Pacific Salt

Cliff Stamp

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Oct 5, 1998
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This is essentially an Endura, a well known Spyderco pattern, with H1 steel, which is totally resistant to corrosion in any normal enviroment. The Endura is well known and this knife has been reviewed in detail and is generally very well respected for a FRN folder. It has a solid level of cutting ability and versatility with a decently secure and ergonomic grip. The back lock is both strong and secure and the only real issue is white knuckling so take care to evalute normal grips used and check the lock stability in that orientation.


Basically compared to something like the Paramiliary, the Pacific Salt's more rounded tip profile gives you more prying strength for things like opening pain cans and wood working. The trade off for this is point penetration, pressing both knives into a phone book for example the Salt only gets about half the raw penetration of the Paramiliary. There are also issues with precision point work like coring vegetables, trying to remove a spliter or similar.

The biggest two issues with the steel are corrosion resistance and edge retention. The corrosion resistance was well covered by frank k, who basically showed that the steel is pretty much immune to rust and that it isn't a concern. In regards to edge retention Frank also compared H1 vs VG-10 and found a significant difference on cardboard. The steel is softer and will wear faster.

The upside of this is that it does respond well to honing, Carl has talked about this on rec.knives and that the steel even though is soft, doesn't have much of the problem that some soft steels have which is that they can develop significant burrs which prevent a high level of sharpness. The steel's level of hardness seems well matched by its machinability.

I checked the edge retention on used carpet and found in agreement with Frank that there is a pretty big difference between H1 vs S30V. This can actually be compensated by using a very coarse finish on the H1 to enhance the cutting ability and edge retention for slicing, and of course by using a serrated version which will give very high edge retention.

The other large difference is that H1 is fairly flexible, which is to be expected given the lower hardness, and thus this knife tends to work well in really hard work which could chip or break some of the harder stainless blades. The ease of machining also enhances this type of use because it allows quick repairing of an edge which was heavily blunted from digging in rocky soil for example.

Ref :

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/pacific_salt.html

-Cliff
 
H1 work hardens but during honing you are not plastically deforming the metal on the edge but removing it by abrasion so I don't follow that, and have not seen it in use. However if you steel an edge you are deforming it and the H1 could benefit from work hardening. An interesting comparison would be use a Salt and similar knife in VG-10 on cardboard, compare the edge retention with stock edges, after resharpening and then use a steel and see how it effects them.

-Cliff
 
Chris Mapp said:
Fairly flexible, eh? Hmm..maybe an H1 filet isn't too bad of an idea then..
I brought this up a few times after trying a Salt and got no reply. It makes perfect sense. Perhaps there is something in the makeup of H1 that doesn't allow it a great deal of ductility even though it's soft or maybe I've had too much eggnog and don't know what the hell I'm talking about. I'd like to see a H1 filet knife because I'm a saltwater fisherman and rust has allows been a problem for me even though I do take good care of my knives.
 
A Kershaw with 420J2, a Cold Steel in Carbon V, and a Schrade Uncle Henry Steelhead with whatever mystery steel that Schrade used. They all have held up fairly well, the Kershaw most of all, but I always wind up with spotting. The coated Cold Steel doesn't do this but it's edge tends to degrade very quickly (rust?) and requires honing on fine rods after each trip. The spots are easy enough to remove but it's still more work than I'd have to do if I had a filet in H1. I usually wash the blades in warm soapy water, rinse, dry and then apply a thin layer of mineral oil for storage.
 
For a really harsh enviroment, the high carbon stainless don't tend to do well (ATS-34) and H1 would seem to be attractive in the Catcherman for example. Phil Wilson makes fillets in AISI 420HC you might want to drop him an email as well.

-Cliff
 
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