Pic of what a pre-86 120 *should* look like???

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Does anyone here have a good condition Buck 120 [phenolic/aluminum] with a pic of the blade??? I'm interested in whether the transition lines on the older 120's are blurred like the older 110's & 112's...

I just examined one that is obviously 3M'd, possibly wire brushed as well...and although it will probably cut skin, it doesn't have an obvious "edge"...

I know Joe said the satin blades were finished with a 3M wheel, what I'm wondering is how sharp (or how blurred) the break between the flat surface and the semi-hollow grind is...

Also...Is the 120 a barrel roll or pinned pommel??? I sure can't tell...
 
Trax, you know I'd love to post a pic;)...however mine is an '88:( and does have a sharp transition line FWIW. You know someone will have an old one and post a pic. Preston
 
pjsjr said:
Trax, you know I'd love to post a pic;)...however mine is an '88:( and does have a sharp transition line FWIW. You know someone will have an old one and post a pic. Preston

Post it!!! ;)

Here's what the one I'm examining looks like...



I don't know if the sharp line can be restored or not...I have a folding blade that a reknowned knifesmith who sometimes posts here did; and the blend line is as blurry as this 120... :(
 
Trax, here's mine:)

The one your looking at looks to have scratches/dings in the blade toward the curve...if your thinking that this one has been "restored" look at those dings and see if they have sharp appearing edges. If they're rounded then I would guess that someone has worked on the blade. Preston

edited to add...I have a minty 116 that Joe H puts in group 2, 1973-1980. It has smooth transition lines like the early/older 110 & 112s. Preston

 
Here is a shot of the untouched grind on my early 70's 120. I bought it new when I was a wee lad.:)
262qf6u.jpg
 
matt321 said:
Here is a shot of the untouched grind on my early 70's 120. I bought it new when I was a wee lad.:)

Thanks, matt321! :) :thumbup:

That looks more like this 120 than Prestons. And both this and yours look more like the older hand finished 110's rather than the newer machine finished knives like the Idaho 110's and even Preston's 120 (although I like the look of the precision grind on Preston's 120 much more). ;)

The price is reasonable (less than a new Cabela's 120), and it may have some slight collectability, being pre-86; so I think I'll exercise my option to purchase it.

I do have to admit that the aluminum makes it out of balance; the brass and Cocobolo 120 is probably much better balanced and handier to use...and more expensive... :(
 
matt321 said:
Another view of the above.
262r402.jpg

...Ah!...The pommel is pinned...Your pin shows up quite nicely; I can't even find this one... ;) :thumbup:

And yours has a more rounded abutment sticking out; this one is abrupt and sharply angled...not as nice as yours...
 
Here's a question for you experienced Buck owners out there...If I were to send this in to Buck for sharpening, would they also sharpen it and repolish it similar to Preston's 120 (with the newer edge), or would they duplicate the original edge (or lack of it) and the blurred lines of the surface transitions??? :confused:
 
The only piece that I have sent in the be "restored" was a 501 that had a broken rocker bar. The blade had some pitting and major scratches on the bolsters, but was a sentimental piece and I requested that they not replace it or the blade. It was refinished with the original softer transition and sharpened. They did a wonderful job. Preston
 
chickentrax said:
Also...Is the 120 a barrel roll or pinned pommel??? I sure can't tell...

Hi Trax,

Here is a funny little test you can do to see your pins in the pommel. Take your knife and rub the side of the pommle on your pant leg a little and the exhale on that spot were you think the pin should be and it will show up. This works;) . It's a trick from our MR. Joe H.

Let us know if it works for you trax.

jb4570
 
jb4570 said:
Take your knife and rub the side of the pommle on your pant leg a little and the exhale on that spot were you think the pin should be and it will show up.

I remembered that and tried it. ;)

Let us know if it works for you trax.

No, it doesn't. :(

Possibly the aluminum throws the condensation off...IIRC, the original post from Joe was in reference to a brass 110...

No matter. I can see where it would be in that photo above. Thanks!
 
I have had 2 Generals, and I always change the grips, because I don't like the thick plastic one Buck puts on. To find the pin, just heat the pommel with a torch for a minute. The pin will show right up.
 
The_Shadow said:
...I always change the grips, because I don't like the thick plastic one Buck puts on.

I thought the thickness was OK; but I think the grip is ~ 1/2" too short...mulling over how to extend it and still keep the pin in the metal... :confused:

To find the pin, just heat the pommel with a torch for a minute. The pin will show right up.

Yep; that should do it... :D
 
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