Parts for Spyderco Knives

[ebnash]

I have an older Lum Chinese Folder and attempted to strip it down to clean and lube. The pivot screw seized in the pivot pin and I had to drill it out. I know I can source a screw with no issues, but where can I get a replacement pivot and bushings???

Thanks

 

[9blades]

Figure out the pivot and bushing size and try a knife making supplier like alpha knife supplies or usa knifemaker
They should have what you need.

 

[ebnash]

Figure out the pivot and bushing size and try a knife making supplier like alpha knife supplies or usa knifemaker
They should have what you need.

Problem with this one is that the pivot has a hex spline shoulder to anchor it in the aluminum scale and then the screw comes through the other side. I really need to have the original part or I will have to start modifying the knife. It has some sentimental value, otherwise I would just butcher it to make it work.

Maybe I will call Spyderco or I will have to wait for a cheap beater donor to show up...

 

[tiguy7]

If that faceted shoulder is the same as the one they used to use on the Military, you will have a tough time replacing it. The spindle was offset so you could rotate it to move the blade toward or away from the lock (leaf) spring. The faceted shoulder let you keep the offset in the desired position. As the surfaces wore, you could could move them closer together.

 

[ebnash]

If that faceted shoulder is the same as the one they used to use on the Military, you will have a tough time replacing it. The spindle was offset so you could rotate it to move the blade toward or away from the lock (leaf) spring. The faceted shoulder let you keep the offset in the desired position. As the surfaces wore, you could could move them closer together.

Pivot is symmetrical, the real issue is this octagonal spline. I have been working the pivot for an hour, drilling it out hoping to relieve the screw and get it out, but it is fused to the threads and wont move. If I only had to replace a screw, it would be easy to solve. I would actually like to get new pivot and thrust washers as well. Waiting to hear back from Spyderco now, but I have a feeling they will want me to send in the knife for repair instead of sending me parts...

Wish me luck

 

[tiguy7]

Sometimes if you drill a R/H screw with a L/H drill (running counter clockwise), it will snag the screw and back it out. That sucker is most likely Loc-tited.

 

[ebnash]

Yeah, unfortunately broke my extractor doing just that. Now I am just grinding with a Dremel to get the screw sidewall paper thin enough I can run a tap to clean the threads. Stainless on stainless is very susceptible to galling so I am not sure it will be saved...

 

[tiguy7]

If the threads are glued (Loc-tite), some heat will soften the glue. I don't know what the head of the T-nut looks like, but a R/H drill run through from the head side might snag what's left of the screw and push it out ahead of the drill.