Passivating ZT 0551 rusted liners?

[Noctis3880]

My ZT 0551 was one of the first production with the rusted liner issue. I had sent it off to Kershaw under the warranty, but I guess either they missed what I wrote about the liners or they thought it was under "normal wear and tear" and left it. Due to the complicated issues regarding the turnaround shipping, I figured maybe I could try something at home.

I've read about "passivating" stainless steel and how it was necessary because iron fillings might be stuck on the surface and cause it to rust aggressively, which would explain why the liners continued to rust even though I've polished it to a near mirror finish.

I figured I could do a "home solution" where I spray the liners with Easy Off to force the formation of a chromium oxide layer and soak it in baking soda and water afterwards. What I'm not sure of is how effective this is and how long I should let it sit in the Easy Off. Don't want to end up with weakened liners.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Easy Off contains sodium hydroxide-(lye) which is an alkali. Baking soda is also an alkali.
I doubt it will be effective.

 

[mr2blue]

I sent mine to jeff forbush here on bf and he blasted the liners and ceracoated all the bare metal parts. It came out great and i will never have to worry about corrosion

 

[Noctis3880]

Easy Off contains sodium hydroxide-(lye) which is an alkali. Baking soda is also an alkali.
I doubt it will be effective.

Hmm, and I thought Easy Off had both acids and sodium hydroxide. What about cutting into a lemon/lime and letting it sit? I recall someone saying that sodium hydroxide actually eats up metal, which I'm guessing is why my smoothed out liners continue to rust(because of loose iron still on the surface).

I sent mine to jeff forbush here on bf and he blasted the liners and ceracoated all the bare metal parts. It came out great and i will never have to worry about corrosion

I think it might be simpler and cheaper for me to ask the warranty department for another liner. I was merely looking for a more immediately available solution.

 

[jforbush]

I sent mine to jeff forbush here on bf and he blasted the liners and ceracoated all the bare metal parts. It came out great and i will never have to worry about corrosion

Thanks man!!! I still get emails about that knife from my website and the boards!

 

[bhyde]

Just a thought..A previous shop I worked at passivated using vinegar. Seemed to work alright on 420 stainless (not a knife, but a part that I made).

 

[me2]

Passivation must be done with an oxidizing acid. The most common ones I know of are hydrochloric, nitric, and citric. Reducing acids, like sulphuric acid, will not work and are highly corrosive to normal stainless. The classic treatment for stainless processing lines is to use boiling, red, nitric acid, aka red death. Not recommended for home treatment. Some guys I worked with on pharmacy lines used hot citric acid. Acetic acid (vinegar) is probably oxidizing as well. Try cleaning the parts really well, degrease w/ acetone, then boiling in acetic or citric acid. After boiling, neutralize the liners and wash thoroughly. I've seen 316L stainless pipes form rouge/rust through an entire system in less than 2 weeks service because of passivating acids that were not properly removed. Stop-sign-red water leaking out of your new closed loop system is not a good sign.