Paul - a question for you about your keeps (loops).

Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
7,443
PaulLong1.jpg


On a sheath such as the one on the bottom in the picture above.

How do you do the loop (keep) that wraps around to the front?

Do you cut it out of the belt loop or do you cut another strap and sew it in somehow?

Advice and pictures would be awesome - but I know you are a busy man - so I will take what I can get. :)

Thanks for being a teacher.

TF
 

Attachments

  • PaulLong1.jpg
    PaulLong1.jpg
    56.8 KB · Views: 55
Tal, a picture may be worth 1000 words. If this is not clear feel free to call me.

Paul
 
That's how I do mine(see below), only not so elegantly. Doing a couple as soon as some knives arrive so this is timely.

Paul, do you not stitch them in? I stitch the strap between where the belt loop gets stitched.

If I may piggyback a question? Dwayne mentions using a "shelf" to add some interference between the loop and difference in thickness between blade and handle, but I don't quite understand this. How do you make it so that a thick handle doesn't push on the loop? I've taken to adding welt thickness at the top (keeping retention with the shape of the welt around the blade), but I cannot help but think there is a better way?
 
Anthony, I do not stitch the retention strap nor do I stitch the belt loop as both are tucked inside the sheath and held securely by the edge stitching up by the mouth. No stitches showing on the back of my sheaths of this style. The photo below is a mini sheath about 5 inches long, but the method is the same. Over ten years and not a failure yet. (Barge and skived fitting just about bullet proof).

I also never use the "shelf" as it increases thickness at the mouth and distracts from the aesthetics of the sheath. The handle on some knives does press against the belt loop and causes it to mold to that shape. Dwayne prefers his shelf method and I prefer mine. I rarely even use a wedge on the welt of thick blades because of the molding capability of the loop.

Paul
 
Last edited:
Very interesting on both counts. The two knives I have coming look to have substantial handles so I may need a wedge of some thickness (can't really tell without them in hand), but I'll definitely keep your methods in mind.

Are you following the ongoing conversation in the other thread regarding belt loop stitching? I find your method intriguing and enlightening considering the time your sheaths have had on the hips of their owners.
 
Paul,

This saved me, my goodness, how many hours of trial and error?

I am a professor by trade and a leather bender as an avocation. I appreciate a good teacher and one who is simply willing to help.

Your dedication to teach others your craft, in my opinion, will outlast even your leather - and with as many as you have made - that is a considerable amount of time.

Thank you, again, for your dedication to helping others.

Jason
 
Anthony, my stitch method for belt loops rolled back and stitched to the outside is shown in the photo below. I cement first and then stitch all the way around as shown and the horizontal line at the top is double stitched. Note, this is with MACHINE stitching with very small holes and smaller thread.

Paul
 
Man, I know I've said it a million times, but you do such beautiful work. Hand stitching is really limiting in terms of time and profit. Needs me a stitcher.
 
Anthony, Cobra is just down the road, and Steve and David will treat you right.

Paul
 
And you have to go through Tehachapi to get to them from where you're at.
 
It'll be a good day. Wait. Doesn't that also mean that I'll be passing through Bakersfield? Twice? I'll need to pack some good cd's. :D

Just playin to anyone that likes Bako, it's not without its charms. :)
 
Buck Owen's and Merle Haggard at the top of your list? Its the Bksfd sound.
 
:D
[video=youtube;yotVGV4BxhQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yotVGV4BxhQ[/video]
 
Omega Leather Works said:
That's how I do mine(see below), only not so elegantly. Doing a couple as soon as some knives arrive so this is timely.

Paul, do you not stitch them in? I stitch the strap between where the belt loop gets stitched.

If I may piggyback a question? Dwayne mentions using a "shelf" to add some interference between the loop and difference in thickness between blade and handle, but I don't quite understand this. How do you make it so that a thick handle doesn't push on the loop? I've taken to adding welt thickness at the top (keeping retention with the shape of the welt around the blade), but I cannot help but think there is a better way?
Click to expand...

First off, many thanks to a friend who told me of this question, next, asking one person why another person does what he does just doesn't make sense. :p

I put a shelf on the sheaths that require a shelf, pure and simple. I work with outdoors type knives that sometimes have machined micarta or G10 handles. Try making a sheath meant to force mold around those and you'll have a returned sheath every time, either that or an unhappy customer who wont buy from you again because his knife handle chewed up his sheath. I learned from experience, I dont like seeing my work look horrible because those sharp machined handles, period.

Its on a case by case basis, if I get a smooth handled knife (Like I suppose Paul gets more often than I) I'd not be worried about the handle eating up my work, thus no need for a shelf type sheath.

I can show you a couple of my early sheaths that came back after being used for a time against machined handles, its not pretty. I've had more than a few customers ask specifically that their magnum busse handles not rub against the back of the sheath, now THAT is a thick shelf! :eek:

You can do it the way you want, I will never diss anyone for their choices, and never have. But I do prefer to be asked directly when there is a question about my work and why I do it the way I do. Part time since '96 and full time since 2001. :)
 
No offense meant my friend. I only mentioned it because it was a path to describing the need for something to offset the handle thickness.

I would love to see any pics you care to share.
I know you do a lot of Busse sheaths, interestingly (at least to me) I noticed the issue most on a Busse sheath. Others hadn't been an issue. I think I mentioned that the two I'll be doing in a couple of days appear to have a need for some form of interference due to the thick stag handles. They also happen to be large knives. Again, anything you care to add will be most appreciated.

Anthony
 
No offense taken, in any means. :)

Thick handles dont necessarily mean the need for an offset on the back of the sheath. If the handles are smooth then there is no actual need as they will smoothly mold the leather (though, honestly, I really dislike that pooched look when they are especially thick) Again, different people have different views of aesthetics.

There are several things that I cannot work around when trying to keep the sheaths as thin as possible: Stag handles will tear up a finished face leather even worse than machined handles. Sharp edged guards will always grab and cut the leather, they really should be radiused, but dont always come that way. It goes on and on with anything sharp and/or pointy involved in the handle.

If you dont mind marks on your belt loops then you have a better way. :D I do, so I do the shelf. Now you know.
 
Very good. If you don't mind I may shoot you a pm or email after I see the knives in question. I've taken up enough space in Jasons thread. :o
 
Looks like the question was answered. :) New info is always a good thing. Send me a note as soon as you need to, no worries.

Thread drift happens, always, as long as it is positive its a good thing. Negative thread drift is always met with a hammer. ;)
 
Dwayne could you post a pic of a sheath with the shelf? There's been discussion on these before and I'm just not picturing it in my head.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top