peening my SS bolsters? -having trouble

while peening my first set of 3/8" SS bolsters (similar happened to my first set of brass but not as bad)i found it difficult to get both completely seated on all four sides. I do admit the the two pins were more towards the front then the back but were spaced well top to bottom... i am using 1/8" pins and a 3 lbs hammer and anvil, leaving almost a 1/8" of pin on both sides before starting. i then evenly hit all both pins on both sides until the gaps close and then focus on the pins that are near any remaining gaps. It seemed like it got to a certain point and the pins swelled between the tang and bolster making it very hard to get both bolsters seated. there was about a .001 inch gap on one side and when i got that side seated the gap moved to the other bolster... is there any suggestions to improve my results??
thanks
 
If you do a search on bolsters you will find several posts on this. If I had more time I'd explain how I do it, but it's in there if you search.

My main advice though, is this: When you first start to peen, clamp the bolsters down with one or two vice-grip clamps. I usually use the welding style with adjustable pads on them. Or the needle nose vice-grips.

Anyway, I drill and ream everything so that it all fits together real snug to begin with, but sometimes they still want to sneak out like you said. So if you keep them clamped like this at the start, they don't have a chance to let the pin swell between the bolster and tang.

Also, I do use the ball end. I put a high polish on it and the pin ends, that will make the pin flow smoother. I start with a 12 oz. and then once I get the pins to seat, I beat them down with a 3 lb.

Good luck
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Nick

[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 12-19-2000).]

[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 12-19-2000).]
 
JR,
1. make the countersinks with a deeper bevel. I use a carbide burr, made for die grinders. 60 rather than 45 degrees
2. the pins must be flat and slightly chamfered (very light) they should extend beyond the bolsters only slightly, what you want to do is fill the bevel in the bolster and maybe just a bit more.
3.get a small ball pein hammer,polish the pein. hit the pin in the center and then work around the edge of the pin in a circular motion, keep working until the bevel is full, take care to work both ends of the pin equally.
4.work all the pins a little at a time, rather than finishing one pin and then going to the next. working one pin will tend to skew the bolster. Kinda like tightening lug nuts on a car wheel, keep it even.

I have 3" round, about 5" tall that I use for the anvil when I pein the pins. My little ball pein only weighs a few oz, and that is the only thing I use that hammer for.

When you hit the pins rememer that the anvil rebound works to a lesser degree on its side, to move metal also, that's why the pins are upsetting in the center and not the ends.

The method I desrcibed above works for me.
Part of that is info I picked up here on this board and from other teachers.


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Sola Fide
 
On the only bolster knife I made I epoxied the bolsters on, slipped the pins in and pounded like mad. No gaps 'cuz of the epoxy!!

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"Come What May..."
 
epoxy sucks.....when you grind the bolsters it will turn black.....make you holes a little bigger and use a bigger hammer.
 
Tom's such a diplomat...
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Most importantly, you have to get everything flat. If it doesn't snug up seamlessly before you put the pins in, it won't ever. If you use 3 pins instead of 2, I think you'll find that it all stays together better as you're pounding. I make the pin/hole fit as tight as possible, using 1/8" drill and 1/8" pins, which I frequently have to sand down a little to get to fit. Tighter is better (isn't it always...).

A serious source of uneveness is if you try to flatten everything on your platen. Belts tend to wear in the middle, so the edges will cut more than the center, giving you a crown on your blade. What you are experiencing sounds like that may be the problem. Try surfacing with a fresh belt and see what you get.

Good luck

Good luck.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
I have a guard that I am going to be putting on my knife (both SS). I need to solder the guard on though.....do I still need to pin it? I have the pin and its all drilled...did notice some space though.... I thought I was just going to solder it on and fill the small space with solder. I was also not going to pin it any more then solder the pin in place...... or should I hammer it a bit?

Michael
 
Anyone care to commend on the above reply
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HMMmmmmmmmm
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Between soldering, etching and all.....hmmm..... cant figure out the order.....

Michael
 
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