Own edge Pro, looking into KO Work Sharp

Joined
Dec 17, 2012
Messages
161
So I've had my Edge Pro for over 4yrs now. I also have the Atoma 140 plate for heavy work, along with a full set of Chosera stones (recently upgraded to the thicker versions, very nice!). I've sharpened literally hundreds of knives with my Edge pro over the years, and I get fantastic results. I use the drill stop collar and quick change spring, and typically finish my knives on a Stropman strop. And I just recently got the small knife attachment for it. I don't plan on ever getting rid of my Edge Pro as I've gotten quite good with it. Just this past year I finally tested my results on hair and found that I've been able to get hair whittling edges on most of my knives.

But recently I've been using my Becker BK9 a lot out in the woods, and have been touching it up frequently because I like to keep my edges blazing sharp. Most of the time my strop will bring the edge back just fine, but sometimes I have to run it on the Edge Pro. I also have a Sharpmaker with the additional UF rods that I like to use on my pocket knives for quick touch ups which works really well.

Recently I've been thinking about picking up the Ken Onion Work Sharp for faster sharpening on my bigger knives such as my BK9. I never look forward to sharpening that beast on the edge pro, even though the results turn out really well. The work sharp looks like it would be perfect for knives like my BK9 that I don't need hair whittling sharp, but still like having a nice edge on. Plus this will give me the option of convex edges, something I don't do with the edge pro. I really like the idea of how quickly it can put a solid working edge on a knife, and think it would be a good addition to the units I already have and use. I've also been eyeing the blade grinding attachment, which looks like a nice addition to that system.

So what do you guys think? Am I crazy for wanting the Work Sharp when I already have a nice Edge Pro set-up? If I do buy the WSKO I plan on practicing and using it stock to see how I like it first, and if it works well I will more than likely buy the blade grinding attachment for it.
 
I'm a long time user and huge fan of the WSKO. I also have the Blade Grinding Attachment, although I tend to use the original unit more. I think you would love it for your larger knives as well as for smaller ones and other grinding tasks (smoothing a sharp tang or spine, etc.). It is a versatile and quality tool. And it's capable of much better than a "working edge"---sometimes I can put a hair splitting edge on a knife right off the WSKO, and if not, some final tweaking with the Sharpmaker UF rods and a strop (I like compound on denim) will usually do the trick.

Take the plunge and I bet you'll be glad you did.

Andrew
 
So what do you guys think? Am I crazy for wanting the Work Sharp when I already have a nice Edge Pro set-up?

Nope,,, both will get you sharp, but two entirely different ways, which I think can complement each other. Not crazy at all. :thumbup:
 
I love the ko work sharp, I have the grinding attachment for it as well...I use the blade grinding attachment 99.999% of the time, as it gives me much better results. I can get a edge that'll cut a hanging hair and after using it for a couple weeks will still whittle hair. Hit the strop a few times and it's back to the original insanely sharp edge.


Here's my 9 I sharpened using it.

https://youtu.be/PCuRvQsQo5c
 
Another vote for the work sharp, have the original and the Ken onion with BGA, I use the BGA the most, also have a KME that I really like and use on my EDC
 
I have both. I use the EP for all my folders. I bought the KO to deal with all the kitchen knives Mrs. Iuke constantly abuses. This saves me valuable time to shop for more folders:)
The KO is a great tool and would make a nice addition to your sharpening battery.
 
Picked up the KO Work Sharp from my local sporting goods store, it was on sale and matched the lowest price I could find it for online :) Already ran an old kitchen knife through it using only two of the belts and the knife easily lazers through phone book paper, and thats straight off the machine without stropping or the 6000 belt! Very impressed indeed. Wasn't expecting to get that good of results on the first knife, even with all my previous sharpening experience. New systems always have a learning curve, but these results speak for themselves.

Think I'll be ordering the BGA next week. For those of you that own the machine and or BGA, any extra belts or other accessories I should get?
 
Picked up the KO Work Sharp from my local sporting goods store, it was on sale and matched the lowest price I could find it for online :) Already ran an old kitchen knife through it using only two of the belts and the knife easily lazers through phone book paper, and thats straight off the machine without stropping or the 6000 belt! Very impressed indeed. Wasn't expecting to get that good of results on the first knife, even with all my previous sharpening experience. New systems always have a learning curve, but these results speak for themselves.

Think I'll be ordering the BGA next week. For those of you that own the machine and or BGA, any extra belts or other accessories I should get?
Get the new stropping belts and some spare belts...I haven't used any of the after market belts as I'm getting great edges with the stock belts...I may eventually buy some of the ones available to bring the progression in grits closer together...but right now I use 3 sets of stock belts when I want a near prefect mirror finish...I first use a newer belt, followed by a used belt, and followed by a really warn belt of each grit...as the belts wear they get finer, so it brings my gap in grits closer together.
 
If you buy the KO with blade grinder, I have a feeling you will want to use the EP less and less. That was my experience anyway.
 
So now that I have the KO Work Sharp, should I invest in the blade grinding attachment? Just wondering if the cost is worth it. Do you find it gives better results? Easier to maintain your angle? I have been sharpening for many years, only thing I haven't tried yet is freehanding with bench stones. I do lots of stropping, so I'm pretty comfortable holding a consistent angle.

Just blasted through an entire set of kitchen knives on the WS in a little over an hour. It was just one of the cheap sets that come with the block, but the knives came out very sharp in a very short amount of time. Now that I've sharpened around 20 or so knives, I've noticed that it can be tricky at times trying to keep your angle on the guides depending on the height of the knife. Starting to think the BGA may actually be easier for me to keep a constant angle on.
 
