par2 rolling edge

G

ginochipchip

Joined
Aug 4, 2013
Messages
88
so i have been getting better a sharping my knives but this para i have gets really sharp but if seems to roll and fall off fast
all my other knives are good and last a long time.
i have read about s30v and it should be a good blade
my other knives are
zt0562 m390
manix 2 xl s30v
spyderco southard 204p
bravo 1 3v
essential m4
i like the para 2 and i is my edc for the most part should i raise the angle ??
i sharpen all free hand
thanks all
g
 
What are you using to sharpen it, and at what angle? Maybe you have a wire edge? Try putting a microbevel, a few light strokes at a slightly higher angle than the original sharpening angle.
 
Also be mindful of what you are cutting into. Things that have a higher hardness than steel will roll or chip the edge of any blade.
 
From what I've seen s30v doesn't hold a razor edge long, but will hold a working edge forever it seems. Also it seems to handle better with a toothy edge. How fine of an edge are you applying? High polish? What angle?
 
S30V is known for a sort of unusual edge holding pattern:

The blade starts out quite sharp. It can be made hair popping sharp with some care. After a small amount of use this extreme sharpness falls off quickly. I'd estimate it goes from something like 100% to 50 - 60% in a very small amount of cutting. Then it stays at this medium sharpness for a good long time. This level of sharpness is below arm hair shaving. But it still has enough sharpness to cut cardboard and many, many other things pretty well. This lasts for a much longer time than you might expect and falls off very gradually.

Me being the crazy person I am, this bugs the heck out of me, and I generally end up touching up my S30V blade a short time after it goes to that medium level. Which kind of defeats the point of having a "super steel" blade in the first place. I'll never buy another blade in S30V. I barely carry the one I have now because of this. I'd rather have 8Cr18Mov or similar.

Brian.
 
bgentry said:
S30V is known for a sort of unusual edge holding pattern:

The blade starts out quite sharp. It can be made hair popping sharp with some care. After a small amount of use this extreme sharpness falls off quickly. I'd estimate it goes from something like 100% to 50 - 60% in a very small amount of cutting. Then it stays at this medium sharpness for a good long time. This level of sharpness is below arm hair shaving. But it still has enough sharpness to cut cardboard and many, many other things pretty well. This lasts for a much longer time than you might expect and falls off very gradually.

Me being the crazy person I am, this bugs the heck out of me, and I generally end up touching up my S30V blade a short time after it goes to that medium level. Which kind of defeats the point of having a "super steel" blade in the first place. I'll never buy another blade in S30V. I barely carry the one I have now because of this. I'd rather have 8Cr18Mov or similar.

Brian.
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Have you tried s110v? It holds a razor edge a lot longer than s30v, then very slowly will drop off. When it does lose that insanely sharp edge it holds a shaving sharp edge for along time again and will slowly get down to the working edge which I can only imagine how long it'll hold there. I've been able to maintain it at shaving sharp with daily use for well over a month just by stropping after heavy use.
 
Ive had similar results with s30v. The only knives i have left in that steel are less utility oriented. A waved pm2 that is used only for sd duty if i feel like I'm going somewhere where i may need it, and a combat trodon that just gets played with. s90v, cts204p and m390 are far superior for utility work.
 
Bobby3326 said:
Have you tried s110v?
Click to expand...

That's a steel that I REALLY want to try. My current budget is rather limited. I was considering a Manix 2 LW in S110V, but I read a number of opinions that the handle was terrible on that knife and I didn't pull the trigger.

I fully intend to get a more "super" super steel at some point.

Brian.
 
bgentry said:
That's a steel that I REALLY want to try. My current budget is rather limited. I was considering a Manix 2 LW in S110V, but I read a number of opinions that the handle was terrible on that knife and I didn't pull the trigger.

I fully intend to get a more "super" super steel at some point.

