paramilitary

E

edb

Joined
Aug 30, 2002
Messages
740
I'm reformed... :D

Traded for a Paramilitary a few months ago, loved the size of the blade and the handle, but didn't trust the lock (well, actually, the detent to hold it closed). So, I traded it away. Got a Manix, loved it, but too big. Flopped around trading for a couple other Spydies, but kept thinking about the Para.

Finally decided to get another one, and it hasn't left my side pocket in over
a month. Hasn't opened in my pocket, and I very much doubt it will. So, for those out there who doubt the compression lock and detent to hold it closed, there's hope for you yet :D

Another one is on the way. Thanks Sal & Co for an excellent knife!
 
My experience was similiar, I got a para for a week from the pass around. I liked it all right while I had it but didn't think much about it. After I sent it on I kept thinking about that knife, what a nice size, how much I like the lock, the handle etc. Now I have my own and its my regular edc. It beats out my MT amphibian, Emerson cqc7, lightweight spydies, it an awesome knife.
 
Just got one, and I don't know how to carry it. In my right front pocket, the blade tang that sticks out scratches the heck outta my hand! Any one else have this problem?
 
Yep, that is why I changed my Para-Mil to tip up carry. IMO it should come that way or at least with the option to mount the clip either way. In this case I had to make a clip to work because of the curve of the body but it made it ride better and did away with the scratches. Didn't keep me from selling it though.

ModifiedPara-Military-copy-copy-copy.jpg
 
Are you willing to give me pointers on how to do exactly what you did with the clip. Tip up would make this knife perfect. How do you seat the threads?
 
To answer your question: for the way I do it, you need two button head 2-56 screws in a 1/4" length to mount them in just the handle scales only. If you buy longer ones you will need to shorten them. Mark the holes for the new clip and drill them out with a 1/16th drill bit. Normally for 2-56 screws you would use a #48 or a #51 drill but in FRN, G10 and Micarta I always make the hole a bit smaller in diameter to make the threader bite deeper and the screws hold better. You probably couldn't get away with a 1/16 drill in metal because it is too small a diameter and the threader would probably break but in the handle scale materials it works fine.

Once the holes are drilled out thread them with a taper 2-56 threader and take your time doing this by hand making sure not to put undue lateral stress on the threader or it will snap off on you and get stuck in the hole. If there is nothing there to grab when it breaks you just made a royal mess of things.

Buy more than one tapper just in case as they break very easily in this 2-56 size. And if you don't have a wrench for these tappers you'll need that too. They are cheap, like $6.95 each at Jantz supply or Texas knifemaker supply. Once threaded put the clip on and screw it down.

If you are one of those that do not trust the G10 to hold the threads by itself then simply buy 2-56 button head screws in a 1/2" length and make a small titanium or brass plate about 1/4" wide x 1/2" long in a .030 thickness and then mark, drill and tap that with threads. (Better to mark your holes and thread them before you cut out the small backing plate.) Then once you make a plate with two screw holes with threads cut the plate in half for two separate pieces. Screws are hard to find for me in that length in less than a 100 pack. $10 plus or minus there. Titanium is a 6" x 12" sheet in .30 thickness for about $22.50.

On the Para-Military there is plenty of space inside the handle where the blade seats for this backing plate to rest. Push the screws through the holes and screw them into the backing plates one after the other. If you do it this way the holes will need to be 3/32 for the scale though and a #51 or #48 for the backing plate before you can thread it. Don't try to thread the backing plate with a 1/16 hole. You'll just break the tap. The blade won't hit the backing plates when you close the knife because there is ample room for it in the handle, so it will not even be noticed mounted in there on the Para-Military.

Only thing you may end up with is some excess where the tip of the screws are hanging out. In that case mark with a black or red felt tip and then grind off the excess and thread them back in. Personally I prefer a cut off disc for this but if you don't have one a grinder should work. Also, because the threads are going to be tight, the hex head screw may strip on you so you may need to use a cut off to slot the heads for a flat head to make the first set seat. Then after you have them make the path you can add the ones with hex heads or just leave the first set if it doesn't bother you having the slots for the flat head on the screws.




HTH. I think I covered it all.

Note: Edited to keep the peace
 
Please, no more business/transaction talk on this forum gentlemen. Take it to email or PMs.

Thanks.
 
There. I edited it out Carlos. You could have just asked me to do that in a PM. I had it in my head that 'platinum members' were allowed to sell on the forum but I re-read the benefits. My bad.
 
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