paint can forge question

M

Mungo Park

Joined
Jan 23, 2005
Messages
337
I have applied the "cement" over the insulation to seal it up, as per paint can forge instructions. The instructions do not tell what to do with the burner hole.
The photos do not show a big hole for the burner. Is the insulation exposed in the hole? Will the burner flame blow off some insulation causing lung damage? If I look at other forge photos of this style of forge they also have a small hole, so am I missing something. I guess I could wax or grease up the burner and place it in the hole and poure around it and remove the burner when it is dry?
Cheers Ron.
 
Mungo Park said:
I have applied the "cement" over the insulation to seal it up, as per paint can forge instructions. The instructions do not tell what to do with the burner hole.
The photos do not show a big hole for the burner. Is the insulation exposed in the hole? Will the burner flame blow off some insulation causing lung damage? If I look at other forge photos of this style of forge they also have a small hole, so am I missing something. I guess I could wax or grease up the burner and place it in the hole and poure around it and remove the burner when it is dry?
Cheers Ron.
Click to expand...

I drilled a hole and inserted a pipe fitting that would allow the torch tip to hold in positon. I used refractory cement to hold the pipe fitting. you need to make a hole in the blanket. The burner Chiro uses is for Mapp gas. (I think, that is what I am using).

I spread the satanite all over the inside. I also put some in the hole to seal the blanket, but not obstruct the hole. I will use ITC-100 over that.

Contact Darren Ellis, in this forum. He and Chiro are a wealth of information.
 
Mungo, my burner hole is just a bit bigger than the head of the TS4000 burner for propane/mapp (I use propane). After I drilled it and worked it out to the appropriate size, I just worked some Satanite into the hole with a little tool.
 
The torch head I bought said for MAPP only. Does it fit the propane bottle? How long does it take to heat up? Propane is 1/3 the cost of MAPP around here, I would like to use it. David
 
Which one did you get? I have a TS4000, which is the self-starting thingamajig and it says for MAPP or Propane. I've used it for both. With that head and my forge, with a brick blocking most of the back of the forge (and no ITC coating, Satanite and wool only), it gets hot quick. The inside starts glowing within a minute, and I start heating my blades right away. But, if your torch says MAPP only I'd believe it. I don't know what the differences are, but when it comes to pressurized gas, flames, etc I pretty much do what the manufacturer tells me to! :eek: With propane I think I'm probably limited still to blades no longer than 6", but I haven't tested that theory. I made a 1084 monster last weekend (not sure offhand what the blade size is) and I couldn't get the whole thing to critical. With a real burner and an extension on the forge it'd probably be a different story, but I'm fine with sub-5" blades, personally.
 
I have the same torch. It came with the mapp gas in a kit. I will read the booklet again. I thought it was mapp only, but I may be wrong.
 
I think at Lowe's when you see the torch head only it says for MAPP or Propane, but don't take my word on it. They probably just want to sell more MAPP, so they label it differntly when you buy it with the MAPP!
 
It looks like the TS4000 is for both. The propane torch I have is for propane only. The back of my forge is solid and I will finish the coating in a day or so. (I use about a day between coats) I will try it then. Thanks for the info, Steve. I still have not forgotten your tongs.
 
No problem on the tongs! I just laid the Satanite in about 3/32" thick, maybe 1/8" in some areas, and let it sit overnight, then fired it up the next day. I'll bet you I fired that thing up half a dozen times before it fully cured, though. Weird stuff!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top