If we're talking about physical strength of the blade, as in clamping the tip in a vise and then attempting to pry it over and break it, the profile is only one part of the total.
I would put the alloy and temper first in line. It's the source of most of the steel's strength, and how well it puts up with pressure, yield, etc. Next would be profile, it determines the amount of cross sectional area and density, where it tapers, etc. Next would be how far up the grind line is finished. A low swedge grind vs flat, for instance.
The problem is there's good combinations of the extremes - which makes the overall choice of a blade difficult. The blade maker who's well versed in choosing the right combinations can make what appears to be a weak blade - that is impossible to break by hand. And we've see some "survival" blades literally snap off at the handle because the combination was horrible. The knife was junk.
About all we can do is express our preferences, and by doing that, we create genres of styles, as it works out. The swedge ground tanto is considered strong and likely break free, a flat ground, thin clip point likely to snap the tip. But there's no guarantee of either. Take the clip a step further, it's a fillet. Those are equally hard to break, but designed to bend. In fact, there is a school of thought that survival blades should be thin. A thin, flexible blade is easier to sharpen, weighs less which makes it more prone to carry, and bends, which keeps it in service rather than being destroyed and endangering the user. It then resembles the actual knives used in the 17-1800's to pioneer the wilderness.
I don't put much into the profile being the most important factor. I has it's major impact on the usefulness of the edge and how it cuts when shaped certain ways. Not as much with overall strength.
