Paddling the Vaal River - South Africa

[Aubrey]

When my sons were born, paddling took a back seat to activities they could enjoy with me. Touring the African bush in our Landy and snorkelling on some tame reefs but my Coleman scanoe was always gathering dust in the garage.

This year my troops are turning 14 and 17 years old so I though just about time to get paddling again.

We chose to do the Vaal River from just below the Vaaldam wall and as far as we could go in 3 days (2 nights) My dad, 73 years old last December drove us there in the Landy and this is the arrival.

The river was low as no water was being let out but that made some rapids more hectic with exposed rocks and the weirs … did I mention the weirs ……… portage on each one …. 5 in total in 3 days.

Here we are ….L2R ……. Me, Ryan and Marcel.

Packed the canoe and we were heavy …… On my hip I had a Bill Siegle knife (Thank you William.M) and a Horton A2 necker around my neck.

Making sure all is clipped in and strapped down …… here you can see my small PSK on my belt ...... sorry, I favor black but it is there Promise The hat is a Real Deal and more on that one later .....

 

[fmajor007]

Looks like it was a great time out with the boys - well done Dad! Quite a load in the canoe, but better to have "it" and not need "it" than to need "it" and not have "it"!!!

 

[Aubrey]

We set off with an idea to do about 7 km and camp ……. All still fresh and smiling here.

We made good time and managed to get to 7km where there was a weir ……. So unpack and portage about 1/3 of a mile. Getting back in I said we now look for a camp spot ….. so bad decision, not all was strapped down again.

We approached the Chute ….. a 50m wide river that closes in to about 8m’s. No exposed rocks but 3 big standing waves at the bottom. We pulled over and I went through the safety briefing again. Feet down river when overboard, stay away downstream from canoe if tipped. Time to check PFD’s and helmets ……. Oh, I did mention our kit wasn’t all strapped down …….Here is the entrance to the Chute ….

I packed the cell and camera in the Otter box and we hit the rapids. Not very long …maybe 40 m but the last standing wave we hit bow first and flooded.

All our kit was washed out ….most of it but my men kept their heads, followed instructions quickly and we laughed so much recovering the kit, the sun was setting by the time we had most everything. Total loss, one shoe for me and one shoe for Ryan. We paddled another 1km and pulled out on a sand island ….. kids unpacked whilst I started a fire with my PSK fire steel and a little cotton ball. It was nippy with the wind blowing but when the last kit was on land, the big smiles said the fire was a winner.

Here is our campsite towards the river view …

And our kit …..

My sleeping bag was wet so a long cold night ahead. I brough in some steaks and boerewors (sausage) and we had a man meal ….just meat with some energy drink. We used Hennesee hammocks and they worked great with a sleeping pad in …… but with just a warm jacket …… I was happy to see the sunrise.

Here is just at sunset …..

 

[Codger_64]

Nice trip. That looks like one of the old style Coleman canoes. I miss mine. They have been out of production here for quite a few years. And yes, there is little rise or volume in the bow which makes it a water scoop in standing waves. More than once I enjoyed surprising a bowman with a lapfull of cold water!

I am suspecting that you will be looking for watertight bags for more of your gear now. I hate wet sleeping bags with a passion. I picked up a pair of 40L watertight bags this past fall, as much for rain and bilge water protection as for the possibility of an upset. A big plus is the air trapped inside makes recovery much easier if you do swamp. I allow them to float free to make recovery of the canoe itself easier and the bright yellow color is easy to spot downstream. They aren't as expensive as they were back in the '80's when I first began using them. Mine are the Seal Line brand and are well made with heavy material.

 

[Aubrey]

Hi Codger_64 ...top of the list is replacing the Falcon II and related kit ...all sorted, ordered and paid. The next one is the dry bags ....... I found that a tether with 6 ft cord is fine to dump them but not loose them. Will surely be buying a load of that prior to the trip.

