Off Topic Parameters for a folder

K.O.D.

K.O.D.

Sell your cloak buy a sword
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I know there have been threads in the past similar to this, but I prefer not to be a necromancer.

What I ask is this:

What "guidelines" do you have when shopping for a new folder?

What are your absolute deal breakers?

My deal breakers:

Tip down only clip
Assisted
S30V

Preference:

Under 5oz
3.5" or less blade length
No black bladed or other "tactifool" looking features.
Something other than framelock
Thin, flat ground, slicy blade, or a high hollow grind.

How often do y'all break your parameters? I just broke several in my latest purchase.
 
In terms of importance:
1. Reputation of the manufacturer including warranty. At present, I mainly buy ZT, Spyderco, and Benchmade. Occasionally I may pick up a Hinderer, CRK, or Reate.
2. Blade steel and overall looking of the knife
3. Price. I have bought >$300 and <$30 ones but currently my comfortable zone is $100-$250.
4. Blade length. I prefer 3-4".
5. Handle material. Not a huge factor, but generally I prefer cf and ti.
 
Well it depends on what I'm looking for or if it's an impulse buy, but here some general guidelinnes for me:

good steel usually m390, 20cv, s35vn etc. m4 is great but you just need to be mindful of corrosion--I am seriously considering the BladeHQ Spyderco Military in cpm-m4

nice sturdy thickness say from .140" to .185" or so. Anything thicker becomes clownish and anything thinner I fear may not hold up

a good locking mechanism--framelock or liner lock, compression, maybe axis lock are all fine but since I use it at work, no slipjoints etc.

blade no shorter than 3.25" and really no larger than around 4.25"

I prefer un coated but if I really like it I can tolerate DLC/Cerakote etc.

tip up carry clip or at least the option to do so. I understand the Military is tip-down, but it is a great knife that is not made tip up so that's okay. Tip up lets me open it it one motion with one hand instead of two. Not a huge deal--more of a convenience

I usually prefer flippers but the Military is breaking all of my other rules so why not this one =)

a reliable brand--no ozark or ganzo clones for me (dealbreaker)

no serrations. ever. (dealbreaker)

a tip that doesn't dwindle away into nothing. Hollow grinds that do not have a compound flat ground tip are out. High hollow grinds are sadly a dealbreaker. (They cut and slice sooooo well though) Again the Millie has a thin-ish tip but it seems to be ok

flat or sabre grind

choils are okay--large enough for a finger or a sharpening notch are fine. When the blade terminates at the plunge grind w/ no break that is usually a dealbreaker. The Millie gets a pass b/c Spyderco executes the plunge propelry (usually). Many companies make it way too thick

drop point, spear point --exceptions are "spanto" and the tanto "harpoon" Hinderers I own. I would get a wharncliffe as well. (in any brand not just Hinderer)

"Loud and gaudy" knives are dealbreakers as are pocket clips with skulls or whatever else bolted on them. Goodbye comfort; hello hot spot! I would add spring-assisted to the dealbreaker list too.

I will add some more if I think of any!
 
Good cost to value ratio. This is hugely variable, and mostly my personal opinion.

3/16" thick blade. I wish there were more of them on production folders.

Cutting edges between 2.75" and 3.5". More is too much for me, less gets lost in a deep cut.

Full flat grinds are a no-go. I'm a knuckle-dragger, and thin blades scare me.

Serrations don't impress me. My mini CQC-7 has them, but.... it talked to me. So that's the exception.

Tanto points and recurves. I don't care for them. I want a wharncliffe, I just haven't found one.

G-10, Micarta, or some metal for scales. I like my artificial, post-industrial revolution materials.

Strong pocket clip. I don't jump out of airplanes, but if I did, I would want to know that my knife was still there.

Locking blades. Again, knuckle-dragger.

There are others, but that's enough to disqualify most production knives. I'll end up going full-custom eventually, because I'll price myself right out of the production market.
 
I just want a good inexpensive high value folder that's all business, I'm not interested in the latest and greatest steels materials or technologies that make a knife more expensive than I need them to be to cut stuff.
I prefer them to be lightweight , generally with a smaller than a 3" blade.
 
1st thing that catches my attention is design.
Be it a worker or casual knife, the design; grinds and lines: has to tickle my fancy.

2nd = Reputation + materials vs. Price.
$100+ for aus8, 420hc, 8crXYZ, nope...
$50+ for an unheard of company that has 2 reviews on the entire internet, nope.
$25 for full ti and s35vn, nope.
I may take risk on an unknown brand for a fair price, I might buy a cheap knife for a cheap price, or a quality knife for a quality price, but the x's and o's gotta line up right, and the purchase has to make sense.

