Paper wheels don't like to sharpen certain knives?

FlaMtnBkr

FlaMtnBkr

Joined
Oct 20, 2004
Messages
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I have had the paper wheels that RichardJ recommends for awhile now. For the most part I can get knives pretty darn sharp.

However, occasionally I will encounter a knife that just doesn't want to get sharp. Has anyone else experienced this? Were you able to come up with a technique to get it sharp?

The last one I ran into was a Buck skinning knife. I'm not positive of the model (will try to look it up) but I'm pretty sure it has their 420HC steel. I was barely able to get the knife to shave while usually I can whittle hair and push cut newspaper easily.

I have noticed that sometimes if I use more pressure on the polishing wheel it helps. I also have noticed that a slightly steeper angle than what was used on the grit wheel seems to help.

Any others experience this? Thanks!!!

Ryan
 
Have you checked for a burr? Does it shave hair on one side, but not the other? One trick I've learned is to shine a bright light on the edge, it should be dark.
 
I have checked with my thumb nail and with a light. I have never seen any kind of burr that I recognized after using the polishing wheel. It is my understanding that the polishing wheel should rip any burr right off but I could be giving the wheels too much credit.
 
a magnafying glass is a big help but i have had problems with certain brands not wanting to take a good edge. if you can get an identically shaped knife sharp then i would say its the steel not being capable of taking a good edge. for example, i have an ontario old hickory kitchen knife that a file will cut along the edge. i can get it sharp but not as sharp as i can the knives i make. i had cjpgeyer sharpen the very same knife and his results were the same as mine and it was his very first knife he ever sharpened on the wheels. sometimes a factory knife has the wrong edge to start with (too obtuse) and if you follow the very same edge, the knife wont get any sharper so going to a steeper angle will help. sometimes even a convex edge worked up on a belt sander will give you an even better edge. sometimes it might help to walk away and go back to the knife later.
 
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I know there are a handful of members that use the paper wheels.

Does the lack of responses mean that others have not run into this problem and they can get all knives equally sharp?
 
It really depends on the steel and your testing. I got "paper wheel fever" from our mutual pal richardJ as well...here is what I've found:

- Edge shoulder geometry on the blade plays a factor...too thick, dull knife.

- I have gotten some knives so silky smooth on the edge that they feel dull, wont shave well BUT they will push cut newspaper with the best of them.

- The type of steel you have can make a difference...high carbide steels like ZDP-189 and S110V seem to cut better with a bit of "toothy" edge. I took a perfectly sharpened S110V Shallot from the paper wheels and couldnt get it to shave...I barely hit the micro bevel on the fine stone with a Sharpmaker...now it cuts like a monster.

- Kitchen knives like a bit of tooth on the edge, I've found that a silky smooth edge will slide on a tomato skin instead of cut into it. The knife definitely isnt dull, but the final edge you can run your finger down lightly and slowly, without a cut...for those who havent experienced this, the knife seems dull...

- The paper wheels produce a "perceived" razor edge on VG-10, S30V, every carbon steel Ive tested...and even S60V...the only really hard steel I've obtained a versatile edge with has been SG2. I havent sharpened 420C on wheels, but Ive owned my share of Buck 110s, and unless the shoulder of the edge is blocking the wheels from contacting the final edge, I dont believe you should have any issue unless its a possible bad blade. I would sharpen it on another media first and test the results.

My advice - use some various test media before deciding the knife is dull. Shaving, paper, plastics...all respond differently to geometry AND finished edge. Find which combo works well for you.

Hope that gives you some insight.
 
You're not alone on this one! I've also run into a few knives I haven't been able to get razor sharp , including a Kershaw Nakamura with the VG10 laminate steel; I can get it sharp but not up to where my other blades are. I don't think it's any particular steel that's the problem either. I've got a Benchmade mini skirmish in S30V that I can't get as sharp as my Buck/Mayo in the same steel. I have several knives in 440C that all take a different edge even though this steel is very easy to sharpen on the wheels. I'm wondering if the reason for the variance is the heat treating differences even between similar models? :confused:
 
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Richard,I would like to start sharpening using the paper wheel method.I've looked online and can locate where to get the wheels and refurbishing compound,but having trouble with the double shafted grinder motor.If you could lend some advice it would be much appreciated.I've been using stones of various types for 30+ years with great results,but o so time consuming. Thanks....
 
Since I already have this thread started I figured I would ask here before starting a new one.

Has anyone tried any other compounds on the polishing wheel besides what the wheels come with? I have read about lots of compounds, including diamonds, that are used on strops and was curious if anyone had experimented. Thanks!
 
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