I have a paragon 24km kiln. I ran it for the first time yesterday (bought new) and it heated up to about 650 F in an hour then to 900 in 2 hours and 1050 in 3, 1100 in 4 then it gave me the Firing to Long error. I tried testing the voltage and am getting a full 240 volts. I tried running it again and opening it in the dark to see if the elements were glowing. I couldnt tell that they were. From the manual it says it could be the elements, the relay or low amperage. But I don't have the right tool to check the amps. How do I check the others to tell the reason its not heating properly?
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Paragon Help
- Thread starter Jrmysell
- Start date
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Aug 20, 2004
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If you are electrically inclined, a ohm reading of the coils with everything turned off will help tell if the coils have burned out of broken.
A good visual check with a bright LED flashlight may spot the break, too.
If the coils look good, other things to check are:
1) Take off the control box cover ( power disconnected) and inspect the wires from the SSR to the coil lugs. Is everything in place and snug?
2) Check all fuses on the controller to see if one is blown.
Check the DC wires from the controller to the SSR.
3) Check that the door interlock switch isn't moved/broken and thus is in the out/open (not conducting) position all the time. It should be depressed/closed ( conducting) when the door is closed.
If those are all OK .....
IF YOU KNOW ELECTRICITY,
Test the DC voltage at the SSR with the controller in the RUN setting (running the program). There should be a voltage somewhere between 3 and 90 DC volts present. If that is good, the controller is working right.
Next, check the AC voltage between the coil lugs. It should read 220 volts. If that reading is good, you have a burned out coil.
If the SSR AC output is zero (read at the coil lugs, the SSR or the wiring from it to the coil lugs is bad.
Then check the AC voltage at the SSR ( with the controller in the ru==RUN setting). Screw #1 should read 120V when referenced to ground/neutral, or 220 VAC when measured to the second hot leg (not to screw #2). If that is good, check the voltage at screw #2. It should also read the same. If it is only reading at one screw , then the SSR is bad.
A good visual check with a bright LED flashlight may spot the break, too.
If the coils look good, other things to check are:
1) Take off the control box cover ( power disconnected) and inspect the wires from the SSR to the coil lugs. Is everything in place and snug?
2) Check all fuses on the controller to see if one is blown.
Check the DC wires from the controller to the SSR.
3) Check that the door interlock switch isn't moved/broken and thus is in the out/open (not conducting) position all the time. It should be depressed/closed ( conducting) when the door is closed.
If those are all OK .....
IF YOU KNOW ELECTRICITY,
Test the DC voltage at the SSR with the controller in the RUN setting (running the program). There should be a voltage somewhere between 3 and 90 DC volts present. If that is good, the controller is working right.
Next, check the AC voltage between the coil lugs. It should read 220 volts. If that reading is good, you have a burned out coil.
If the SSR AC output is zero (read at the coil lugs, the SSR or the wiring from it to the coil lugs is bad.
Then check the AC voltage at the SSR ( with the controller in the ru==RUN setting). Screw #1 should read 120V when referenced to ground/neutral, or 220 VAC when measured to the second hot leg (not to screw #2). If that is good, check the voltage at screw #2. It should also read the same. If it is only reading at one screw , then the SSR is bad.