Overcompensating -TOPS Lil' Roughneck

Shorttime

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Oct 16, 2011
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I wanted a backup fixed blade, and I wanted it to be plenty sturdy, but small enough to carry easily. The idea was to have a knife that I feel confident in using for non-knife things, if it was needed. Although specialty tools exist for prying and hammering, knives are more fun. :D

I looked at the usual suggestions from ESEE, Boker, Becker, and high-end things like the Game Warden.

But in the end, they were all pretty much the same. I know that steel quality and heat treat are important, but part of me simply wants a big chunk of sharpened steel.



TOPS is quite happy to provide one, in the Lil' Roughneck. Say what you want about their marketing (I think it's a little goofy, too), their designs are mostly solid.

The spine is 3/8" thick, and the blade is ground high, and flat.

Here is a side view, next to my Nano, and Mini-Recon.



It push-cuts paper right out of the box, and although I think it weighs close to two pounds, my work boots weigh more. I don't mind.

I haven't tried to cut apart a car or pry open a door with it, so I can't really judge it's function, but the weight is confidence inspiring.

Some here will say that this is an example of form triumphing over function, and I agree, to an extent. It's as gonzo as a Jeep with tank treads.

But the role it fills for me is "whatever tool I have is the one I'm going to use". I don't plan on having to self-extract from a car or a building, but I feel good about it's ability to handle those things.

If I ever do have to cut, pry, or hammer, my way out of something, I'll let you knife knuts know how it does!
 
That thing is ridiculous! But, strangely, I want one....
 
I started giggling when I saw that. Thats the thickness of a full size Busse chopper, or a authentic khukuri... In a pocket sized EDC. lol.

In theory, I would bet that thing performs like a BK2. The thickness and grind are proportionally larger/higher. Give it a solid lanyard, and you could kind of swing it like a flail while aiming it with a light grip on the end of the handle. I'll bet it would chop great :D



PS: Solid is definitely the word to describe that design...
 
My reaction...

"3/16? That's the same as an Izu-OHMYGOSHTHATS3/8NOT3/16DEARSWEETJESUS!!!"
 
It'll bind up in material as you cut through it.
It's too thick for anything but a kukri.

So why do I suddenly want one all of a sudden?!?!?!? :eek:
 
TOP's make a good blade. Enjoy it & let us know how it works out for you.
 
Sure will, LG!

I had a Spyderco Calypso, Jr. a couple years ago, and it felt... delicate. I realized that I was far too much of a knuckle-dragging goon for such a slicey knife.

The way these things work for me, is that I have to go waaaay out to the very end of each side of the spectrum. I had a very thin blade in the Clipit, now I have a bar of sharpened steel.

I think I'll carry this much longer than the Calypso (it might still be in a box, somewhere...), and it is intended as a backup, anyway. I'm thinking that I'll be able to find something a little less over the top for EDC, now.
 
Thats just disgusting, but out of curiosity how thick is it behind the edge?

Never thought to look until you asked. The stock is 3/32" behind the secondary bevel.

The master bevels are 1" wide, and flat ground, not concave.

Just by eyeballing it, the secondary bevel is maybe 30 degrees on each side, but I'm not very good at estimating bevel angles.

The master bevels are maybe 22 degrees (?). Again, just a guess.

I'm sure Stabman is right: it will bind up after it goes in about 1/2" or so. But then you just thump on the spine a little, and it should work just fine. :D
 
Hey- there is nothing wrong with carrying something like that. Man- that Is Thick but you'll be so glad you bought it once you need to pry or Knock Down or Thru something. Smart buy IMO.
 
:D

Once again, I'm very happy.

With a little tinkering, I was able to remove the spring clip from the sheath.

I've been carrying fixed blades in my pocket for a while now, thanks to a trick that I think I saw here.

Most kydex sheaths have at least one hole at the bottom, which will accept bead chain.

By looping a short length of bead chain through that hole, and then through a nearby belt loop, you can get the knife to hang, tip-up, in your pocket.

To draw it, you reach into your pocket, grab the handle, and pull the whole thing out. Holding on to the sheath with your other hand allows you to draw the knife, and the bead chain keeps the sheath secure while you work.

I was amazed that this chunk of steel doesn't print when I'm standing, and my shirt tails cover it when I sit down.

I'm carrying it as my primary knife today. If they allowed fixed blades at work, I could sell off everything else.....

....No.
 
Your ruining my fun Shorttime, I want to make fun of that knife but you beat me to it!

I have to ask you this though, could you try to cut a very thick piece of corrugated cardboard and report back on how that works :rolleyes:. And in case of a zombie apocalypse would you describe the use of that knife as a weapon against zombies as a blunt instrument or bladed? As I imagine you be bashing in heads with blade and not stabbing. As a side note I've head these work good for picking Prius's out of your trucks grill have you had to use it for that yet?

Hmm it seems there was still a little bit left in me to make fun of it. But in all seriousness enjoy your new knife, and as someone else stated I don't think you need to worry about people messing up your knife if you let them borrow it.
 
It's just ridiculous. But I love it.

Me too, I'm getting one.

My medium to large knives just seem to sit around and don't see any day light. These little gems, well I just can't put them down. I also have the Tops mini eagle and the Shadow Teck mini spear point great EDCers.
 
Never thought to look until you asked. The stock is 3/32" behind the secondary bevel.

The master bevels are 1" wide, and flat ground, not concave.

Just by eyeballing it, the secondary bevel is maybe 30 degrees on each side, but I'm not very good at estimating bevel angles.

The master bevels are maybe 22 degrees (?). Again, just a guess.
sounds like an 8 degree primary grind, with the 1" width, 3/8 spine, and 3/32 edge thickness.

try cutting an apple or onion.
 
Seems a bit flimsy to me. Something along the lines of an inch thick of S7 seems to me to be the most suitable combination of thickness and materials for a cutting instrument.
 
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