Parkerized coatings...

B

barber oregon

Joined
Nov 19, 2000
Messages
234
I have a recently-made pilot survial knife made by the Ontario knife company (1999). It seems that everytime I remove the knife from its sheath some of the parkerized coating gets scratched off.

I know the trick of using a little sewing machine oil to "revive" the coating but I'm not sure if this will prevent the coating from coming off or how the oil would affect the sharpening stones.

Is there any way of preventing this from happening (short of getting a replacement sheath)?
 
Hmmm I dont think that to oil you put on your blade is enough to harm the sharpening stone, I have the same knife, the problem isnt your leather, its you hitting th knife on the metal fittings, or thats my theroy at least.
 
a knife like that is considered disposable to the military and thus, finishes are not every important. Parkerization does two things. It subdues the blade so that id does not reflect light, and, the texture helps keep preservative oils on the blade. No matter what sheath you use to store your knife, the finishing will wear. It might wear less if you use a nylon type sheath, but if it's lined with Kydex, you will notice some wear as well. The only way of removing the unsightly marks is to remove the parkerization altogether.

However, there is something the Japanese call "Wabi" which is when a tool is used, it culminates a certain amount of wear (or breaking in) which gives the object beauty and prestige.

As inexpensive as the knife is, I suggest that you simply live with the scratches and use it in good health.
 
and about the stone... it's a norton oilstone... you're supposed to use oil on it. 3-in-1, sewing oil, or regular honing oil will do fine.
 
I've seen those crap pieces from Ontario. Even seconds from Cold Steel would work better.
I've seen an Ontario M9 that the parkerizing rubs off with your finger, and a wire edge so bad that I could see it with my eyes (Note: my eyes are 20/20+)
Save your efforts and get a Becker, you could find a decent blade for $50USD or so.
 
well, in defense of Ontario...

The Bayonet is something different altogether... Parkerization is sort of an acid corrosion of steel. Carbon steel and Stainless steel react differently to such an acid bath. As I recall, the M9 is made of 420 stainless. You also can't hold bayonets to the same standards as knives. The concept behind the Bayonet being a knife... You want a knife capable of withstanding the thrusting and leveraging of what is essentially a 7 inch blade with a 4 foot handle. The knife must withstand the swinging and prying force behind thrusts and parrys and may in fact be trust into the ground, trees, or bodies and then the rifle swung back and forth in order to "unstick" the bayonet. Any knife made to hold a good hard edge will not hold up to such use, and any good bayonet built to withstand such use will not hold a "hair-popping" edge. So, you make the best compromise you can. In the end, many who must carry a bayonet for their rifle also carry a good field knife as well.

As an aside, I remember seeing quite a few M-7 Bayonets break with rough use, although they did take a good edge.
 
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