Para Military for low rider but neat comparison

STR

STR

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I have had a lot of the Para Military knives in for low riders. That much is common knowledge and normally I'd not bother to post a pic of one of these because there are so many out there already. But, what this one did was allow me to compare a new old stock Para Mil to a new one I just had delivered to me yesterday and I noted several differences between the two.

One was the big stand out though and that was the edge bevel angle. Note the diff between the older one on the left and the newer one on the right? It appears Spyderco has changed there philosophy on the bevel angle at the factory. Anyone know more on this? I know I've had several of the S30V blades with 30` bevels mailed to me for micro fractures on the edge that I was asked to take out. I have not read anything of this change though and was just curious if this is just an isolated case of if indeed the newer models are coming from the factory with a 20` bevel or perhaps 18` verses the 15` per side???


STR
 
That is a very noticeable difference. I wonder if this is new Spyderco policy, and if it affects all the S30V blades?
 
Hi Steve,
I am pretty sure that the place I bought this Para from does not move very many knives and I know this was the last one they had.
I plan on putting a micro bevel on it when I get it back. I don't want to risk any fractures.
What happens in that case? Do you just have to reprofile?

Thanks!
Brett
 
Brett you can sharpen them out in most cases or some choose to send them to the manufacturers. I would sharpen unless it was a bad fracture which is more than a minor chip out. If after sharpening it continues doing it I'd then send it to the manufacturer I think. For myself with new knives I will simply add a 20 degree secondary bevel behind the 30` one if that is what is on it when I buy the knife. Its most always going to be one like yours with a steeper bevel that will show evidence of chipping. Now this isn't to say its always the case when you see an edge chip though so follow me please here.

I mean if you cut a package open that just arrived or a box to open it and hit metal staples under the tape you didn't see or are cleaning off some old caulking and bump a nail head under the caulk you were unaware of well, any steel is most likely going to see some edge damage from this. The difference is that some of the reports of this chipping issue with S30V are when cutting things the edge should not be chipping out from like cutting on wood or other things that simply should not effect it that way.

I see an aweful lot of Spyderco knives and many of the older 30` knives in this steel have obviously been used a lot but the edge looks fine on them. Of course this says nothing of the history of it or what it could have been like for the owner. For all anyone knows it has a history of needing chips doctored.

I have to say that if Sal has adopted a policy now of using a more obtuse edge angle with this steel that I agree with his decision. I have seen a lot of Spyderco knives in this steel and other brands that chipped on me but I of course fixed this myself. On the opposite side of the coin I have seen Kershaw and ZT knives in this steel and seen no such chipping out of the edge. It is easier for me to believe that the primary edge bevel angle difference between these two companies is the reason why rather than heat treatment. Based on my own experience I personally don't feel like S30V is capable of handling a steep angle like 15` per side for my type uses after having it and I'd say that for any heat treatment. For others this may or may not be something they agree with. Many obviously can use S30V just fine with the steeper angles.

I read a lot about S30V and there seems to be enough reports of this to be more than isolated cases of edge chipping. Then again there are reports from some custom makers using their fixed blades in this steel for some tough chopping jobs and in competitions sometimes even whacking them through nails without evidence of edge damage. This can be confusing for many but I think what needs to be addressed with this many times is the primary edge thickness and the overall thickness of the primary grind coming down to where it meets the edge bevel rather than just automatically attribute the toughness to a superior heat treatment. I don't mean to down play heat treatment; as that is obviously important but my point is its probably true that many of them have the same heat treat or so close its not enough to matter. I think if many were to be tested they'd discover that the ones capable of this non chipping performance are thicker in both places to make the edge strong enough to do this.

STR
 
Any chance you would reprofile the edge for me while it's there? I would be happy to drop a paypal in your lap. I have done a little of this but don't really trust myself with my novice skills. I plan on carrying this baby a lot and want to make sure it's in top condition.

I would rather be safe than sorry.

Thanks
Brett
 
Well sure. Consider it done. I won't charge you anything for that. Its on me my friend.

STR
 
Well, thank you very much. I certainly didn't expect that at all. It is much appreciated however.

Brett
 
Its no trouble really. I had the stuff here in the house so its already done as I'm sitting here watchin' Dateline.

What I've done for those that don't follow is simply this. (see pic I borrowed from another thread on the Spyderco forum)

STR
 
No problem. I got your knife knocked out finally.

It rides as low as I can get one and still make the clip comfortable.

STR
 
Just a brief comment on Spydercos new Military in CPMD2, in case you haven't had one in your shop yet. I bought mine new and was very amazed how friggin sharp the factory edge was. I looked at the edge with a 10x lupe and saw how aggresive and shallow the edge was ground. After a few days of typical use, I looked at the edge again with the lupe and saw that the edge had significantly degrades, micro chips, I think you called them. Anyway, I took my Edge pro Apex and set the angle to 18 degress and reprofiled the edge, as you showed in your photo attachment. Big improvement!

Question, what's your best method of knocking off the burr edge on some of these new fangled stainless steels? I find that both S30V and the CPMD2 edge rolls so much without the edge breaking off, using the Sharpmaker, anyway.

Thanks for your time.
 
Usually I've found that after the medium stones on the sharpmaker that there is a tiny burr. You can either use it from there and knock it off in use on some steels or if its persistant sometimes I'll actually cut into a block of polishing compound, strop it hard on the back of a legal pad cardboard on a hard surface and cut into the compound somemore in a sawing motion not forcing it in deep but letting the blade slide back and forth.

Then I'll use the ceramic rod that came when I bought my Edge Pro. Whatever burr if any that is left is minimal. Even this method doesn't always work though and everyone has their own little trick to try to rid the knife edge of a burr so maybe some of the other tricks will be posted behind mine.

STR
 
My method for burr removal on the Sharpmaker is to make a few passes, usually 2 per side, on the corners of the medium rods at an increased angle. I angle the knife so that these few strokes are at about 40 degrees-per-side. I make these passes very light to cut off the burr, and then make a few more light passes at the regular angle (holding knife vertical) to finish the edge. This can also be done on the fine rods.

I haven't checked my edges under high power magnification or anything, but this seems to create an edge that will hold up pretty well, so I assume I am cutting off the burr and leaving a strong edge.
 
HI Steve,
Very happy with the clip on my paramilitary. It's a great knife and is made better by the edge you put on it for me.

As always, you do great work.



Brett
 
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