Pepsi can stove question

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Jun 24, 2004
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I've been constructing the pepsi can stove, to see if it would work for my survival/hunting pack. I would appreciate it if someone whois made this stove could tell me what perlight is and the effects it has when doused in alcohol and lit. Lighting an unknown substance covered in alcohol just doesn't sound fun :eek: .


Link : http://wings.interfree.it/html/GLKirby.html
 
No idea what perlight is but good old sand or even dirt will do the same trick.
Cut a can in half or thereabouts, half fill it with your sand/dirt, pour in enough Jet A1, (or kerosene or even gas but that's a little more exciting), to soak the dirt but not cover the dirt then strike a match and hold it over the top. The fumes will catch and, hey presto, you can heat up your beans.
 
if my brain is firing right, you can find it at a gardening shop if you ask...

one of those things like paying $5 for a litre of mineral oil in the pharmacy(laxitive section) compared to $5 for a 5oz bottle in a knife store...
 
Perlite/vermiculite is a heat expanded common mineral. Forget which one. Think of popcorn, but done with rocks. It's that white light floaty stuff you see in most potting soils. It's porous and lots of surface area to help vaporize the alcohol.

The benefit of this or other material in the pressure wall area of a pepsi stove is highly debated. The only theoretical benefit is for very low temperature ignition. Except that teh part of the stove you light doesn't have this material present. I can think of no danger in using it.

My opinion is you can skip the perlite

Phil
 
I have made several using the plan that calls for fiberglass insulation rather than perlite. It stays in place and works fine. Available in auto supply stores and home centers.

Perlite is white and brittle/crunchy. Vermiculite is a different product. Both are in small pieces and would need some system to keep in place.
 
Alcohol stoves take forever to heat things up. Throw in a little breeze and you'll be waiting a very long time. I will opt to carry the extra weight of a whitegas/gasoline stove for maximum BTU output.
 
The pepsi stove is a clone of the Swedish Trangia stoves. They work very well.

Windscreens are recommended by an mini-stove makers.

Phil
 
Considering they cost about 10c to make, its worth the effort. I made one that used flu sealant and a pop can that fit into a small tuna can with about 1/2 mm play, which I sealed up. This way the walls are much thicker than a regular pop can and the seal is better. I like alc as a fuel and unless you are cooking for a tribe its the best way to go IMO as it does not stink or leave black smoke on things like petro fuels do.

One cap full from a bottle of pop is usually enough for a brew up. I usually dig a small pit and place it in that rather than have a wind sheild.
 
If you use pure grain alcohol, the fuel is more expensive, but there are no poisons in the cooking process, you caould add a really nifty flambe effect, the fuel can be used for various sterilization and solvent purposes, emergency vehicle fuel extender or dryer, and could be used for trade or pain relief in an emergency.

On the otherhand, someone could get "thirsty", drink up all the fuel, go postal on you or leave you with someone you have to carry off, and end the campout on a rather negative note.
 
In desperation, I've dug a hole and made a wood fire in it to cook water in a soda can to make Ramen noodles (you'd be amazed at what Marines will do when their hungry, and don't want to walk to the chow hall).
 
MelancholyMutt said:
Alcohol stoves take forever to heat things up. Throw in a little breeze and you'll be waiting a very long time. I will opt to carry the extra weight of a whitegas/gasoline stove for maximum BTU output.

Alcohol does produce less heat for a given weight of fuel, but the plans on the Internet make it clear that a wind screen (heavy al. foil) is an integral part of the system.
 
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