Painting axe heads

Curt Hal

Curt Hal

Joined
Jul 8, 2014
Messages
558
I just picked up an old fireman's axe. Once I fix up the head, I was thinking of re-painting it before putting on a new haft. I have never done this, but imagine it's more of an operation than a spray can. Would you use a metal primer and automotive paint? Does it need any kind of etching done prior to applying the primer? Any advise greatly appreciated.
 
Ive never done that but i doubt its much more complicated than what you just stated honestly... clean well and spray paint imo.
 
No paint is gonna stay if you use it, and if it'll just be decorative then it doubly doesn't matter what you use. I think an acetone clean and a some spray paint should be just fine.
 
I've been thinking about this also, and what I would like to do on mine is glass bead it and spray it with DuraCoat
They have a fair assortment of red colors, unfortunately they can't ship to my location
 
Curt Hal said:
I won't be using it. It is purely decorative.
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In that case good old 'one shot' Tremclad, Rustoleum or equivalent ought to do the trick for you. These days 'John Deere' colours and 'Caterpillar' yellow have become commonplace. In resurrecting a 50 year old Ariens (made in Wisconsin) snowblower over the past 5 years I discovered that there are even colour-matched spraypaints for those. Sure, backyard spray bomb paint jobs are not going to be as durable as a paint booth baked-on finish but so what.
 
hello , i do not paint the head of my working axes, i hate to leave some paint trace on the wood! but i paint the let's say last 8 inches of the haft, and i stick it into a log and i can be seen from quite far away if not hidden by a tree!
i use common red paint,in can, and a brush... some tape to have an clean work done.
(i leave a patina of the wood color for my bushcraft ones)
 
Preparation of the steel is key to a good paint job. I do not often paint an axe but when I do I just use a good quality spray paint like Rustolium, but first the steel needs to be properly prepped. The surface needs to be rust free and roughed up with 120-220 grit paper then degreased with acetone or hot soapy water, warm the steel to 80-100 degrees F and paint, let the paint harden for at least 3 days preferably a week or two before mounting the head on the haft.
 
I've used rattle cans - first etch primer x 2, then a few coats of automotive enamel.

It doesn't last of course.

Chemical bluing is another finish but it seems you need the full-on industrial process for it to last.
 
I've found that BLO serves as a good primer. Since I paint the head last on a restore the head is already a clean as its going to get before I finish the haft and just coat the head with BLO wiping off any excess as one would the haft.
 
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