I'm planning to purchase a PE para military as my EDC, I've noticed that it has "compression lock" oppose to the trade mark lock back. Anyone found any problem with compression lock? How durable is the blade, or any special issue with the knife overall? any input is welcome thanx
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Para military lock any good?
- Thread starter LowTEC
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mckrob
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- Jan 15, 2007
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I just bought one less than two weeks ago, so I can't comment too much on the durability, but from what I've heard this will not be a concern.
The "compression lock" has taken some getting used to, it's basically a liner lock but on the top, I find it a bit awkward as it's on the right side of the knife, and being right-handed it means that if I am going to use my thumb I have to turn the knife on it's side to unlock it. I think that once I get used to disengaging the lock with my index finger (as I am sure the designers intended) it will be much less "awkward".
The quality and feel (ergonomics and balance) of the knife is certainly top-notch, overall a great knife for the money.
The "compression lock" has taken some getting used to, it's basically a liner lock but on the top, I find it a bit awkward as it's on the right side of the knife, and being right-handed it means that if I am going to use my thumb I have to turn the knife on it's side to unlock it. I think that once I get used to disengaging the lock with my index finger (as I am sure the designers intended) it will be much less "awkward".
The quality and feel (ergonomics and balance) of the knife is certainly top-notch, overall a great knife for the money.
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I've had a PE Para for several months. I have no issues with mine at all. In fact, the Para has replaced my Ritter Grip that I used to take to the woods with me. The Para's open construction and light weight just can't be beat, IMAO. I love my Ritters, but for "take anything" toughness, I'll take the Para. The only place where I might give the edge to the Ritter Grip is at the point of the blade. The Ritter is a drop point, while the Para has more of Spyderco's "splinter-picker" point. Still, it's not as thin or fragile as the old D3/E3/Police style points. And it is S30V. Mine came with a high bevel and very... I say, VERY... sharp!
I'm right-handed but carry and use knives left-handed. The Para is fully ambi to me. I can use either my left thumb or right index finger to disengage the lock, since it's not real stiff. The knife is a very comfortable carry in LFP or IWB. The flat ground blade is a great slicer, even as thick as it is.
The Comp lock does resemble a liner lock, but only at first glance. What happens is that a lock bar is inserted between the shelf on the blade tang and the stop pin. That provides a thick vertical slab of metal that holds the blade firmly in place. The stress is placed on the lock bar vertically, where the lock bar is the thickest. In a liner lock, the stress is placed differently and a poorly executed model can release under sufficient stress. I don't see this happening with a compression lock that is working properly.
There have been some reported instances of minor blade play, but most people have been able to resolve this by tightening the stop pin torx screws. This was true in my case. Once I got the pivot adjusted to my liking, I had some play. That was easily resolved by tightening the stop pin screws.
Happy slicing...
I'm right-handed but carry and use knives left-handed. The Para is fully ambi to me. I can use either my left thumb or right index finger to disengage the lock, since it's not real stiff. The knife is a very comfortable carry in LFP or IWB. The flat ground blade is a great slicer, even as thick as it is.
The Comp lock does resemble a liner lock, but only at first glance. What happens is that a lock bar is inserted between the shelf on the blade tang and the stop pin. That provides a thick vertical slab of metal that holds the blade firmly in place. The stress is placed on the lock bar vertically, where the lock bar is the thickest. In a liner lock, the stress is placed differently and a poorly executed model can release under sufficient stress. I don't see this happening with a compression lock that is working properly.
There have been some reported instances of minor blade play, but most people have been able to resolve this by tightening the stop pin torx screws. This was true in my case. Once I got the pivot adjusted to my liking, I had some play. That was easily resolved by tightening the stop pin screws.
Happy slicing...
If you get a compression lock and really look at it, you will notice that it is a lock that is almost perfect. It wont fail, unless the pivot or handle breaks, which is very unlikely. I have made all locks fail except the Compression or Frame Locks.
I have 3 Para's and they are all great, I also have a few other compression lock models, and I would almost guarantee that it is the best knife lock ever made.
It has already been said and well documented how it works. Though if we take a look at a Linear lock, or Frame Lock. we need to ask ourselves. Why do these fail. If we Baton a knife with one of these locks, the shock hits the blade and the resonance goes right into the lock/handle causing Harmonic Motion. On a Linear/Frame Lock, the resonance causes the lock to wiggle, it waves, and theses waves are what causes the knife to fail. What I mean is take a Thiner cheap handsaw and put it in a vice and pull one side down, let go and you will see the motion of the leaner/frame. The motion is horizontal on these locks, meaning the the lock actually always moves on or off the tang and this causes the lock to fail if given enough pressure or if you hit it just right.