And those are my biggest two deal breakers.
Obviously I won't buy it if I simply don't like the looks of it, regardless of their build quality or reputation.

And if the price is too good to be true for a "great" knife, or exhorbantly high for a very basic knife, I have a tough time rationalizing the purchase.

Other then that I do prefer over 3" and under 4", but there is still -/+ wiggle room if I really like the design and the price seems right.
 
No frame or liner locks, no recurve blades, no metal handles. I just broke this rule and got a ZT 0920. I love it, but it will likely be my only framelock.

My folders must have strong, reliable lock, good steel, a finger guard, and be fairly light. I have found the Cold Steel Recon and PM2 to be the two knives to best meet my criteria.
 
Deal breakers:
Weight over 5 ounces
Illegal to carry in Texas
Pocket clips that tear up upholstery
Proprietary fasteners

Preferences:
Something other than a frame lock
Thin behind the edge
Non-abrasive handle material
Simple blade grinds
Washers rather than bearings
Non-flipper
CPM154/154CM

Occasionally I'll overlook my weight limit. Steel handled balisongs and the Rajah II come to mind. They're not going to be carried, I just like them. Hopefully the "illegal knife" bill passes and I'll get to drop that one from the list.
 
I look to make sure my new knife is just about like one of these but with even better blade steel (which to me would be M4 or M390). Since that does not exist. Even the two knives in the photo do not exist outside my collection (that I know of) . . .
well then everything else is just a compromise.
I compromise all the time.
When I want to "come home" I grab one of these. Don't knock them 'till you've tried them.

Yes both ground quite thin and slicy.
 
I'm a simple guy with simple rules. All knives I purchase, I purchase to be users. As such:
Deal Breakers:
-Illegal in Canada (Autos/OTFs, balisongs, gravity knives)
-< 3" or > 4" blade length (with close to, if not the same edge length)
-Non-locking
-2 handed opening
-Poor value (law of diminishing returns)
-Chisel grind
-Fixed Blade

Preferences:
-~3.5" blade length
-Not spear point
-No preference on bushings, but if washers, metal>polymer/teflon
-Screw together construction rather than pinned (for user maintenance)
-Deep carry, tip up.

My latest purchase, my 0452CF, breaks my length criteria. However, the aesthetic of the blade and the knife as a whole combined with the materials that went into making it (Carbon fiber and S35VN), and for what I thought was a reasonable price of just a bill over $300CDN make it my only exception (thus far).
 
Last edited:
Shorttime said:
Good cost to value ratio. This is hugely variable, and mostly my personal opinion.

3/16" thick blade. I wish there were more of them on production folders.

Cutting edges between 2.75" and 3.5". More is too much for me, less gets lost in a deep cut.

Full flat grinds are a no-go. I'm a knuckle-dragger, and thin blades scare me.

Serrations don't impress me. My mini CQC-7 has them, but.... it talked to me. So that's the exception.

Tanto points and recurves. I don't care for them. I want a wharncliffe, I just haven't found one.

G-10, Micarta, or some metal for scales. I like my artificial, post-industrial revolution materials.

Strong pocket clip. I don't jump out of airplanes, but if I did, I would want to know that my knife was still there.

Locking blades. Again, knuckle-dragger.

There are others, but that's enough to disqualify most production knives. I'll end up going full-custom eventually, because I'll price myself right out of the production market.
Click to expand...

What did you think about the P-SARK, given you have a cqc-7? It's almost a wharnie. But yeah, I agree, there's a slight recurve but um... it'll buff out? :D
 
The CQC-7... talked to me.

That sounds loony, even to me, but I'm in safe company, here.

I can't, for the life of me, give any good, rational reason why I bought it. I suppose it's the same thing that makes people bring home stray dogs, and old Alfa-Romeo cars. :D

As for the P-SARK, I would skip it. Recurves are difficult to sharpen, and my considered opinion is that the Wave should be an optional extra.

Unless you meet one in person, and it comes home with you. Some things defy logic.
 
Deal-breakers:
-Frame lock.
-Liner lock.
-Coated blade.
-Combo edge.
-Black handles.

Deal-makers:
-One-handed opening.
-One-handed closing.
-Back/mid lock.
-FFG.
- < $120.
 
Talking only OHO Folders here...

Deal breakers:
Weight over 1.5 ounces per 1 inch blade
Frame locks, liner locks
Tip down only
Proprietary fasteners, screws, etc.
Metal, wood or Ti handle
Thin, fragile tip

Preferences:
Back lock, axis lock
Thin behind the edge, or nice slicey grind
G10, FRN, Grivory, GRN
Corrosion resistant/coated steel
Non-flipper
 
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