Paul Chen Scramasax?

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Oct 23, 2001
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Does anyone have any experience with the Chen Scramasax? I'm thinking of picking one up but I want to make sure that it's of fair quality first. I'd love to pick up a Himalayan Imports Seax but I don't think they're going to have any in stock soon.

Thanks
 
I think that Sweet picked one up, but I can't recall. Nice fittings on that one. If you can get 6-8 takers, Bill Martino will order a batch, I'm sure.


Keith
 
I like it, been wanting one of these for a long time. Made tough, price is reasonable compared to who else is out there...a good purchase
Paul Chen and the other is the Lutel 11007
sweet-477.jpg
 
Hi Guys
Paul Binns in the UK also does excellent work.Makes both replicas and re-enactors weapons in various styles.He has a web site but I dont have the details with me.Try a google search.
Phil
 
Thanks for the info and the great pic, I'm really thinking about getting one. I was a little worried that I would be disappointed with the fit and finish but it sounds like the Scramasax is a good buy. Paul Binns does make some nice Seax's but a little more than I'd like to spend, his silver fittings really look great though. Now off to eBay to find the best price on the Scramasax!
 
I bought one about 3 years ago when they first came out. It is a veyr well made item, with a hardwood hilt and bronze fittings. The blade is on mine is, aas usual for Paul Chen at that time, a hunk of railroad track forged into a blade and it is quite durable. It takes a good edge, holds it reasonably well, and may be touched up fairly easily. I use a Carborundum scythe stone on mine as it is essentially a living-history item and not a collector's piece. The one problem is the sheath. The angle at which it is hung allows the blade to slide out all too easily if you should lean over or be running. There are various field modifications that you can make; I took some leather lacing and laced uo the flaps that you see covering the hilt so that they give the seax more retention in the sheath. you could also extend the lower loop to hang the sheath at more of an angle to your belt. But there is an third alternative: my friend, Bruce Blackistone, Captain Atli of the Longship Company, comments that he has seen only a very few artistic representations of seaxes being worn and ALL of them show the individual sitting down with the seax across his lap. It occurs to him that this is not proof that they were carried that way, as a long blade is frequently laid across the lap when sitting, even when hung perpendicularly at one's side. So, he asks, did they really carry the longer seaxes, such as the Paul Chen model, hanging down at their sides rather than at this shallow angle that allows them to slide out all too easily?

BTW, archaeologists call the spear point shape of the Chen model the Frankish-style Seax, although they have been found all over Northern Europe. It is historically valid. My problem with the HI seaxes is that they are not, in that the hilts on them are shaped in ways that no seax ever discovered has had a hilt shaped and in that they have scales rivetted on to the tang, another thing not seen on any of the historical finds.
 
is mostly a design misinterpretation. The original intent was to have an enclosed tang, not the full tang/scale-slab type design you see. The sheath was way off once they added the snap to it. Call it symptomatic of having to communicate designs to a smith of another culture, another language, andother field of expertise.

Still, fer a finished and tempered blade fer 100 bux, one could strip off the scales, reshape the tang, and do away with the bolster and slap on a more authentic hidden-tang style seax.(and perhaps perform a few other minor mods). Lotta work for a finished knife, I know.

Me, I'm okay with the way they turned out, and will stack its performance against any modern seax of similar dimension and design. Sheath MUST be remedied, though.

My tuppence.

Keith
 
Ferrous Wheel, my caution is directed at anyone considering an HI seax fo living history or re-enactment purposes. As a using knife, it may well be a superior choice, they certainly do look very nice, especially the ones that were engraved. And HI has a superb reputation for quality and durability in their construction. It is just that they will most likely NOT pass muster with knowledgeable re-enactors or living history types.
 
Those CAS swords on the By the Sword link look priced to compete with Kris Cutlery. Are they real swords or just wallhangers?
 
Benjamin, that depends upon where the CASI swords are made. The ones with GT in the item numbers are made by Paul Chen in his works at Hanwei in Manchuria, the ones with PP in the number are from the Philippines, and the ones with AM in the number are, I believe, from Spain. The Chen items are generally thought to be better than MRL and somewhere just below Lutel for their European line. Their oriental line go from acceptable for the price to quite nice, as I understand it, but I am not into oriental swords. The one exception to the generally decent reputation for the Chen Euro swords is the Godfred "Damascus", i.e. Pattern Welded, Viking Sword, 1010-GT. It had a bad rep for its very iffy heat treat in the earlier production. I don't kknow if the later ones have remedied this problem. I have heard good things of the others, but you do get what you pay for. As to the PP and AM versions, I have never heard good things about them at either NetSword or SwordForum, so I wouild consider them as wall hangers until I heard from someone whom I trusted that they were better than that.
 
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