Paper Wheels vs Hand DMT stones

C

chococrazy

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Jul 1, 2009
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I'm deciding whether or not I should go with Hand DMT stones (the higher priced option). Or paper Wheels (I'm wondering if the ones sold at wood working are Richard J's kind). Or possibly a sander.
Here are the things I'm wondering.
Will I be able to work on Scandi grinds with paper wheels? I could see that being impossible as there's not enough surface the sharpen the face of the blade.
I would also like to know which one would be more well rounded for lets say mirror polishing an edge and possible a spine or side of a blade.
Which of these methods are the most cost effective?
I really want to see what Richard J and Knifenut have to say about the two.
 
I don't like paper wheels at all let alone any wheel type grinder. They're bad news for edges IMO. If you need to use a power tool, go with a good quality grinder (like the kalamazoo 1sm) with a variety of belts. It would be a terrible idea to try to sharpen a scandi knife with any wheel grinder.

If you want a mirror polished edge go with stones and strops loaded with compound. If you get a mirror edge with the wheels you probably rounded the edge making it go dull. If you want parts other than the edge polished (spine, hardware, etc.) get a grinder and a hard felt buff with compound.

Obviously Richard will say paper wheels and Jason will say dmt stones.
 
when it comes to comparing a set of wheels with a belt sander, there isnt much difference. both are machine powered and remove metal the same. with the wheels you only buy 2 wheels and they will last for 20+ years. you wont need to spend a bunch of money on different grit belts that wear out. if you are sharpening convex edges then the belts are worth it but for a v edge the wheels are the cheapest route to go. for under $100. or less you can buy a set of wheels and motor. i can put a mirror finish on a knife with the wheels just the same as with any diamond stones or paste.

heiheit, it seems you dont know much about the wheels. they wont round the edge over like you said.
 
richard j said:
when it comes to comparing a set of wheels with a belt sander, there isnt much difference. both are machine powered and remove metal the same. with the wheels you only buy 2 wheels and they will last for 20+ years. you wont need to spend a bunch of money on different grit belts that wear out. if you are sharpening convex edges then the belts are worth it but for a v edge the wheels are the cheapest route to go. for under $100. or less you can buy a set of wheels and motor. i can put a mirror finish on a knife with the wheels just the same as with any diamond stones or paste.

heiheit, it seems you dont know much about the wheels. they wont round the edge over like you said.
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My main concern is a Scandi knife like a mora or bush craft.
I'm pretty sure that wheels won't be able to sharpen it. That is my main problem on deciding whether or not to go with diamond stones or a set of wheels.
Oh and Richard J- Are the wheels sold at Wood Working the ones you use?
 
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Well, less than 100.00 seems like that impossible to me, I was thinking of picking up some wheels for recurves, but cheaper buffers and grinders are way too fast (3400 rpm) Delta's and such that do go 1725 rpm are 150.00+. Then the wheels cost an additional 50.00. From what I have found, (after shipping) to use paper wheels as you have been suggesting costs about 200.00. Any suggestions?
 
with a scandi edge i would use a glass plate with sandpaper to work up a burr. the paper buffing wheel can remove the burr and polish the edge all in one step. no need to use a leather strop. if i touch up a scandi edge thats what i use. a 400 grit wetordry paper will give you a good finish.

the wheels sold at grizzly imports and woodcraft stores are the good ones. you dont need a 3400 rpm motor either, a 1725 rpm motor will work just fine.
 
richard j said:
when it comes to comparing a set of wheels with a belt sander, there isnt much difference. both are machine powered and remove metal the same. with the wheels you only buy 2 wheels and they will last for 20+ years. you wont need to spend a bunch of money on different grit belts that wear out. if you are sharpening convex edges then the belts are worth it but for a v edge the wheels are the cheapest route to go. for under $100. or less you can buy a set of wheels and motor. i can put a mirror finish on a knife with the wheels just the same as with any diamond stones or paste.

heiheit, it seems you dont know much about the wheels. they wont round the edge over like you said.
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I had to stop using them because of the poor edge produced. That being said, it might be operator failure as I know they work very well for you and no disrespect was intended. Everybody has their niche.
 
i have had several members who have the wheels contact me because they cant get a good edge, most were wanting me to sharpen their knife for them which i dont like to do unless the blade is really messed up. last month a member contacted me wanting my address but instead i talked with him on the phone and gave him some tips. he was finally able to get his knife sharp. another member who goes by electric is someone else i helped with using the wheels. he couldnt sharpen his knives on his edge pro or other expensive sharpeners he bought but he was able to with the wheels. he even has a loss of vision in one eye and still got his knife shaving sharp.
 
richard j said:
i have had several members who have the wheels contact me because they cant get a good edge, most were wanting me to sharpen their knife for them which i dont like to do unless the blade is really messed up. last month a member contacted me wanting my address but instead i talked with him on the phone and gave him some tips. he was finally able to get his knife sharp. another member who goes by electric is someone else i helped with using the wheels. he couldnt sharpen his knives on his edge pro or other expensive sharpeners he bought but he was able to with the wheels. he even has a loss of vision in one eye and still got his knife shaving sharp.
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I believe that. The edges I get with them could shave hair.
 
Power equipment is great for doing work that would be considered too time consuming to do by hand or where the highest quality is not a great concern. That's not to say the edges won't be sharp but the finish/appearance will not even come close to what you can do by hand.

I think a belt sander is a great tool to have and comes in handy with more than just sharpening. With mine I use only two belts, a 80 grit zirconia and a loaded leather belt. I can get surprisingly sharp edges from this combo but don't use it very often. Though the edges are sharp I'm not fond of the finish and power equipment tends to remove more steel than I like, also over time can do things like re-curve a edge.

When it comes too scandi grinds look to the other current thread for my views on that. To sum it up though.... water stones

When it comes to diamonds its go big or go home, a set of 8x3 plates runs almost 400, plus paste and leather/wood. If your collection consists of high wear resistant steels then its you best option as it will yield the best results and last you a lifetime. If you plan on keeping up with steel they are also a good future investment.

IMO none of your equipment choices reflect your sharpening needs.
 
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