First off let me say that i love my PE1 ive only had it a month or so and i love the action of this knife its fast with the reliable arc-lock system... But here comes the problem.. Its already starting to show signs of rust!! I'm just wondering if its a defect in the metal or something? I bought it from Smokey Mountain Knife Works... dont get me wrong I love this knife and all my friends do as well.. So whats the deal? i didn't think it would start showing signs of rust this soon... should i return it or what please help.. thanks in advance
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Pentagon Elite
- Thread starter geldib
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2000
- Messages
- 3,769
Hi Geldib,
I'm sorry you're having problems with your Pentagon Elite. If you'd like you can review our website's warranty page for return instructions or give us a call (888.SOG.BEST) to talk this over.
Conversely, it is always great to hear to that regardless of the problem you are experiencing, you love your knife!
Though rusting like this is unusual, it can happen. Let me explain. AUS8 is a great knife steel, but its chromium content is just above the minimum standard to be called "stainless." This will make it less resistant to rusting than other "stainless" steels. Then, with this being a tactical knife, we've been asked to have it bead blasted for low reflectivity. This makes the blade surface porous and more susceptible to corrosion. Between the steel type and the type of blade finish, an extra level of maintenance is required (such as cleaning and oiling). Also, if someone lives in a marine-type climate, the salty air would compound the issue. In other words, clean & oil...clean & oil...clean & oil.
I'm sorry you're having problems with your Pentagon Elite. If you'd like you can review our website's warranty page for return instructions or give us a call (888.SOG.BEST) to talk this over.
Conversely, it is always great to hear to that regardless of the problem you are experiencing, you love your knife!
Though rusting like this is unusual, it can happen. Let me explain. AUS8 is a great knife steel, but its chromium content is just above the minimum standard to be called "stainless." This will make it less resistant to rusting than other "stainless" steels. Then, with this being a tactical knife, we've been asked to have it bead blasted for low reflectivity. This makes the blade surface porous and more susceptible to corrosion. Between the steel type and the type of blade finish, an extra level of maintenance is required (such as cleaning and oiling). Also, if someone lives in a marine-type climate, the salty air would compound the issue. In other words, clean & oil...clean & oil...clean & oil.
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2000
- Messages
- 3,769
Knife Maintenance
Cleaning would consist of fresh water and mild liquid soap (like dish washing soap). Use something like an old tooth brush to get into hard-to-reach areas. Unless the knife is really dirty, there should be no need for aggressive scrubbing techniques. When done, thoroughly rinse the knife, getting all the soap off. After the knife is 100% dry, apply a little amount of lubrication to the pivot and other moving parts (anything from a quality 3-in-1 oil to a gun oil should be fine). For your blade, the same oil should be fine, applying to all surfaces, then wiping off the excess. But, if you really want to do it right, get Marine Tuf-Cloth from Sentry Solutions. It is a dry lubricant that is simply outstanding!
This process should be repeated as often as needed. That definitely includes after a serious use (having been in contact with mud, goo, blood, fish guts, salt water, etc.). If you live or work on a boat, you may need to do this weekly (even if you barely ever use the knife).
Disassembly of the knife for cleaning (or at anytime) is not advisable and could void your warranty.
NOTE: Always take special care when handling your knife as to not cut yourself; in this case, while cleaning.
I hope this has been helpful.
Cleaning would consist of fresh water and mild liquid soap (like dish washing soap). Use something like an old tooth brush to get into hard-to-reach areas. Unless the knife is really dirty, there should be no need for aggressive scrubbing techniques. When done, thoroughly rinse the knife, getting all the soap off. After the knife is 100% dry, apply a little amount of lubrication to the pivot and other moving parts (anything from a quality 3-in-1 oil to a gun oil should be fine). For your blade, the same oil should be fine, applying to all surfaces, then wiping off the excess. But, if you really want to do it right, get Marine Tuf-Cloth from Sentry Solutions. It is a dry lubricant that is simply outstanding!
This process should be repeated as often as needed. That definitely includes after a serious use (having been in contact with mud, goo, blood, fish guts, salt water, etc.). If you live or work on a boat, you may need to do this weekly (even if you barely ever use the knife).
Disassembly of the knife for cleaning (or at anytime) is not advisable and could void your warranty.
NOTE: Always take special care when handling your knife as to not cut yourself; in this case, while cleaning.
I hope this has been helpful.
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2002
- Messages
- 2,413
Ron - is that bead blast put there purely for it's non-reflective properties?
I actually thought that the bead blast was there also to prevent long-term rust and corrosion?
I mean I know about those initial pores that trap the moisture but once that is 'Flitzed' out I thought that the bead blast would aid against rust and corrosion.
I don't know if that last sentence makes too much sense at all but I can be a little dense this late at night
I actually thought that the bead blast was there also to prevent long-term rust and corrosion?
I mean I know about those initial pores that trap the moisture but once that is 'Flitzed' out I thought that the bead blast would aid against rust and corrosion.
I don't know if that last sentence makes too much sense at all but I can be a little dense this late at night
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2000
- Messages
- 3,769
Hey BOK,
Yes, the bead blast blade finish is there purely for its anti-reflective properties (and aesthetics properties) and will continue to require maintenance throughout its life to restrict rusting.
Now, if the finish wore very smooth, that would be a different story.
Yes, the bead blast blade finish is there purely for its anti-reflective properties (and aesthetics properties) and will continue to require maintenance throughout its life to restrict rusting.
Now, if the finish wore very smooth, that would be a different story.
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2002
- Messages
- 150
Ron,that is a nother reson for Black-T. Chris
Chris
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2002
- Messages
- 446
I agree with Tanto Trader. I'm a police officer, and work 12 hour shifts. I had AUS 8 bead blast folder, and with the heat, and sweat from pocket carry, it would get rust quicker then I could keep up with. I then got a teflon coated version, and no more problem. You could get it coated, but I'm not sure if that will void your warranty. Good luck, Reagan