Pattern Knives

[Dav]

I have a few questions from an old upstart that has a lot to learn about the trade! Is it worth my time (what little I have left) to learn my patterns on some old cold roll or should I use the actual stock that I wish to use for finished knives? I realize that the cutting speeds and finish will vary greatly from steel type to steel type but I don't want to spend some serious dollars and time on high grade material if I can practice on the cheap stuff. Can anyone give me any feed back on the SuperBee belt grinder. I've heard pros and cons from many an 'expert' but want to hear from you folk. I'd be obliged if you would respond.


Dileas Gu Brath

 

[L6steel]

Dav, a good cheap source for some fine blade steel is lumber mills. Call your local mills and see if they have any old saw blades laying around. They'll either give em to you or gladly swap a nice skinner for one. My first three years thats all I used. If no mills close, try a scrap yard. They get the blades sometimes. Might even want to try some old planer blades but you'll have to find out what the steel is. If you can't find any, email me. I still have lots of it left. Take care!! Michael

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!

 

[Jake Evans]

Also, check with any carpenters you know for old Skilsaw and tablesaw blades. You might also try machine shops for old power hacksaw blades, these are nice because of their width, saves a lot of cutting.

Jake

 

[Jerry Hossom]

Or, buy something good and make yourself do it carefully and right. Steel is cheap and you want the results to be valuable.

The problem with old saw blades and the like is that you have to anneal it, and then you are not always sure what you have. You can buy 6 feet of 3/16" x 1-1/2" #1095 steel from Admiral Steel for about $15. You can buy the same amount and size of 440C for about $45.

http://www.admiralsteel.com/

Heck, the grinding belts and handle material will cost as much as the steel.

And what's this "old" nonsense. I'm 60 and view myself at just the beginning of my knifemaking career. Have fun.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com

 

[T. J.]

I would suggest that you get some known steel even for practicing on. call the local tractor trailer repair place and see where they get their patch plates for springs. they are dirt cheap, and the manufacturer can verify for you what alloy it is. That way if you mess up a blade, your out a buck or two, no great loss. If however, you turn out a blade you really like, you will know exactly how to heat treat it so it will be a useable knife. best of both worlds. Save the saw blades and planer blades till you have some more experience and can tell a bit more about it.

James

 

[Yvsa]

:
Good advice!! You might do something like I did to get material.

I went to Tulsa Auto Spring, a local spring manufacturer, and bought 10 pounds of raw spring steel for $20.00.
I have 12 feet of material in 3 widths and thicknesses.

The problem I have is that I only know for sure what one of those steels are.
It is 1084 and marked by the manufacturer as such.
The realy nice thng about the simple carbon spring steels is that they all heat treat at simlar temps and the same with the draw as I understand it.

The foreman told me that they had no temp guages on their furnaces, the furnaces are preset and the steel stays in so long.
The steel is heated, shaped, reheated and then dropped into hot oil to make the springs. We all know how long a car or truck springs last and what kinds of knives the steel makes.

I was very satisfied at the price and know that the steel ranges between 1095 and 5160.
Does anyone think I will have a problem heat treating these steels?

Thanks.




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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

The hardy adventurer just drank from a stream he thought was pure glacier fed water not knowing that upstream was being used by a herd of yaks as a giant bidet.

I said he was hardy, not smart.

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