Perfectly marking the Center of the Grind

[fadugleman]

What is the best way to mark the center of the bevel on a knife blank? Thanks

 

[carbonsteel928]

Using a center scribe is the best way, after that using a pair of hardened steel calipers, lastly but still good, using a drill bit in the same size as the thickness of the steel. Make sure to use as flat a surface as possible, flip the knife and mark from both sides just in case.

 

[fadugleman]

Yeah I would use a drill bit but I cant find a .195 inch bit

 

[carbonsteel928]

I wouldn't have included the bit part if you'd mentioned the stock you are working with. Anyhow there are plenty of calipers, height gauges and center scribes out there. Best of luck, I hope something works out for you.

 

[Wapiti]

I have used a few different methods in the past to scribe my centerlines and have found this tool is what I have settled on:
http://www.stoneandsteel.net/edge-scribe/

I like the large "table" for laying the blank on.
I actually don't try and get the exact center, just very close to it. I scribe with one side of the blank against the table, then flip flip the blank over and scribe the other side. This way I get two very close parallel lines.
Works for me.

Good luck,
Brome

 

[gredpe3]

You can use the next size smaller,just flip it like carbonsteel928 suggested.You end up with two lines but it all works out in the end.
Eddie

 

[synthesist]

C'mon............a 3/16 drillbit is .1875 or, in other words, close enough to use to mark a centerline on a .190 steel bar.

Use something to darken the edge of the steel (a sharpie or dykem, doesn't matter what you use). Then lay it on something flat. Scribe one side, then flip it over and scribe it again. The EXACT centerline will be between your scribed lines, which should be .025 apart I think.

 

[Frank Niro]

I have always found it easier to grind blades that have two lines scribed with the center area being the thickness you want to end up with. The same tools can be used to get this done. Frank

 

[Cody Hofsommer]

What Frank said. Ideally you get to lines .040 apart (that's what I use for carbon steel) grinds to that, ht and do again. Grizzly has a height gauge with a carbide "tooth" that is awesome. It seems that is what all the big boys are using.

 

[AVigil]

I have always found it easier to grind blades that have two lines scribed with the center area being the thickness you want to end up with. The same tools can be used to get this done. Frank

+ 1

That really keeps me focused on where I want to be before HT.

 

[fadugleman]

Thanks

 

[fadugleman]

C'mon............a 3/16 drillbit is .1875 or, in other words, close enough to use to mark a centerline on a .190 steel bar.

Use something to darken the edge of the steel (a sharpie or dykem, doesn't matter what you use). Then lay it on something flat. Scribe one side, then flip it over and scribe it again. The EXACT centerline will be between your scribed lines, which should be .025 apart I think.

Thanks

 

[drlozier]

I use some scrap of the blade steel I am working to make a scribe the same thickness as the blade steel......sharpen it to a point and heat treat it...the scribe point will not necessarily be true to center but if you scribe one side of the blade then flip it over and and scribe the other you will end up with a good set of lines to mark the center of the blade stock.

 

[Faron Moore]

What Frank said. Ideally you get to lines .040 apart (that's what I use for carbon steel) grinds to that, ht and do again. Grizzly has a height gauge with a carbide "tooth" that is awesome. It seems that is what all the big boys are using.

Thank you for your advise.

 

[John Frankl]

Marking it is relatively easy, and a little bit important.

The hard part is actually grinding accurately enough so that the marks even matter