people over-exaggerate the difficulty of sharpening recurves

R

Razorsharp-Travis

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Dead simple.

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Get sandpaper and a bloxk of wood, even use the 90 degree corner of a table or desk, fold the sandpaper over the corner, sharpen away. I went to 1200 grit (super super worn) then I used Some MDF blocks with diamond paste on the corner to polish it up, then I microbeveled it on my Sharpmaker stone but could have used my waterstone corner if I wanted. It really isnt hard at all to sharpen recurves.
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:p
 
Before somebody says I have probably sharpened a few recurves, this is my first one...... I think

edit- I also have a Hossom forager, but thats a huge recurve. I have sharpened a Hawkbill (electricians knife) with the same method too
 
I'm in full agreement with you! I sharpen recurves on my EdgePro with no difficulty. For severe recurves such as found on a Kris I'll go to sandpaper on a dowel, but otherwise, normal recurves cause no trouble at all.


Stitchawl
 
I have a Lansky system. When I tried to sharpen my Blur, I discovered that the stones don't fit in the recurve. I may try again later, but the edge was horrible. Perhaps I should try this. What kind of sandpaper did you use and which way did you stroke?
 
Squashfan said:
I have a Lansky system. When I tried to sharpen my Blur, I discovered that the stones don't fit in the recurve. I may try again later, but the edge was horrible. Perhaps I should try this. What kind of sandpaper did you use and which way did you stroke?
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You can edge lead so long as you secure the paper on a flat surface. When I use paper I prefer 3M automotive (high grit multi pack found at autozone or the like) wet/dry.
 
Squashfan said:
I have a Lansky system. When I tried to sharpen my Blur, I discovered that the stones don't fit in the recurve. I may try again later, but the edge was horrible. Perhaps I should try this. What kind of sandpaper did you use and which way did you stroke?
Click to expand...

The Lansky can work, but pressure needs to be very, very light. Only the edges/corners of the hones make contact, and that exerts a lot of pressure on the very narrow point of contact, on the steel. It's a bit easier if the edge bevels are at a more acute angle, because the bevels are wider and distribute the pressure more evenly, and the curvature of the recurve is effectively at a wider radius as well, when the hone-to-bevel angle is lower.

I do agree it's much, much easier to do recurves using sandpaper over a cylindrical backing. Seems almost intuitive, that the radiused sharpening surface would better fit the curvature of the blade. As with all sharpening, pressure exerted is key. The narrower the area of contact, the lighter it should be. With some experience, that can be used to advantage, as you can fine-tune a given steel to a given radius at a pressure that's easy to regulate, and produces the best results. This is another advantage of using a cylinder for the backing, as there are virtually limitless sizes available in commonly-found items. The radius of the cylinder can be cherry-picked to fit whichever blade you're working on.


David
 
I don't really see how it's an over-exaggeration to say it's hard to sharpen recurves. You still have to pay extra attention and deal with multiple changes in the blade. I don't care how easy it actually is, it's still not as easy as sharpening a plain straight edge and that's why I prefer those. On top of that I have no use for a recurve, so why would I want to have to sharpen one?
 
danbremner said:
Same difficulty just maybe a little longer and maybe a different shaped stone.
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It's more complicated...

Straight edge with a belly... Move across stone, lift the hilt in one constant direction to keep contour to belly. You're done.

Recurve? Move across the stone, lift the handle, lower it, lift again, etc.

I don't see why it's a big deal to insist that it's still "easy" to do this. Is any sharpening really "hard"? For example, my Wharncliffe "Needs Work" is just a straight edge, very simple to sharpen. I still refer to this as being "easier" to sharpen than my drop-points with bellies, because I don't have to lift the handle or anything. It's not about difficulty, it's about the care and meticulousness one has to invest.
 
I am by no means expert. Have got diamond stones from DMT and one Taedea. All flat.

Doing a recureve is more difficult, especially for those coming uneven or too obtuse from factory. That's a fact.

How easy/difficult it actually is, is individual perception. Picked up EL08 for the design & steel, but found out the recurve is tough for me. If only EL 06 has dual thumbstud and a frame lock, I'd take it instead.

Note: perspective from one that doesn't have easy access to various brands and made like folks in US do.
 
KennyB said:
It's more complicated...

Straight edge with a belly... Move across stone, lift the hilt in one constant direction to keep contour to belly. You're done.

Recurve? Move across the stone, lift the handle, lower it, lift again, etc.

I don't see why it's a big deal to insist that it's still "easy" to do this. Is any sharpening really "hard"? For example, my Wharncliffe "Needs Work" is just a straight edge, very simple to sharpen. I still refer to this as being "easier" to sharpen than my drop-points with bellies, because I don't have to lift the handle or anything. It's not about difficulty, it's about the care and meticulousness one has to invest.
Click to expand...
There's really no lifting or lowering of the stones, sharpen it like you would a drop point or what ever, but instead of a flat stone you're using a dowel with sand paper or something. I shall make a vid at some stage , its really really easy
 
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