Patching insulboard lined forge

Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
2,986
one of my old gassers is a square body two burner lined with insulboard(diamondback) I need it to last a bit longer but because of age and body conditions completely relining is out of the question. Problem is that I’ve found over the years despite prolonged drying etc satanite and itc just won’t sticj to the insulboard worth a crap.
What are some other products I can use that might stick better
 
Kentucky
I wish I had a tried and proven method for patching your insulation board but I don't. The best I can do is suggest you call the manufacturer and ask them.
Jim A.
 
Wetting the insboard well before applying the patch helps a lot.
Simplest patch - Cut out or dig out the worst area and replace it with a patch of 1/2" inswool and satanite (see below).

A bit more work, but easy to do - Use rammable refractory to patch insboard. I put a whole new bottom in my NC Forge this way. It allowed me to curve the bottom up onto the sides a bit to get a tad of swirl, too.

Another option is to apply a 1/2" thick inswool lining and satanite over all the insboard. The 1/2" stuff is pretty cheap, and a Diamondback could be relined for less than $50.
Here is a source:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kaowool-1-...ulation-Blanket-8-Muffler-Stove-/191984962522

A third option is to place 1/2" insboard over the current lining. it runs around $15 a sq.ft. from HTT&R.

A final tip is a trick I use to hold refractory on covers for vertical forges:
Run short coarse thread drywall screws into the insboard through the wool to anchor it before covering with satanite.
On a round metal lid to a forge, I tack welded the screw heads to the steel top with the points sticking out, and pressed the wool down on them. I worked a thin slurry of satanite in first, then finished with the normal 1/4" to 3/8" coating.
Drywall screws come as short as 1/2", BTW.
 
Wetting the insboard well before applying the patch helps a lot.
Simplest patch - Cut out or dig out the worst area and replace it with a patch of 1/2" inswool and satanite (see below).

A bit more work, but easy to do - Use rammable refractory to patch insboard. I put a whole new bottom in my NC Forge this way. It allowed me to curve the bottom up onto the sides a bit to get a tad of swirl, too.

Another option is to apply a 1/2" thick inswool lining and satanite over all the insboard. The 1/2" stuff is pretty cheap, and a Diamondback could be relined for less than $50.
Here is a source:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kaowool-1-...ulation-Blanket-8-Muffler-Stove-/191984962522

A third option is to place 1/2" insboard over the current lining. it runs around $15 a sq.ft. from HTT&R.

A final tip is a trick I use to hold refractory on covers for vertical forges:
Run short coarse thread drywall screws into the insboard through the wool to anchor it before covering with satanite.
On a round metal lid to a forge, I tack welded the screw heads to the steel top with the points sticking out, and pressed the wool down on them. I worked a thin slurry of satanite in first, then finished with the normal 1/4" to 3/8" coating.
Drywall screws come as short as 1/2", BTW.
Which rammable refractory did you use Stacy?
 
Gosh, I don't really recall. I bought it off ebay. It was about ten years ago. I'll look at some listings a little later and see if I recognize it. Any rammable high temp refractory should work. The stuff I used was like modeling clay when I applied it.

I did more thinking and recalled that this type refractory is called Plastic refractory in industry. The stuff I got had a color name with it, and as far as I can recall was BLUE. I can't find that, but can find green and ruby.

These refractories are high alumina clays that cure in firing to a very resistant refractory that is used to line iron melting furnaces and other high temp things. They have 3000F and higher resistance, so they are great for welding forges. Because they are alumina, they are also flux resistant.
They are put in place by hand and then hammered or pounded to make them tight to the understructure. I used a 2X4 to whack it hard against the floor of the forge. I suspect just pressing it down tight by hand will also work.
 
Last edited:
Kentucky,
I didn't mention it, but I would be glad to fill a flat rate box with Cast-o-lite 30 and send it to you. That is really tough castable refractory. It make s great forge floors. Mix it up, spoon it in, spread it out, let it dry a couple days, fire slowly to cure as with satanite. Once cured at full heat it is impervious to heat up to 3000F and considers flux as suntan lotion.
 
Last edited:
Kentucky,
I didn't mention it, but I would be glad to fill a flat rate box with Cast-o-lite 30 and send it to you. That is really tough castable refractory. It make s great forge floors. Mix it up, spoon it in, spread it out, let it dry a couple days, fire slowly to cure as with satanite. Once cured at full heat it is impervious to heat up to 3000F and considers flux as suntan lotion.
That’s awful good of you to offer. I’ll send you a message when I get home from the doc tomorrow
 
Back
Top