Paper wheels

Joined
Feb 21, 2009
Messages
5
Received my paper wheels a few days ago and attached to HF buffer. I have been practicing on a cheap cold steel knife - results barely OK. This knife sharpens to a razor edge with my edge pro real quick, but only so so on the wheels. Cuts paper and shaves arm hair but barely not nearly as fine an edge as on the edge pro. I feel as though I am getting there but I could use some suggestions. Any tips you all could give to speed up my learning curve. I can get a good burr fairly easy on the grit wheel, but I just cannot
finish the edge on the slotted wheel. Sometimes the edge is barely good enough to cut newspaper - other times the edge is actually dull. I will appreciate any help you guys can give me. I have read every post relating to the paper wheels. I sure wish Richard lived near me! I am old and a slow learner so please keep tips simple. GuyG
 
I am about to finally buy a set too. I gotta check with Richard one last time to be sure that I get the right ones. I use a Belt sander but would like to have a fast way to deburr.
 
I've used paper wheels for a while, but don't like them anymore at all. I bought DMT stones for free handing (which is a better skill to have). I wish it could have worked better for me, but i can't lie and say it did. I'm sure Richard and others have had great success, but for me it has too many problems.
 
Some tips depend on how you use the wheels to sharpen (turning toward / away, top of the wheel, etc.) A couple of general tips: make sure that you're hitting the same spot, or same angle on both wheels. One bad pass can dull the edge. Also, don't overdue it on the polish wheel. It should only take a couple of passes per side. If, after the 3rd or 4th pass on the polish wheel, I don't have a very sharp knife, I start looking for what the problem is.... I may have rounded off the edge, not enough work on the 1st wheel, etc.

If you email Richard J, he usually responds right away... I think he's not spending as much time on the forum because of headaches. He probably knows the most about problems that new users have.

cbw
 
They work well for me. In particular, I've gotten good edges on knives I've always had trouble with. I'm using 10" wheels, low RPM motor and using the 20 degree angle at the top rather than the recommended fast, conventional set-up. I've had no special instruction, but I've been careful to apply an even light pressure and constant rate - as recommended by Richard.

Ive been sharpening knives using many different systems for over sixty years and this is by far the best.
 
I have the edge pro, belt sander, spyderco etc.
The paper wheel is faster then the others and no changing to go from start to finish. It just takes practice as with any other method. Good luck and practice.
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Its not a guard if you are looking at the pieces next to the wheels. They have the degrees marked on them so when I started I always picked up the same angle on the wheels. With this set up if I want to change speeds I just change the rear pully and belt. Made it about 3 years ago for buffing etc. Now use it for the paper wheels only. In time you kind of know the spot on the wheel that is 10,15,20 etc. degrees. It comes with practice.
 
Thanks Chapman Preferred. It runs good.
2 1/2" gives this setup---2156 rpm's
3 1/2" 3018 rpm's
There are formulas on the internet to calculate your shaft speeds.
 
I was under the impression that when using paper wheels, the rpm's are supposed to be ultra ultra slow. Guess I'm wrong about that. Thanks
 
i have used a 1/2 hp 1725 rpm motor ever since i started using them over 18 years ago and havent found the need to go any faster. you can run them faster but there is no need. the faster you go when using the abrasive wheel the faster and deeper you go into the blade should you press to hard by accident. if anyone has troouble it could be due to how you are sharpening.
rpttrsn has a good simple setup. with practice you wont need the degee marks. i run my wheels rotating to me so i can see whats happening on the edge. you can watch the burr form so much easier and also tell if you're matching the existing edge (if matching the edge is what you want to do). REMEMBER TO NEVER GO INTO EITHER WHEEL EDGE FIRST. always go with the edge.
 
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It's all good brotha, you just need a little time on them and determine the appropriate angle relative to the placement on the wheel. Such as what rpttrsn did with his. At that point as long as you approach it completely horizontal and keep your "sweep" consistent, you'll be bustin' out oversized razor blades pretty quickly.

I didn't mark mine, but I put a blade that I knew the edge angle horizontally to the top and moved it down until it just "matched" the edge, from there I was able to guesstimate the other edge angles I've encountered. When I check them on the Lansky, I'm pretty dead on, enough that a degree or two wont matter in my case. Now I always end up re profiling anyhow so I had to learn my own. One thing I've learned about the wheels is keep the pressure soft. Especially on the buff wheel, and since you don't have a way of controlling your speed yet, I use to turn off the grinder and buff out as it slowed, very lightly, barely touching the blade to the wheel. That helped.

Another big tip is to twist at the waist or use lean the direction of the sweep, basically use your larger muscles to draw the knife across. Thats has really kept me consistent.



REMEMBER TO NEVER GO INTO EITHER WHEEL EDGE FIRST. always go with the edge.
Pay very close attention to this!! I've made that mistake before and might possible be lucky to be here or atleast able to type this. I will never ever make that mistake again.
 
i'm used to having people watch me from doing fundraisers. i would suggest that noobs to the wheels avoid any distractions to avoid any accidents. if any of you get a chance to set up at a fundraiser its good experience and a real test to your ability. i used to set up at a motorcycle club charity fundraiser hog roast. luckily no drunks bumped into me while sharpening but i have seen some pretty funny things people do with their knives after i sharpened them. i posted a funny story in my time important thread (somewhere in there) its the hairy arm guy story.
 
i'm used to having people watch me from doing fundraisers. i would suggest that noobs to the wheels avoid any distractions to avoid any accidents. if any of you get a chance to set up at a fundraiser its good experience and a real test to your ability. i used to set up at a motorcycle club charity fundraiser hog roast. luckily no drunks bumped into me while sharpening but i have seen some pretty funny things people do with their knives after i sharpened them. i posted a funny story in my time important thread (somewhere in there) its the hairy arm guy story.

I liked the hairy arm guy story. Alcohol can make sharp knives very fascinating...Watching alcohol imbibed people can be fascinating as well as amusing. :D
 
i wish i was there to have seen him the next morning. my buddy still laughs about it every time he sees me.
 
I marked angles on the side of the wheel. Then I use a bent up piece of coat hanger as a pointer for the correct angle. As long as I keep the blade flat and lined up with the pointer, I'm hitting the correct angle.

My advice is to keep your pressure very light on the polish wheel.
 
I marked the wheels so that I can get a consistant 22.5 degree angle on both wheels. It seems to help but still not up to the edge pro - I believe I just need to practice more. This method is fast and hppefully I will eventually get to the super fine edge I am looking for. If I don't I intend to contact Richard for some ideas - just don't want to bother him unless I really need to. He has already been a big help with his posts, which convinced me to give the paper wheels a try. Thanks Richard and all you guys for your help. GuyG
 
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