white dye and try that. I'll let you know how all of this turns out

and once again, thanks for all your great suggestions guys. They are ALL good.

:) Mark T.
 
There's a 'epoxy' style (2-component) "plastic mender"
that one of the adhesives companies sell alongside their epoxy.

This solidifies to acrylic plastic--
pretty stinky the first hour or so.

Also,

From the fingernail supplies aisle
look for a powder & it's associated liquid.
It's acrylic powder & solvent
used to make/fill gaps around fake fingernails.
 
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