paper wheels making recurve in millie

Heiheit

Heiheit

Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
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so my paper wheels are making a recurve in my military near the rissato. Im not sure why its like this. the corners of the wheel are rounded though. its a very very slight recurve, but its annoying. i dont really want to screw around and take a bunch of metal off. any help? i may just send it out for them to fix it, but i can probably fix it if i know how. help is welcomed

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That's one of the disadvantages of power tools.
 
I had the same problem with my millie. I think its the way you apply pressure when sharpening. If more pressure is applied when sharpening beginning at the rissaso, then less as you sharpen towards the end, it will create a recurve. I tried fixing mine, but only ended up making the blade more and more shorter. I had to send mine in.
 
jesse2205 said:
I had the same problem with my millie. I think its the way you apply pressure when sharpening. If more pressure is applied when sharpening beginning at the rissaso, then less as you sharpen towards the end, it will create a recurve. I tried fixing mine, but only ended up making the blade more and more shorter. I had to send mine in.
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I was thinking the same thing.
 
Honestly, I use my paper wheel just for making a semi-sharp blade scary sharp. I rarely use the gritted wheel. The gritted wheel, even with a lot of wax, will easily change the shape or your blade and reprofile it. I'm not too skilled on that yet, so I make sure that I have my blades with the profile I need and I can just use the slotted paper wheel. That wheel allows a lot more room for error.
 
jesse2205 said:
Honestly, I use my paper wheel just for making a semi-sharp blade scary sharp. I rarely use the gritted wheel. The gritted wheel, even with a lot of wax, will easily change the shape or your blade and reprofile it. I'm not too skilled on that yet, so I make sure that I have my blades with the profile I need and I can just use the slotted paper wheel. That wheel allows a lot more room for error.
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Very true. Its strange, but only the military has been giving me this problem. I think its because it has so much belly.
 
I was once told to start the wheel in the belly of the blade, sharpen back to the plunge/ricasso and then do a full pass out to the tip. Might help with this "initial pressure issue"? Just passing on what I was told.
 
there is no disadvantage to using a power tool to sharpen your knife if you know how to use the sharpener. i can sharpen a knife faster cheaper than i can by hand with better results. if you're sharpening with the knife in front of the wheel edge down that is probably why you are having this problem. i dont have that problem since i sharpen with the knife held at the 1:00 position. when you're holding the knife in this manner you cant place the knife down paralell to the wheel. i line the blade up with the wheel before i even make contact. without the wheel running try it out and you'll see what i mean. heiheit, if you need help i'll be glad to call you.
 
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Hello:

Can't tell for sure, but it looks like in your photo that you're trying to sharpen right up to the ricasso. There's a small triangular shaped section where the blade goes into the ricasso that should be avoided when sharpening. This will contribute to the recurve effect. Some blades have a cutout choil which helps prevent this from happening.

cbw
 
Though I agree with others that almost any powered sharpener can be expected to remove metal faster (and produce more heat, BTW) if not used judiciously, it's not uncommon to see sort of the same thing even sharpening by hand with hones/stones. If you think about it, this is because when we're working the length of an edge, or even just part of the length, it's easy to spend less time up near the ricasso than on the rest.

Actually I think the slight recurve looks kind of attractive; of course I would, being as I've grown to really like the Kershaw Shallot, which is similar. :) But if it were mine, and I didn't like it, rather than trying to work it out right now, which means removing even more metal, I'd just try to focus on sharpening near the ricasso in the future, and let it slowly work itself out over time.
 
Thanks for all of your replies guys. It helps you out. Richard, If I can't figure this out, I'll make sure to call you! I may just leave it as is and use it to see how it works. The next time it needs a sharpening I'll give it a go. Or maybe when i get my Ti Millie, I'll send this one in ;)
 
I think the recurve looks good and almost professional. Buy another one and move the recurve anothe4r centimeter into the belly. Should look good :thumbup:

Sorta joking, sorta not.
 
richard j said:
there is no disadvantage to using a power tool to sharpen your knife if you know how to use the sharpener. i can sharpen a knife faster cheaper than i can by hand with better results. if you're sharpening with the knife in front of the wheel edge down that is probably why you are having this problem. i dont have that problem since i sharpen with the knife held at the 1:00 position. when you're holding the knife in this manner you cant place the knife down paralell to the wheel. i line the blade up with the wheel before i even make contact. without the wheel running try it out and you'll see what i mean. heiheit, if you need help i'll be glad to call you.
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Richard, when you say the "1:00 position," is that as seen from the right or the left side of the buffer? I do not want to assume here, so please clarify for me, as I'd like to give your method a try.

Thanks,
Bill
 
ChapmanPreferred said:
I was once told to start the wheel in the belly of the blade, sharpen back to the plunge/ricasso and then do a full pass out to the tip. Might help with this "initial pressure issue"? Just passing on what I was told.
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This is good advise and may help you.. I'd also suggest using very crisp cornered wheels to get all the way to the rear of the edge..
 
Well I'm pretty sure I've made it worse

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I'm going to be sending this damn thing in... Hope I didnt take too much metal off. I really don't want to send another one in so soon though.. Its a hard time to love knives.. It's a love hate relationship.
 
i'm looking at the wheel from the right side whenever i talk about the wheels with the wheel rotating counter clockwise or to you when standing in front. you hold the blade on the back side of the wheel when sharpening. one thing i do if someone sends me a knife that has the recurve look i angle the blade and work on the ricasso to get rid of the recurve section. if you're not in a hurry to get the blade fixed just work it out as you sharpen it on the wheels.
heiheit, you need to cut a notch so the wheel can fit in the corner. you can do it with a dremel tool and a cutoff disc. if you have to send it in you can send it to me and i'll fix it for you. just pay for return shipping. you can send just the blade only.
 
richard j said:
i'm looking at the wheel from the right side whenever i talk about the wheels with the wheel rotating counter clockwise or to you when standing in front. you hold the blade on the back side of the wheel when sharpening. one thing i do if someone sends me a knife that has the recurve look i angle the blade and work on the ricasso to get rid of the recurve section. if you're not in a hurry to get the blade fixed just work it out as you sharpen it on the wheels.
heiheit, you need to cut a notch so the wheel can fit in the corner. you can do it with a dremel tool and a cutoff disc. if you have to send it in you can send it to me and i'll fix it for you. just pay for return shipping. you can send just the blade only.
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Richard,

that would be awesome. I may need to take you up on that offer. but first' can you elaborate on cutting the notch in the wheel?
 
I think he's talking about cutting a notch on your blade so the wheel will fit in the corner? Regardless of the recurve, to me the blade actually looks pretty good. How is the sharpness?
 
thanks jesse. i should have been more specific. cutting a notch will allow for the wheel to get in close.
 
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