A Lockback has the same resonance, though it relys on the spring to hold it down, and we all know springs are prone to resonance or Harmonic Motion, so if the spring is build well enough it is not a problem, though I have made Lock backs fail, it has never been a Spyderco, they are very well built.
Now to the compression lock, if we look at it, the lock takes the same resonance from batoning, though the way the lock is implemented, the lock has a vertical resonance, which in our uses only helps us. The Vertical motion is dampened by the tang and the stop pin. It is a brilliant Design.
It does resemble the Axis lock, but is very different, because the Axis lock Bar can actually roll off the tang with enough pressure, though a Compression Lock Cant, because it is stuck between the stop pin and tang.
I hope this helps in your reassurance, the Compression lock is one of the best knife locks you can buy, I have 3 Para and Love them all. Also look at the Spyderco Lil ' Temp if you can find one.
Good luck.
I have 3 Para's and they are all great, I also have a few other compression lock models, and I would almost guarantee that it is the best knife lock ever made.
It has already been said and well documented how it works. Though if we take a look at a Linear lock, or Frame Lock. we need to ask ourselves. Why do these fail. If we Baton a knife with one of these locks, the shock hits the blade and the resonance goes right into the lock/handle causing Harmonic Motion. On a Linear/Frame Lock, the resonance causes the lock to wiggle, it waves, and theses waves are what causes the knife to fail. What I mean is take a Thiner cheap handsaw and put it in a vice and pull one side down, let go and you will see the motion of the leaner/frame. The motion is horizontal on these locks, meaning the the lock actually always moves on or off the tang and this causes the lock to fail if given enough pressure or if you hit it just right.
A Lockback has the same resonance, though it relys on the spring to hold it down, and we all know springs are prone to resonance or Harmonic Motion, so if the spring is build well enough it is not a problem, though I have made Lock backs fail, it has never been a Spyderco, they are very well built.
Now to the compression lock, if we look at it, the lock takes the same resonance from batoning, though the way the lock is implemented, the lock has a vertical resonance, which in our uses only helps us. The Vertical motion is dampened by the tang and the stop pin. It is a brilliant Design.
It does resemble the Axis lock, but is very different, because the Axis lock Bar can actually roll off the tang with enough pressure, though a Compression Lock Cant, because it is stuck between the stop pin and tang.
I hope this helps in your reassurance, the Compression lock is one of the best knife locks you can buy, I have 3 Para and Love them all. Also look at the Spyderco Lil ' Temp if you can find one.
Good luck.
At first I did not like the compression lock. I immediately saw that it was a great design, almost fail-proof, but I did not like the way you disengage it. Once I got used to pinching the lock with my thumb and index finger to disengage it, the Para-Military became my favorite knife. Still is.
The fact that the Para is a tough knife with a strong lock and fairly lightweight makes it perfect for EDC.
I had some blade play but dalefuller mentioned I was able to fix it by tightening the stop pin.
The fact that the Para is a tough knife with a strong lock and fairly lightweight makes it perfect for EDC.
I had some blade play but dalefuller mentioned I was able to fix it by tightening the stop pin.
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The only thing that I don't like about my Para is when the knife is closed and clipped in the pocket, that sharp square corner at the back edge of the blade is tough on the hand going into that pocket. I've seen guys do a radius there to break that corner with a stone but I haven't done it to mine yet
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- Nov 25, 2005
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I have a Para Mil, the compression lock is very secure but takes some getting used to, I rotate it in and out of my EDC lineup and it takes most of the day before I can pull it out of my pocket and flick it open without thinking about it. It opens and closes very easily, good knife overall, just very different than every other knife I use.
Actually, I don't like the Para either. But not because of the lock (the compression lock is probably my favorite lock, period), and not of fit and finish issues (the Para has a very nice feel to it). It just won't fit my hand comfortably. To grip it without the finger choil, the handle is too short and with the finger choil it is almost too long and the finger choil is not large enough, but that is just me. The ergos seem to be fine for most people.
I have a titnium atr and it has blade play. I don't think it matters much other than driving me crazy(the play). I sent it in to spyderco and they said they could not relieve the problem. I was offered a credit, but haven't made up my mind totally yet. The para might be diferent, but I have heard of other blade play issue with the lock in general before. I, myself, like the lock alot and would still trust it as is. -Just can't stand that blade play though...
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- May 2, 2006
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i have had a Para for a month now, and I absolutely love it. The compression lock might seem awkward on the top, but it really isn't.
lambertiana
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The compression lock took some getting used to, but now it is my favorite lock. I like it better than any linerlock, framelock, lockback, or axis lock that I have ever handled. It is very easy to use and very reliable. And the Para is a great design, too.
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- Mar 28, 2007
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+1, never cared for the lock