Pic Request: Bark River Bravo 1.5 vs Esee RC-6

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Sep 10, 2011
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I have the S1 but wanted something a bit bigger to fill a "hole" in my collection. I wanted something smaller than my 711 but bigger than my S1 but with micarta handles and full tang. I got the RC-6 with high hopes but was disappointed by the grind and edge geometry. I have gotten used to the great convex edge on the S1 and shallow convex edge on my 711. Yes, I know I can convex the RC-6 but I would prefer something that has a convex edge and thicker....like the Bravo 1.5. Could I see these two (RC-6 and Bravo) compared to each other in the same picture? The Bravo 1.5 with a 711 or RMD would also be appreciated, but I understand if not since they are a bit more scarce. Also, any pictures of the Bravo 1.5 in green canvas would be welcomed!
 
Not what you asked, but to bump your thread up I'll also offer an alternative - the Survive! GSO-5.1, pictured here with an RMD:

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Review here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...n-to-SYKCO-511-SRKW-RatManDu-Cattaraugus-225Q
 
Nice! I like the link of the survive knives. How does it compare to the Rmd?

I go into detail in the review linked at the bottom of my post, but the main points are that the RMD handle is more comfortable but the GSO-5.1 isn't too far behind, the GSO-5.1 choil is more comfortable in forward grip as it is closer to the handle, the GSO-5.1 blade is 'prettier' but also ground thinner (with no coating) for noticeably better cutting performance, the GSO-5.1 features CPM-3V steel and comes with an excellent sheath, and the GSO-5.1 costs ~$250 compared to the RMD at ~$175 (prices include S/H). I didn't pay that much for either knife as the GSO-5.1 was a pre-order special and RMD's used to be a little cheaper. In summary, i think that the GSO-5.1 is the better knife but you pay a premium for it. Whether it is worth the premium is up to you. Of the 4 knives included in the review, I still own and use all 4. Each has strengths and weaknesses. Standard BF answer: get both and sell the one you like less :cool: Neither will lose value, it may even go UP. If you order an RMD from the shop, be sure to specify an edge angle as they tend to send their knives rather obtuse for higher impact durability at the expense of decent cutting performance. It takes a while to bring the edge angle down to where it can compete with the GSO-5.1, but you could ask them to grind it how you want it at the factory.

EDIT: imho either knife will serve you better than the BRKT with its poor handle design (i.e. uncomfortable in extended use, dangerous in adverse conditions) and which may have a badly ground edge (i.e. too thin and susceptible to damage).
 
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I don't know why but the GSO's don't do much for me looks-wise. People seem to go crazy about them but i'm not privy on waiting around for a knife to be in stock and ship when im not crazy about it. I already have an RMD that I convexed myself very leanly (about 3 minutes on a belt sander) that works for me. Im looking for something bigger than my RMD and S1 with a convex edge and micarta. What do you find uncomfortable about the bark river handles? From the vast majority of accounts they are comfortable.
 
I don't find Bark River handles uncomfortable, they are just different. They may not (as he said in a review)index as easily as say, the RMD or the SURVIVE! (of which I'm a huge fan by the way), but they aren't meant to. They are meant to be used in various different grips.

I think the blade stock on most of the Bussekin knives as well as some of the Bark River stuff is overly thick. I prefer a much thinner stock and think SURVIVE! does that well.

If you want something as specific as you are stating, maybe go custom? Tons of great makers here.
 
Yeah, i forgot to mention that the BRKT is significantly thicker (almost 1/4" vs. ~3/16" on the other two), and that is noticeable on deep cuts into stiff material.

The BRKT handle is LESS comfortable in various grips because a) too slick, b) too round, c) thumb-ramp travesty, d) no heel-drop or other spine curvature. I'll quote myself from my own review to simplify, comparing GSO-5.1 to RMD:

I quickly modified a couple of pictures to help explain the handle points a little better: the blue lines indicate contact between the handle and hand during a normal grip, also being points of exaggerated pressure during forceful cuts. The Red-line indicates a point of reduced or absent contact between handle & hand.

GSO-5.1+handle+A.JPG
GSO-5.1+handle+B.JPG


A straight spine focuses pressure on the muscles groups south of the 'pinkie' and between the thumb and forefinger, and forces the hand flatter against the spine. The RMD's curved spine allows this pressure to be more evenly distributed across the hand without forcing the hand to flatten-out as force is increased.

RMD+handle+A.JPG
RMD+handle+B.JPG


Now, the fact that the GSO-5.1 handle is laterally thicker in the palm is certainly beneficial, a trait that the RMD handle would benefit from (or rather the user would benefit), but the hand is also contoured vertically, and in this case the vertical contours are key.

...

Minimal curve on the spine creates LESS comfort "throughout a range of different grips"... In every grip I have tried, the curved spine of the RMD fits the hand better. The human hand forms a "pocket" in the palm (that the lateral swell acts to fill), but it also curves around the thenar muscles. ... the RMD ... curved spines to accommodate this curvature in the hand. As a result, ... distribute force along the hand more evenly than a straight spine, as illustrated above. In reverse grip, the curve along the belly (more common in various knives) approximates this as well. The straight spine focuses pressure onto specific areas of the hand, forcing the hand to change shape to accommodate handle rather than the other way around. As a result, the straight spine is always less comfortable for any human hand.

Please note, I am only criticizing the spine of the handle. Other important factors include the "heel-drop" which allows increased leverage from the lower portion of the hand to take pressure off the higher portion, and also the lateral swell the allows the fingers to grip tightly without straining. However, with thicker handles it is important to consider how this impacts control of blade direction, requiring a wider handle to compensate. A rounder handle, like the Bravo 1 and Catt225Q, is easily twisted against the user's grip, and is thus harder to control and is even dangerous in adverse conditions, particularly if the handle is slick. Superior control is achieved by maintaining a greater width (height) than thickness, which the RMD and GSO-5.1 do well, which the GSO-10 excels at.

These features are not "to each his/her own", the human hand is configured and functions with great consistency in nearly every human being - the size and proportions of various parts aren't identical, but the parts are in the same places. While your hand may be larger and require a larger (both thickness and width) handle in order to be comfortable, the points about shape remain the same, because the shape of the hand is so consistent form human to human. If not, you may have a hand that is worth medical research!

The primitive "broom-stick" handle and flat spines may be sufficient for some folks, and they may get used to it, but it is an inferior design and one which can actually be dangerous in adverse conditions. Use a round and flat-spine knife-handle heavily for an extended period or in adverse conditions and then compare with a properly designed handle... the difference is "night and day".

If you already have a properly sharpened RMD and S1, I'm not sure adding a GSO-5.1 will fill any voids. I'd definitely step up to something larger :thumbup:
 
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