Peening Monsterous Pins

S

Snickersnee

Joined
May 2, 1999
Messages
1,206
I have a need of peening pins that are 1/4th-3/8 an inch thick.

I've never tried peening anything this thick, and was wondering if anybody who has would have some pointers for me.
 
use smaller pins, hahaha, but seriously the size shouldn't matter, and there is a jig available for peening pins. i'm curious to what typeof knife this pins are going in?
 
I routinely peen the pins in my Buck 110s, which are also monsters. I taped a small, thin, washer with a hole just slightly larger than the pins to my finish anvil.

I set the pin into that washer and tap away, very gently, with a fairly heavy hammer [20 ounce]. Be really careful to use about a half dozen light blows and do NOT hit hard enough to bend the pin or it will ruin your piece by tearing up the holes.

The washer allows a tiny bit of room for the pin to expand and tighten up.

Then turn it over and repeat, again with the washer.

Once both sides are done with the washer, you can just move it off the washer and peen directly on the smooth anvil. I keep my anvil heavily waxed and polished to allow the peened material to expand as much as possible.

Again, many small blows.

This takes very little time and gives me great results.

Please let us know how these suggestions work for you. Good Luck!

------------------

WinDancer@OlyWa.net

Large selection of Buck 110s for sale www.olywa.net/windancer/webknives.htm




[This message has been edited by WinDancer (edited 21 September 1999).]
 
:
Hi Snick.
I can tell you what's done in most heavy industrial applications.
Make the pin longer than needed and drill a shallow hole in each end.You may have to make yourself some punches to adequately move the material neatly.You could make the last one a cup style that would round the edge off nice and smooth.
It will take a little trial and error until you find the right combo,but it does work nicely.
A lt of it depends on how much of the pin is allowd to stick out on the finished product.
Hope this helps.

------------------


>>>>---¥vsa---->®
Cornbread ain't s'possed ta be sweet!....Dagnabit gurl,whut did they teach you way up north in ....;) hehehe.


 
Have you considered setting the pins with a heavy squeeze instead of repeated blows? Factory knives use this method to good effect, and Carver was telling me he had some luck expanding pins with some sort of industrial press. Probably a bad idea for a pivot or in fragile materials, but just the thing for setting in metal and tough handle materials. I'm experimenting with a 6-ton pneumatic press for this, and I've seen there are hand-presses for setting pins and using stamps. I'm still in the experimenting stage, but it seems like a good way to get more uniform, reliable results than with the old polished-pein hammer.

-Drew
 
The pins are going in a navaja. I posted this once or twice in conjunction with other questions, but it never got covered to my satisfaction.

I think I might try a hybrid of the oversized pins and boring holes and washer and anvil ideas...

I like the pneumatic press idea, but I don't have access to such equipment at present, and it is going to be the pivot pin, so I can't really say if the press idea would work for this or not.

Actualy, I can't say why it wouldn't. Ultimately I'd like to dropforge the components of my knives, so I'll probably get a powerhammer or press along the way "someday".
 
Oh, heck, for a pivot get some Corby-type rivets - they come pretty big and in stainless, very tough. You can fine-tune the pressure as you screw them together, then grind the heads off flush. I can send you a couple if you like.

-Drew
 
It's the screw part that's always bugged me about`em. Screws tend to loosen with impact from vibrations. Do they have a special features to prevent this that I've missed?
 
So they don't have anything built-in, like a locknut or something?

Not that there's anything wrong with epoxy, but I imagine it'd make an awful mess when you screw that thing together. Then again, that's what rags, and even sandpaper, is made for...
 
:
Snick,the Loctite ® is a cool product that you can get in a couple or maybe more applications now.
There is one that holds screws tight against vibration.Then another that pretty well does what it says.It locks it up tight.
The threads have to be clean and they also have a product for that and I believe there is also one that helps it cure quicker.
It isn't messy at all and only takes a drop.Literally.
HTH.

------------------


>>>>---¥vsa---->®
Cornbread ain't s'possed ta be sweet!....Dagnabit gurl,whut did they teach you way up north in ....;) hehehe.


 
No doubt screws and loctite would work, but I wouldn't be afraid to peen a fat pin with a hammer, either. I'd rather peen a short fat pin than a long thin one ... I wouldn't care how fat it is as long as it isn't too long in proportion to diameter; at worst you'd only need a bigger hammer, and for a knife ... even a folding sword ... it surely won't require a hammer too heavy to lift.
smile.gif


-Cougar Allen :{)
 
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