That Coleman has been around and all dinged up but still going strong!! I would love a Kevlar canoe though but in Africa .....on par with a M3 BMW in price

 

[Codger_64]

Not a thing in the world wrong with the old Colemans. What they lack in beauty and glide they make up for in toughness and stability, not to mention load capacity. I bought mine in the late '70's-early '80's and put it through a lot. I never should have sold it but I did in the mid '90's.

I shy away from tethers. I either tie gear in real tight or let it float free. I've seen a few people get hung up on unreeved lines and it is a danger. Better to have to paddle after loose bags than to have someone entangled in a loose line. But to each his own I say.

I enjoyed being invited along on your trip. I am sure you three had a blast. I can hardly wait for our weather here to warm up a bit so I can get back out on the river. It looks a bit like yours.

 

[Aubrey]

We woke up to coffee and rusks ….. we plastered on sunblock as it was hot and sunny …… Here Ryan is preparing for the first rapids of the day …….

The rapids were a non event ….. we had to push over some rocks ….here Marcel is adding his bit …..

I heard another rapid ahead so pulled over and walked it ….many exposed rocks and no channel open to paddle so we set of ….. This shot 2 hours after to cover 50 m ….

We got stuck, hydraulics caught the canoe against a rock …… we did some rope work and recovery …… it was hectic but we had a load of laughs and fun doing this ….. I fell down twice in the rapid, lost my hat but the Oakley’s stayed put.

We were in a standing river with zero flow .. and a 2mph head wind …… we rowed 50min and rested 10min. We pulled over at about 1400 at a deserted holiday home …… made a quick lunch of noodles and some salami ……

Shortly after that we hit another weir …… portage ……. Here walking back for the last load ……. About ½ a mile long carry.

 

[chickenplucker]

Awesome looking trip Aubrey.. I read a book once about a guy that kayaked the entire length of the Nile and his runins with hippo's and croks. are there none of these in this river?

 

[Codger_64]

Oh, I always hate portages! Lucky for you that you had the young sherpas along! I tend to line tight rapids like that when I can. That is where heavy 1/2" braided nylon painter lines come in handy. But if the weather and water is warm, nothing wrong with wadeing the canoe through as long as everyone stays clear of the downstream end of things. Being caught between an immovable rock and a rushing canoe is no fun.

More pics? Don't hold back now!

 

[Knife Crazied]

Looks like you had a fun trip. I really enjoyed the ride along with you. :thumbup:

 

[Aubrey]

No crocs or hippo but about 250 miles further down ..,...it enters the empty spaces of the Northern Cape ....and there it is wild

There is also a guy that rowed the Zambezi with the same hippo/croc dangers ...who knows, maybe one day

 

[Aubrey]

We started setting up camp and I realized that somewhere in the rapids my Maxpedition bag with our GPS, sun block and insect repellent went AWOL. No one to blame but me ....I clipped it in but may have been distracted .... and missed the secure point!! Well, we paid for the lack of sunblock the next day but all was in good fun ......

The campsite was a deserted fisherman’s spot that he keeps in good standing. We had freeze dried food and more of the energy drinks. I called my dad and arranged for a midday pickup, 5km downstream and spot on time, I got his call to say he was at the take out point the next day. We set up the Hennesee hammocks and after 8 hours of rowing … sleep came easy !!

Sunrise was a joy to watch .….

Some fun and floating in the river as we had time …..

And this is our transport ……heavy but tough ….

Got home at about 1800 and a meal followed by a shower made me feel human again 

 

[upnorth]

Cool.:thumbup:

 

[Cutshaw]

I'm jealous! Beautiful country and it looks like it was a great trip!

 

[grunt soldier]

definitely a awesome trip. and it looks like you guys learned some lessons.

 

[baldtaco-II]

Excellent way to spend time.

 

[PayetteRucker]

Oh the places you can go between a composite canoe and one of the coolest rigged range rovers I think I've ever seen... I like your hammock setups.

 

[Aubrey]

Gents, thanx for the kind words. When my kids were 6 .... I made both a promise. I will die without a cent on my name for you .....but I will leave you a load of memories ....... every trip we plan, their friends all want to go with. I did that once and it just didn't work ....they had their own teenage missions and was no fun for the cook/driver/coach/tour guide/financier/dad. So now we do solo ...... they do trips with their friends when they want to.

