Paper wheels,several questions

HeavyHanded

HeavyHanded

Joined
Jun 4, 2010
Messages
6,642
Folks that have them - what is the best way to clean the wheel off in preparation of re-applying the compound?

Do the results from the slotted wheel taper off over time when used for maintenance, requiring one to go back to the abrasive grit wheel (as one might with a manual strop over time), or does the slotted wheel maintain the edge consistently?
 
Depends on how dull the knife is. Works like your strop, only better in my experience. I did have to sand down the slotted wheel to remove the build-up of buffing compound. It was much better after that, and I have stopped adding compound every time I use it. I now use the compound very sparingly, and get much better results from them.

Omar
:rolleyes:
 
I used 40 grit sandpaper backed by a board so that I could pivot the board from the bottom, below the wheel and present a flat surface. It probably took 30 hits or so - the grit kept loading up with wax, grit and old adhesive. I finished with 80 grit and a white wheel surface. Use the PVA glue (Elmer's in the U.S.) recommended and wait the 24 hours.

All this comes from Richard J. as well as the instructions. RIchard also recommends periodic cleaning of the slots with a hack saw (or similar) blade.
 
Bernoulli said:
I used 40 grit sandpaper backed by a board so that I could pivot the board from the bottom, below the wheel and present a flat surface. It probably took 30 hits or so - the grit kept loading up with wax, grit and old adhesive. I finished with 80 grit and a white wheel surface. Use the PVA glue (Elmer's in the U.S.) recommended and wait the 24 hours.
Click to expand...

This needs translating. DM
 
David Martin said:
This needs translating. DM
Click to expand...

I think what he is talking about, is re-surfacing of the gritted/grinding wheel. The process of using sandpaper on the wheel to remove the old surface is the same way I removed the old buffing compound on the slotted wheel. Sand down to the new part of the wheel, and the flat board makes it all nice and flat as it was when new. Use a hack saw blade to clean out the groves or make them deeper if needed.

I don't think using the paper wheel as a strop will in and of itself make the blade convex. You use light pressure, same as on a leather strop, to strop/polish the blade. If the grind is convex to start with, then it will still be a convex when done. The slotted wheel has no grit on it to grind the blade. Light pressure on the slotted wheel is what you want when using it.

Omar
:rolleyes:
 
DJG097 said:
Yes, The slotted wheel has a little bit of give (not alot but still some) which convexes the edge slightly.
Click to expand...

Thanks gentlemen. Paper being abrasive in its make up as is a leather strop and with some spinning speed. I wondered if this might show up at the apex. DM
 
Ohallum, Thanks, that clears it up. Having no experience with the paper wheels I needed some basic explaination of their common operations. DM
 
Richard j has a few threads on paper wheels
Already you may want to check them out it
May save you some time !

Frank
 
Hunt down Richard J, he can answer any question about paper wheels that you ve got! In fact he might have invented them!? :D
 
i have a lot of tips in my paper wheel 101 thread including how i dress either wheel. here is the link to it. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608864

there is no reason to sand the compound off the slotted wheel. the only time you should sand the slotted wheel is when it gets low spots next to the slots and causes the wheel to have small humps that can cause a slight bounce.

david, you need to check out the wheels. if you want to see what kind of an edge they put on i'll sharpen up a knife for you if you pay shipping and insurance both ways
 
Thanks for the responses. I'm mostly curious whether they can be used indefinitely to maintain an edge with just the slotted wheel or if the edge slowly looses its character over time and needs to be hit again with the coarser wheel?
Thanks
 
you can maintain an edge for a long time with just the slotted wheel. when i got k II back from the passaround, all i had to do was give it a few passes on the slotted wheel and it was shaving sharp again. it was still sharp, just not shaving sharp but it was put through a lot of abuse. for anyone that has never seen the vid that unit made of k II, here it is. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q_eMwRaHYg
 
[video=youtube;7_ZtmGPH5b0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_ZtmGPH5b0[/video]

cost $100 though to get set up... I have one on order. I have had difficulty with just the board and 40 grit sandpaper making it truly round without any stutter whatsoever, even though it is "good enough" it is not perfect.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top