Photo Masking for Etching

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ron Peek
  • Start date Start date
R

Ron Peek

First time on an on-line forum, so my apoligies if this is a double post of the same question. I'm looking for a source for the UV resist that Bob Loveless talks about in his knifemaking book. I've been using a professionally done stencil and an elctro chemical etching process for my logo, but would like the flexibility of doing a photo to fit the blade or customer wishes ("Happy 21st Birthday - Dad", etc)
 
HI Ron
Welcome to the forums great place
great folks.
I got is from the book “How to make mutiblade folding knives” so I’M not sure on how
good it is.
Kodak Marketing Center
1133 Ave. of the Ameeicas
NY. NY 10036
(212-930-8000)
Hope this helps.


------------------
Edward Randall Schott
Knifemaker
edschott@rcn.com

http://www.angelfire.com/ct/schottknives/
 
hello, i've used a etch-o-matic, and didn't get good results, what type of etcher do you have? recently i've been using a turbo carver, i like it, it works very fast, and cuts nicely.
 
I have been working with a material called Autotype Plus 7000, a photo sensitive silk screen emulsion. I tried it on the blade alone without the screen but it lifted during washout. This could be due to the fact that I mirror polish my blades and the smooth surface provides no grip for the emulsion. It would adhere better on a satin finish.

Even if you get the emulsion to stick to the blade properly the problem of getting the photopositive to properly contact the emulsion during exposure has to be overcome.

I am playing with coating techniques now to get a durable screen. My homemade screens are single use only, not a problem when you use to personalize a blade though.


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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com


 
Hi, I'm using a nice little etching unit I bought from Bob Engnath's shop before we lost that wonderful resource. It's made by Electro-Chem Etch, Metal Markings Inc. in Brea, CA. (714) 671-7744. I got my stencil from them as well - came with 6 copies and they last forever. The quality of the etch seems to depend on the correct amount of electrolyte on the pad - too much and it runs out and I get little etch specks around the stencil; too little and you don't get an etch. I've been taping the stencil only on the top or bottom edge so I can lift the stencil and check the progress and it's been working well for me. If I get a bit of fuzziness around the edges, it rubs right off with 2000 grit paper and a light touch with green chrome on a soft buff.
 
you need to get david boye's knifemaking book, he explains this in pretty good detail and i think has some sources...although it is a very old book and they might be outdated.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Hi Ron,
PC@E carries KTFR Negstive Photoresist:
PC@E
522 Route 30
Frazer, PA 19335
Phone: 610-296-8585
Fax: 610-9938557

Good Luck--Ray--

 
Hi Ray
I'll give them a call Monday morning. Have you used this method?
Ron
 
Ron,
I have been electro etching with the KTFR for a coulpe of years now. You can get a very sharp and deep etch using the photoresist.

Does anybody know where to get the acid (Royal water) that is used to etch harden steel.--Ray--
 
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