Paint for my pocket clip

R

Ragnarok37

Joined
Dec 1, 2004
Messages
10
I carry a Spyderco Endura. I like how the black handle and black clip blend in with the black jeans that I normally wear. However, the paint on the pocket clip wears off easily and the bare metal stands out. Besides visibility, I'd also like to keep my knife well maintained and new looking, if I can.

I've tried repainting it with various brands of paint, but so far they all scrape off far faster than the original paint did. The first brand that everyone recommends to me is Tremclad. One person even told me to buy the brush-on kind, not the spray, because they put an additive in the spray to keep the nozzel clean.

What have people here used to paint their pocket clips?
 
blue will not work on stainless steel though ..
but they do have gun coating that is applied and then baked on and it is some tuff stuff and fairly easy to get the job done with good results..
here is a link to such a product..
JOHN NORRELL ARMS

It is called Moly Resin™ and believe me this stuff is some wicked stuff on guns and protects alot better than gun blue.. hope this helps.. be sure that when ya paint it and cure it it is what ya want .. cause when cured there is no known solvent to take the coating off.. only way is to have it bead blasted to remove... that is pretty impressive.. ;)
~Jeff
 
I will occassionally use some wet/dry sandpaper to smooth out and rough up the clip then paint it with a black high temp enamel spray paint. For an EDC it works pretty good, last 3 - 6 months.
 
My clips usually end up sand blasted. They never look bad with the pleasing gray finish, scratches don't show. Sand blast once and forever.
 
To keep it a glossy black color, without losing durabilty you may want to see if someone locally can put on a good quality gloss black powdercoat. If you want to do it yourself then the bake-on moly type coatings seem to work best. Remember not to apply it too heavily or it becomes counterproductive and is easier to flake off. If you use any sort of spray on, even the baked types, make absolutely sure the steel surface is clean. Remember that having a freshly cut steel surface works best, but once you wash it off with a solvent or detergent or handle it without cotton gloves that it can leave contaminants on the surface that prevent adhesion. It's not usually a big problem, but if you have any problems with the better coatings it's usually due to surface prep, in fact that may be the problem you're having with regular paints now.
 
Brownell's ALUMAHYDE 2. It's an aerosol that I use it on everything, my guns, magazines, knife blades and pocket clips.

It's an epoxy paint that takes up to a week to cure, or you can force the cure in the oven.

It;s tough as hell and is impervious to most solvents including bore cleaner, brake cleaner, alcohol etc.

It's available in many colors and is at www.brownells.com
 
Cheap and fairly effective solution is black shrink tubing. Lasts a good while, and when it starts to get ratty, is easy to remove and re-apply.
 
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