Picked up a stripper, needs work?

propbuildervash

propbuildervash

Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
528
Greeting Hogs,

Question for your collective thoughts. I picked up a NMSFNO stripper recently. Looks like it may have been grey at some point? It has been mostly stripped but there are some spots around the scales that were missed.

This is a user blade and will continue to be a user blade. However my OCD is driving me a bit nuts. I'd like to get the coating completely removed. I'd hate to buy paint stripper for such a small job. I also have access to a media blasting cabinet with 80grit glass beads. But I have only blasted one set of G10 scales previously, so not tons of blasting experience. Is there any reason I shouldn't just bead blast off the rest of the old coating by the scales and the even out the finish on the blade, and then just lightly repolish the blade a bit to close the pores of the steel to have that same higher polish as the back of the blade where its more highly polished?

Pictures gallery is here:
https://postimg.cc/gallery/YMBSx2P

2021-05-10-10-00-00.jpg
 
Scotch-Brite Heavy Duty Hand Pad + Elbow Grease (maybe a bit of water)

Bonus Tip : It works pretty good to remove the decarburization (oxide scale) from the blade if you've got the time....



The Scotch-Brite™ Heavy Duty Hand Pad 7440 is our most aggressive and durable hand pad. Its super dense construction makes it an excellent choice for your heaviest cleaning, deburring, and finishing applications.


Scotch-Brite™ Heavy Duty Hand Pad 7440

Cuts fast to remove contaminants and oxides in demanding cleaning and finishing applications
Removes the Most Stubborn Contaminants and Coatings and Leaves a Uniform Finish
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The Scotch-Brite™ Heavy Duty Hand Pad 7440 lives up to its name. The ultra durable fibers can take a lot of abuse from aggressive use on the toughest surfaces without tearing or shredding. Designed to run cleaner and longer than steel wool, our 7440 pad yields results similar to steel wool grade 4, minus the rust and splinters.

As with our other hand pads, this tan heavy duty pad removes rust and grime and leaves behind a uniform finish on the surface of the workpiece so you can achieve a quality primer or paint job.

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Scotch-Brite™ is a unique surface conditioning product with abrasives incorporated into non-woven nylon fibers. Combining abrasives with the fibers creates an abrasive system that delivers consistent results over the life of the product. The open web material is load resistant and keeps the abrasive minerals cutting at high performance by limiting clogging of the nylon fibers.
 
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Thats it? No other special shop voodoo required at all? almost seems too easy. I assume you run it from spine to edge to follow the grind lines, then use a pencil eraser to work the pad into the corner?
 
i would just sand it personally, or just grab some paint stripper. only like 5 -10 bucks at home depot and youll be ready for future strips. I thought bead blasting opens up the steels pores and makes it more prone to rust, infi isnt that needy in that regard but might see a couple little pits with neglect
 
propbuildervash said:
Thats it? No other special shop voodoo required at all? almost seems too easy. I assume you run it from spine to edge to follow the grind lines, then use a pencil eraser to work the pad into the corner?
Click to expand...

Well if you're going to do more than just the flecks of coating left by the handle, it would mostly be as you describe but of course it will be a lot of work doing that one by hand. You don't have to follow the grind lines, it's really up to you how you want it to look. It would be pretty much impossible to get an 'in-line' scratch pattern to the finish (from spine to edge) without taking the handles off and reinstalling afterwards. You could just use your hand/finger to get it into the corners or you could buy a hand pad holder (not sure how well this would work here though). With everything though it does take a bit of learning curve to get good at this and mostly just patience and elbow grease if you're doing it by hand with Scotch-Brite (it's not super aggressive even in their most coarse pad). The nice thing about the Scotchbrite is you don't have to necessarily get in-line finish and it won't look too bad I believe.
 
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening said:
Well if you're going to do more than just the flecks of coating left by the handle, it would mostly be as you describe but of course it will be a lot of work doing that one by hand. You don't have to follow the grind lines, it's really up to you how you want it to look. It would be pretty much impossible to get an 'in-line' scratch pattern to the finish (from spine to edge) without taking the handles off and reinstalling afterwards. You could just use your hand/finger to get it into the corners or you could buy a hand pad holder (not sure how well this would work here though). With everything though it does take a bit of learning curve to get good at this and mostly just patience and elbow grease if you're doing it by hand with Scotch-Brite (it's not super aggressive even in their most coarse pad). The nice thing about the Scotchbrite is you don't have to necessarily get in-line finish and it won't look too bad I believe.
Click to expand...

Were you known by a different forum name in the past?
 
I just let em have it with a wire wheel attachment on a drill after stripping..
 
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