The BGA has many fans and you would probably enjoy trying it. But before deciding if you need it right now you might want to try using the regular WSKO freehand without the guides. A lot of users, myself included, think that's the way to go.

Andrew
 
So now that I have the KO Work Sharp, should I invest in the blade grinding attachment?

Yes.

Just wondering if the cost is worth it.

Yes, definitely imo.

Do you find it gives better results?

Yes, I never got on with the guides and used the KO freehand. The blade grinder makes freehand even easier.

Easier to maintain your angle?

Yes, just dial in the angle you want and hold the blade level.
 
The BGA has many fans and you would probably enjoy trying it. But before deciding if you need it right now you might want to try using the regular WSKO freehand without the guides. A lot of users, myself included, think that's the way to go.

Andrew

I'll probably give that a shot, although I think the BGA will be the best option for freehand sharpening. An added bonus will be the 90 degree side, which should work well for the spine on a few of my fixed blades. For those of you that have the BGA, would the 90 degree side work for grinding the edge down on a badly damaged edge? As in grinding the actual edge on the 90 degree side for fast material removal? I've come across knives in terrible shape that I've sharpened for people in the past(huge chips etc), and thought that may be easier to try to repair the edge that way first, then grind a new bevel and edge angle after the edge is smoothed back out. I've also seen some terrible edges where the person sharpened at an extermely low angle creating a super wide bevel. Thought in those cases I could work the edge back at 90 degrees, then grind a new, proper angle on that wouldn't be so long and thin. I've obviously never tried any of that before, so I was just wondering if that would be the method for repairing such disasters. Since I sharpen lots of knives for friends, family, and coworkers, I see lots of damaged knives in my time lol.
 
The bga is 100% worth it, it's all I use and get better edges with it. The standard unit will get you sharp, but the bga will get you insanely sharp knives. Or as others have said horrifyingly sharp. Lol
 
The BGA has many fans and you would probably enjoy trying it. But before deciding if you need it right now you might want to try using the regular WSKO freehand without the guides. A lot of users, myself included, think that's the way to go.

Andrew

You've used the BGA and gone back to using the standard system? If so, can I ask why?
 
The BGA has many fans and you would probably enjoy trying it. But before deciding if you need it right now you might want to try using the regular WSKO freehand without the guides. A lot of users, myself included, think that's the way to go.

Andrew
I'm interested to know the same, I actually don't like the standard unit...The set angle aren't true and vary depending on blade thickness, it always grinds a high convex, doesn't work with thumb studs, and do much more that is fixed using the bga.
 
You've used the BGA and gone back to using the standard system? If so, can I ask why?

Well, not exactly. I actually have 2 units set up, side by side, a regular WSKO and a WSKO with the BGA installed. I use them both, sometimes even on the same knife.

I currently use the regular unit more for a couple of reasons. The first is that I'm simply more practiced with the regular unit. I started using the original WS soon after it came out, and with the KO model I was lucky enough to get to do some testing with a proto, so I guess I've been using it since even before it came out. The other reason is that on some small knives I've had problems with the tips and/or the heels on the BGA. As to the heels, I had a hard time getting even bevels in that area with a couple of small traditional folders. I actually found that on the small trads I often had the best results on the heels using the regular KO with Norax belts in the original 1/2" width.

I have found the BGA to be great on larger knives, including kitchen knives, and it has made quick work of sharpening these up for family and friends. But my personal collection is mainly small traditional folders, so that very much shapes how I view any sharpener.

All that said, I plan to continue using and experimenting with both and, who knows, I may gravitate to the BGA over time.

Andrew
 
Hmm interesting, I've found the opposite for me...I find it easier to hit the area near the hilt and to keep a very pointy tip with the bga..

I also find it easier to match factory grinds with the bga. That doesn't matter to me as I typically reprofile but occasionally I'll sharpen for someone who insists on keeping the factory edge and just wants it cleaned up.

Like this one, the guy wanted to keep the factory angle, but wanted it cleaned up.

BEFORE:
yunjVRo.jpg


AFTER:
Evmvwmk.jpg
lh75xrl.jpg


I wouldn't been able to do that using the standard unit with the guides..the bevel would've been ground into a more pronounced convex.
 
Last edited:
Well, not exactly. I actually have 2 units set up, side by side, a regular WSKO and a WSKO with the BGA installed. I use them both, sometimes even on the same knife.

I currently use the regular unit more for a couple of reasons. The first is that I'm simply more practiced with the regular unit. I started using the original WS soon after it came out, and with the KO model I was lucky enough to get to do some testing with a proto, so I guess I've been using it since even before it came out. The other reason is that on some small knives I've had problems with the tips and/or the heels on the BGA. As to the heels, I had a hard time getting even bevels in that area with a couple of small traditional folders. I actually found that on the small trads I often had the best results on the heels using the regular KO with Norax belts in the original 1/2" width.

I have found the BGA to be great on larger knives, including kitchen knives, and it has made quick work of sharpening these up for family and friends. But my personal collection is mainly small traditional folders, so that very much shapes how I view any sharpener.

All that said, I plan to continue using and experimenting with both and, who knows, I may gravitate to the BGA over time.

Andrew

Regarding the problem with the heel, is this because the wider belt is too flexible at the edges for precise grinding? If so, have you tried the stiff Norax belts?
 
Back
Top