Paddle Carving

[P. McKinley]

Several years ago I did a photo tutorial of how I carve canoe paddles. I thought this might be appropriate for this forum.

First, the tools of the trade:

I use a powerful jigsaw to cut paddle blanks as I have more control and there is less blade-wander then with a band-saw.

Microplane rasps, steel rasps, files, 4-in-1's, block planes (standard and low-angle):

I use the Microplane half-round rasp secured in handmade "grips" using wingnuts.

Bench chisels and a V-gouge.

C-clamps and protective wood blocks:

Sanding blocks and contour sanding "sponges":

Diamond stone, 800 and 400 grit waterstones

Honing guides

Scary sharp!! 8|

Lay out the templates and snap a ckalk line to make centerlines:

Outlines traces and ready to cut. Yes, I know the paddle-shaft on the left is off-center. This was corrected:

Paddle 'blanks" cut, blades:

Grips:

Mark centerline:

Centerline marked, ready to remove stock from blade:

Stock removed from blades using a power planer:

Paddle securely clamped to workbench with blade fully accessable. Note: be sure to use a protective piece of wood between clamp and paddle:

Now move on to a block plane and spoke shave to remove remainder of stock from blade. Note: I make sure to stay 1/8 inch away from centerline until final shaping is done:

Major stock removed, now use rasp to shape shoulders of the blade:

Shoulders shaped, now ready for final shaping with fine rasps and files:

Now, move on to the grip. I use the Microplane rasp to create a divot on either end of the "lower grip" to allow the spoke shave to "bite" the wood. Remove stock to within 1/8 inch of either side of the centerline. Work carefully until this surface is level, flat and smooth.

Alternatively, I often extend the shaft into the lower grip using a bench chisel to remove stock. This is done on both sides:

Sometimes I get a bit fancy!! This will be cleaned up considerably.

to be continued......

 

[P. McKinley]

I started the grip before I realized I should have been documenting the process with photos but, I didn't get to far along before I began shooting, so...........

The center-line has been extended around the sides and top if the grip and I began to remove wood to form a symmetric oval:

I want the high-point of the oval to be bisected by a line extended from the two widest points of the grip. I will slowly, carefully remove wood working towards that center point and down almost to the center-line.

My tools for this process are the Microplane rasp and a coarse bastard file:

For this particular paddle I wanted to shape the grip with a "finger ledge" for my fingers to wrap around providing a secure grip:

Once the finger ledge has been roughed-in, I will continue smoothing-out the shape making sure there are no pronounced ridges and the symmetry is perfect on all opposing surfaces. I will continue this process later with a fine tooth file and later sandpaper:

Mind you, this grip has a little different side profile than the ones I normally make:
Another one I'm working on:

An older paddle:

This paddle:

I'm now going to move on to the "lower grip" where I will position two medallions of swordfish sword on either side of the paddle and trace the outline on a perfectly flat and smooth surface:

I am now making "stop cuts" with a VERY sharp chisel just inside the outline. I will then remove the wood with the chisel to the depth needed to make a perfect inlay for the 1/4 inch sides of the medallions, and carefully clean up the outline to allow a clean, tight fit.:

Inlay depression ready:

the depression surface should be level and smooth:

Test-fitting the medallions:

To be continued........

 

[P. McKinley]

I seem to have lost the photos detailing how I carve the shaft......... sorry!!
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Four coats of spar varnish on the blade, 3 coats of boiled linseed oil on the shaft and grip. The Cherry wood will oxidize over time and become a much darker, richer red and set off the swordfish sword medallion quite nicely. The Wenge' scales on the grip are insanely hard and will provide a fine, smooth surface for my hands over the years of use this paddle will give me.

And so the new paddle takes it's rightful place on the rack:

 

[Fonly]

amazing work blue,

how are you making out these days? haven't talk in a long old time, forget the first forum we spoke on...

 

[Duzzy]

Those look exceptional. I would love to hold one in person so I could get a feel for their character.

 

[dryhands]

Beautiful, i'd be interested in how you got into paddle making.

 

[Triq]

I would be terrified to loose any of those in the river. Beautifull work brother!

 

[bikermikearchery]

I always appreciate fine craftsmanship. Thanks for posting.
Mike

 

[Triq]

While not nearly of the calibur of the OP's some of you may find this interesting. http://youtu.be/uqa9wriL_Wg