Paper sharpening wheels

David Stifle

David Stifle

Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
10,188
They have a lot of hype. Do any of you guys use them, and do you like them? I'm thinking of getting some.

Dave
 
I use mine all the time. They have a little bit of a learning curve, but I haven't found another way to get knives that sharp that fast.
 
I use them too. It cut down alot of time it took me to sharpen a new blade. I recommend you get a set and practice on old knives until you get the hang of them.
 
I use mine a lot and you can put a very sharp cutting edge on knives really quick. The two things you need to practice are keeping the knife level to the wheel and how far to drop down the wheel to complete the final edge.
 
I just use the second one simply to buff off the burr. I use a fresh slack belt of about 400 grit to establish the burr. Been using the same wheel for 15 years or so.
 
Bruce Bump said:
I just use the second one simply to buff off the burr. I use a fresh slack belt of about 400 grit to establish the burr. Been using the same wheel for 15 years or so.
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Thats the best way. you will not get a blade sharper then using paper wheel's.
 
Guys,

I apologize for posting this and running away, but I got called away on a business trip. Anyway, I did buy one, and I really like it. It is fast, and boy, I got a razor edge on my knives. It's especially handy for re-curve blades, which I make a lot. Wish I'd got it sooner.

Dave
 
Chris,

As the other guys said, practice on old knives until you get the hang of it. Once you do, and it's not hard, you can really get some sharp, and I do mean sharp, blades. Only question I have is how long do they last? Anyone have any input there?

Dave
 
Is there any concern about overheating the steel at the very fine edge?
 
Also, what size are these wheels and what machines are you guys using them on? I may have to check them out.
 
I normally use a a very dense Scotch bright wheel then a solid felt wheel with the white compound, same principal but forked out AU$40.00 on a set of these paper ones just to see if they are any better, will let you know once they arrive.

Richard
 
J. Doyle said:
Also, what size are these wheels and what machines are you guys using them on? I may have to check them out.
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I think you can get 8" and 6" I use 8" on a 8" bench grinder.


Nathan it's just like any other wheel/belt you have to keep a eye on it.

Richard
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Is there any concern about overheating the steel at the very fine edge?
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Nathan, I was doing some cheap thin kitchen knives that were kinda dull and yes I got the dreaded blue line along part of the edge. I recommend taking it slow and dipping in water.

My method on my new knives no longer uses the gritted wheel.

D2 I sharpen before the ht with a 100x triac belt and then run the edge across the belt once to make it safe to handle. No worries about decarb and as you know it sucks to grind on hard.

I leave a dime width on damascus and carbon pre HT and then take it to a burr with a new 100x and the platen.

On both I use the platen so it is a very controlled angle.

Then, after the 100x and platen on carbon and the HT on D2, I remove platen on KMG and use a NEW 100x to get a burr and dip with water. Then I go to a new 65x, then a 45 and finally a 5x then I go to the paper wheel with the white rouge and get rid of the final burr. The whole secondary bevel becomes polished. I know some like a coarser belt to get that toothy feel, but I get a very smooth, sharp edge really cuts.
 
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I haven't got the dreaded blue line yet. I use a VERY light touch when the edge starts to really thin out.

It's really no different than using your belt grinder, except it's a more flexible method. It's really good for recurve blades.

Dave
 
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