Brian.
Click to expand...
Yea, I have the pm2 in s110v, and planned on getting that manix 2 after seeing the steel perform. The handle is horrible thou, I've heard their releasing a g10 manix2 in s110v next year I'm waiting for instead.
 
i use the dmt 600 1200
spyderco med fine ultra
not sure on the angle i freehand it
i have tried light micro helps a bit i think the problem is that i always want the sharpest i can have it lol
working edge just wont do
 
I also found, with my S30V blade (which is a Spyderco Yojimbo 2 if anyone cares) that the more coarse I left the edge, the longer the edge lasted. When I was using the YJ2 a lot, I was primarily cutting open boxes. So a lot of tape, and abrasion along the edge from drawing it between pieces of cardboard. Plus some actual cardboard cutting. I settled on using a 100 micron belt on my WSKO and then deburring on a 4 micron belt. I really liked the performance of that edge.

If I was going to do the same thing today, I think I'd sharpen it on a DMC C (45 micron) and carefully deburr directly on the DMT. Then strop a tiny bit if necessary. I've had good luck with this setup on other steels recently. (Thanks Jason B for the inspiration.)

Brian.
 
bgentry said:
I also found, with my S30V blade (which is a Spyderco Yojimbo 2 if anyone cares) that the more coarse I left the edge, the longer the edge lasted. When I was using the YJ2 a lot, I was primarily cutting open boxes. So a lot of tape, and abrasion along the edge from drawing it between pieces of cardboard. Plus some actual cardboard cutting. I settled on using a 100 micron belt on my WSKO and then deburring on a 4 micron belt. I really liked the performance of that edge.

If I was going to do the same thing today, I think I'd sharpen it on a DMC C (45 micron) and carefully deburr directly on the DMT. Then strop a tiny bit if necessary. I've had good luck with this setup on other steels recently. (Thanks Jason B for the inspiration.)

Brian.
Click to expand...

i will try this the next time around the block lol
rocking the southard this week
 
bgentry said:
I also found, with my S30V blade (which is a Spyderco Yojimbo 2 if anyone cares) that the more coarse I left the edge, the longer the edge lasted. When I was using the YJ2 a lot, I was primarily cutting open boxes. So a lot of tape, and abrasion along the edge from drawing it between pieces of cardboard. Plus some actual cardboard cutting. I settled on using a 100 micron belt on my WSKO and then deburring on a 4 micron belt. I really liked the performance of that edge.

If I was going to do the same thing today, I think I'd sharpen it on a DMC C (45 micron) and carefully deburr directly on the DMT. Then strop a tiny bit if necessary. I've had good luck with this setup on other steels recently. (Thanks Jason B for the inspiration.)

Brian.
Click to expand...
For s30v I usually use the p120 belt, then the x65, and deburr on the 12k grit belt..

Ive never taken s30v to a high polish on a Bushcraft knife, so I'm going to experiment and see how well my benchmade 162 holds a polished edge cutting wood.
 
Highly polished edges excel at push cutting tasks. Like making fire sticks and other "whittling" type tasks. Low grit "coarse" edges do better at highly abrasive tasks like cutting through cardboard. They also do better at slice cuts.

Brian.
 
bgentry said:
Highly polished edges excel at push cutting tasks. Like making fire sticks and other "whittling" type tasks. Low grit "coarse" edges do better at highly abrasive tasks like cutting through cardboard. They also do better at slice cuts.

Brian.
Click to expand...
I just took it thru the series of belt grits.

P120, x65, x22, x4, and 12k belt, followed by stropping. It's by no means a high or perfect mirror polish, but more polished than I'd typically put on it. Gonna see how it performs tomorrow compared to my typical toothy edge.

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ginochipchip said:
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some of my edges
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For a folder edc knife I'd stick with a toothy edge with s30v, especially if you're cutting cardboard and things. I've never had good experiences with polishing a edc in that steel. I'm just curious how it'll hold with a more refined edge on a Bushcraft knife, thus the above knife.
 
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