Lessons learned ..........

Thank you for the dry bag suggestions ... orderdered 6 and that is 4 x 25l and 2 x 40l bags.

Took a small 8 inch folding saw with and between that and the Siegle needed no more. Axe won't go with again.

The CS shovel is a winner ....... good for potty duty and clearing camp both as a spade and a slasher.

The Bill Siegle in 5160 is a winner with a Tuff cloth. Fitted into a survival sheath with a fire steel and sharpener on it ........ saved our bacon when all was wet.

Horton necker in A2 was at hand and yes, with ropes and water .....you need access to a super sharp knife at any time. The A2 didn't rust even with both the Siegle and Horton wet for 10 hrs a day ....Tuiff Cloth works.

No more back packs or coolers .....just dry bags.

Otter box worked great Camera and cell stayed dry and we didn't have a worry about that part at least.

Food ....more light sealed stuff and less bulky tins and heavy stuff. More trail mix ...more high energy bars

Hammocks worked great ....Hennesee and they are perfect with a sleeping pad.

PSK on belt a must with the Siegle ....worked great and was used often .......

Zip lock bags ...all clothes were packed in individual zip lock bags ...worked a charm ........

 

[Aubrey]

Took a variety of torches ..... Surefire, Fenix and Streamlights ....... all got dunked and all got soaked ...... Streamlights were in PSK and another one on the Siegle so they stayed wet 10 hrs a day ........ Surefire would not switch on ....... Fenix would not switch on ....... Streamlights ......shook both and both worked. Stripped all on return ....only Streamlights were dry inside. Streamlights are the 2 x AAA and a 1 x AAA LED (All lights were LED's). I would never have expected that.

Headlamps ...used Petzl's and all 3 never missed a beat

Used the Snow Peak Ti cooking set ...... great kit. Light and efficent ......

Used a Gaz little camping stove ....floated in the river, got dunked and worked on first try ..... made ny Lumogaz ....... great piece of kit!
GSii cups worked great ....instant noodles ... pot and plate in one

 

[Codger_64]

It sounds like you are getting it all sorted! On the packs, the backpack is still a good deal if it will fit inside the drybags. I use a backpack inside one of mine to keep gear sorted, rather than having a bunch of loose gear in there that has to be sorted through to find what I need. It not only keeps the gear organized, but helps protect the gear from breakage and the bag from sharp objects. Of course the pack squishes down smaller than if I were hiking with it, mainly because I keep the food and cook gear, and the sleeping bag/tent/fly in seperate dry bags (and sorted in those in cheap stuff sacks).

I also have a lightweight aluminum heavy duty dry box, a military aircraft tech's radar test gear container. It is 100% waterproof with gasketry and lid clamps. I use it for keys, wallet, electronics, some snacks, maps and guides, small fishing kit, etc. and it is one of the few items I strap securely into the canoe. Pelican makes a plastic drybox, but it is a cheap immitation at best. The gasket is a very thin strip of poorly adheared foam. An old .30 cal ammo box would be a better choice, albeit heavier. My box is a 10" cube and I keep it within reach, bungeed to the thwart in front of me where I can access it as needed or take it with me when I climb out for a rest stop.

I note that you leave your paddles laying loose in the canoe when you get out, and I didn't see a spare. I've lost paddles that way when I or a paddling partner got in and rocked the canoe. Not a big deal, but I learned a trick with my Coleman. There is a gap between the bow/stern manboards and the hull that is perfect for jamming a paddle blade to secure it. I don't have those in my Old Town but I installed kayaker's paddle parks, bungee cords with hooks, under the inside gunnels front and rear. It is a great place to keep a spare paddle and keeps me from losing one when entering or exiting. They also work for "parking" fishing rods out of the way.

Once again, thanks for sharing your trip with us. My children are both grown now but the time we spent together in a canoe was well spent.