Paramilitary 2 needs cleaning?

L

LJTanzer

Joined
Aug 4, 2013
Messages
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I have had my PM2 for about 8 years and for whatever reasons it has hardly seen any use.
I carried it today and realized the compression lock seems to stick when closing. It needs a little pressure to engage and makes a "click" upon releasing the blade.
Should I take it apart and clean it?
Thanks.
 
Blast it with some carb or brake cleaner first. Then rinse in hot water, and then blast with some WD-40. I'd bet that solves your issue without the need to disassemble.
 
Mine gets clicky (sticky) when I clean it, so that's kind of interesting. If it's oil or junk causing it, it could be either on the lock bar or the tang or both. You can clean the tang without taking it apart with a q tip wiping that spot when it's closed. If you don't want to take it apart, I'd first cycle it while wiping that area each time. To clean the lock bar, you will have to take it apart though.
 
shane45-1911 said:
Blast it with some carb or brake cleaner first. Then rinse in hot water, and then blast with some WD-40. I'd bet that solves your issue without the need to disassemble.
Click to expand...
While I understand your premise, I would highly advise in not doing this.

Those cleaners are hard on plastics and painted surfaces, let alone toxic to humans and the environment. Also, WD40 will leave a residue that attracts dirt, which will further gunk up your knife internals.

Hot soapy water, maybe some diluted Simple Green, lots of hot water flushing.

After, use compressed air or a fan that moves a lot of air to dry the internals you can't reach with a dry cotton or microfiber rag.

A drop of oil on each side of the inner pivot and you should be good to go.

If there is a ton of gunk, it might be better to disassemble, but be forewarned the lanyard tube is a pain, and PM2s are kinda finicky going back together.
 
MolokaiRider said:
While I understand your premise, I would highly advise in not doing this.

Those cleaners are hard on plastics and painted surfaces, let alone toxic to humans and the environment. Also, WD40 will leave a residue that attracts dirt, which will further gunk up your knife internals.

Hot soapy water, maybe some diluted Simple Green, lots of hot water flushing.

After, use compressed air or a fan that moves a lot of air to dry the internals you can't reach with a dry cotton or microfiber rag.

A drop of oil on each side of the inner pivot and you should be good to go.

If there is a ton of gunk, it might be better to disassemble, but be forewarned the lanyard tube is a pain, and PM2s are kinda finicky going back together.
Click to expand...

G10 and FRN are not affected by harsh chemicals. And I suggested WD40 to remove any remaining water after rinsing it.

I did not mention to re-lube after all that, and should have.
 
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Hardly used? Compressed air is your friend. Then flick it a dozen times or so.
 
Even if it has hardly been used, pocket lint, hand oil, and sweating on it over the years can take a toll if it has been in and out of your pocket for 8 years. If I were you I would invest in some quality torx bits, preferably Wiha bits (they really arent that expensive) and take the knife apart. The good news is that with the exception of the lanyard tube, PM2s aren't that hard to get apart. Get some regular rubbing alcohol from a drug store and a rag and wipe it down.

Throw some oil in the pivot and the contact surfaces of the lock and the tang of the blade and you should be good to go. You might be able to get away with some of the other options above that dont require taking the knife down but after 8 years of carry, you are going to want to do this at some time and now that you are seeing issues you might as well get it out of the way now.
 
1. lots of good information in this thread.
2. the original WD40 is a water displacer. Now the company also makes lubricants.
3. I do not know whether the knife has been a daily carry, carried in a sheath, carried in a pocket picking up dust bunnies, slightly rusted, and so forth.
I have stopped buying and restoring used knives (with an emphasis on Spydercos). However, I describe what I do. It is not better, just a first approach. If I see rust, I know that I might have a problem. So the knife is not disassembled. It is soaked overnight in vinegar, knowing that there might be rust under the scales. If no apparent rust, the knife is soaked in 70% isopropyl for a while. I take cotton que tips and squeeze them with a pair of pliers. I use a soaked and squashed tip to clean repeatedly. I will then sun dry the knife. Then a lubricant is applied. It could be anything from a thin silicone to 3 in 1 to olive oil. If the rust free knife is not operating properly, then I will have to disassemble or make adjustments.
 
Search Youtube for disassembly videos on the Paramiltary 2. It's easy if you see a video, and prepare yourself with the right tools (quality Torx bits from Wiha or Wera). Nick Shabazz has a bunch of disassembly videos that are great.
 
I would also advise against using WD40. Yes, it is a water dispersant but it leaves a fine film of slicky oils mixture that with the time becomes very gunky and it's hard to remove.
Their other line of products called "Specialist" is truly outstanding, I was using particularly the one that prevents rust (Spray and Stay Gel Lubricant) and it works like a charm in small amounts on knives.

Disassembling PM 2 isn't hard but most people have issues when they get to the insert for the lanyard hole - it is hard and tricky to remove and they are afraid that will break either the scales or the liner.

If you don't want to disassemble the knife, as many already suggested - hot water stream and some detergent will clean it, I would say - use some alcohol to flush the water out before you blast some compressed air.
I would also advise not to use air from a can because it blasts at one moment cold air that condenses on the metal surfaces inside the knife... Compressor will do it, besides after the alcohol takes the water away, it won't be much to dry.

I'd lubricate lightly with whatever you have handy, plenty suggestions in the thread, I'd use just small amount of Remoil or any of the Balistol flavors.
 
You don't have to remove the handle scales completely ... you can remove the pivot screw, and the handle screws, and then rotate the scale and keep the lanyard tube in place. The PM2 scales are are press fit onto the lanyard tubes, tight, so they are tricky to get loose. It requires just a bit of mechanical-spatial aptitude, so watch a couple videos first and decide if you want to learn this skill.

Agree that WD40 isn't the way to go. It's not very "clean"... can leave a gummy residue over time. And skip 3-in-1, too heavy.

About anything is better than WD40 or 3-in-1: Any gun oil will be fine (RemOil, Hoppes), or Breakfree CLP. You don't have to spend $$ on Nano-oil, or KPL (both are really very overpriced, but the little dripper bottles allow you to use it judiciously). Daiwa reel oil (for fishing reels) is less expensive than KPL and Nano-Oil ... available on Amazon for about $11... has the nice little tiny dripper tube applicator, clean, light oil.
 
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