pendentive might just be right

Sando

Sando

Knife Maker
Joined
Jul 4, 2002
Messages
1,148
In the search for the ultimate slicing edge I've tried another shot at convex. Dan's video clips are quite haunting. I have to duplicate them. Here's the stats:


1/16", ATS-34, 5" long, 3/4" wide, hollow ground kitchen utility blade.
Edge was about .015" thick when I stopped grinding.
Nothing new there

Then I started on the edge using my Sando-rotary platen (to produce a slightly convex grind) and used an angle of about 15 degrees. 120 grit, 65X, 45x, 15x 5x, leather strop.

When it was done, it did OK on the horse hair brush, but a flat ground edge grabs better.

It did just fine on the wood chopping - that thin of a blade doesn't take out much wood, but point is it didn't chip or roll.

Jeans cutting was pretty amazing. Went thru an old pair of jeans like butter. I don't mean single thickness, I mean the top where the belt loops are - folded and stiched.

However, when it came time to paper slice testing :eek: :eek: :eek:

It sliced 4 sheets of newpaper like it wasn't there. Then 10 sheets, then 10 sheets folded. Still could hardly feel the blade go thru the material.

Holding an old MSC catalog (40 sheets or so) in a clamp it neaty removed a corner in a single stroke. Slicing the catalog in half from the spine it made it 3/4 of the way thru. (remember this isn't a big fighter - it's a little kitchen knife).

I'm might be slow to catch on, but these convex edges are a whole different world.

Steve
 
Steve, I have been experimenting with convex edges and I'm like you in that I'm coming around. I have this forged blade that I have put a convex edge on and it just keeps getting better. Have been using a flat, leather hone and the blade just keeps cutting better after each use and sharpening. Actually, it takes very little work to bring the edge back after use, which is sort of surprising to me.
I may go with a convex edge on all my blades.
His sharpening cd was very informative & impressive!
 
Steve, What's a Sando-rotary platen?

I'm pretty much doing the same on the convex edging except I'll go from 120 to 100x Norax and then down. Every time I skip one, I have to go back half way and start over so I do them all now automatically. I was doing leather stropping but started using the buffer with green chrome and about two or three light passes on the edge.
 
I always put the edge on with the slack belt putting a convex edge
on using 220, 30 micron, 15 micron, all fresh belts to keep the heat down ,, that edge will heat fast.
and then buff with the white rouge. works for me..:)
 
I'm interested in your cushy platen idea, Steve. Be sure to post more pics of the finished knives here in this thread (when you're done with them).

Convex edges aren't for everybody, but they get the job done for me.

Dan
 
Dan,

Convex edges aren't for everybody, but they get the job done for me.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm wondering. I think it's gonna be a great edge for the kitchen. However, for a customer blade that's no good, cause they can't sharpen it.

I'm mentally toying with the idea of providing customers a mouse-pad strop (Mouse pad with 2000 grit paper) or a piece of 3m microfinish belting.

Have you ever considered that?

Steve
 
I include a generic write-up of how to maintain the edge (basically a condensed version of the CD I made).

I've found that even if I specify exactly what paper to use, etc. people use what's most readily available to them. So, I "share the idea" instead...;)
 
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