I feel the comments are right!
If the recurve is not ground correctly and the cusrve is for looks not performance (to thick, to much curve to look cool) they are not much different than most grinds.
We all upgrade from time to time to make our products better.
IMHO A recurve also has to be engineered right on the curve for the cutting edge to work right.
Here's what I have found in the past 6 months from user feedback ect and upgrading my grinds.
I have went to a much thinner grind on my edges. I wont say what I do but I have found that the recurve works MUCH better with a thinner edge. Also I have changed from a flat grind to a LARGE hollow grind. I use a 14 inch wheel.
This make the blades on smaller knives 2-6 inchs cut better and more precise. I use the 14 inch wheel because I like the strength of a semi flat grind. So I was looking for the point that the blade would preform better and still maintain strength.
Many recurves are added to knives for LOOKS.
I refuse in this case. They have to preform better or its just an embellishment IMHO.
As for sharpening the process I am using is easy to sharpen now . I just use a spydy white stick and leather strop to make the blade push cuts newspaper.
Thicker edges will hold an edge longer BUT the cutting performance goes down 50 percent or more when doing small task cutting.
After many tests from my shop and customers I have changed my way of thinking. Cutting performance is first. An edge can be sharpened. If the edge chips out from extreme use (abuse in my book) I put a new edge on the blade. If the knife is used for the purpose intended there should not be chipping.
As for tantos IMHO the modified tanto is still the best for small blades. The chisel
is great for big knives that you want to pry with ect.
BUT I also feel that a folding knife is not a pry bar! So the modified tanto (that cuts with ease) is best in a folder unless you want a tank.
Just my .02 cents worth!
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[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 02-20-2001).]