Picked up another grinder Wilton square wheel and have a few questions

Barry Clodfelter

Barry Clodfelter

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May 29, 2007
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I came across a Wilton square wheel yesterday on CL for what I think was very reasonable - $175 and I couldn't get there fast enough! Anyway, I looked for a model number on it and there doesn't appear to be one at least not that I saw. I believe it is an old one and weighs probably a lot. The platen has 1.5" x 1.5" top wheel and a 1.5" x 3" bottom wheel and after searching to the end of the internet last night I couldn't find answers to several questions and I hope you guys will know or can point me in the right direction.

1- On Jantz I saw the small wheel fork listed to fit either Bader or Wilton. Are the posts that connect to the tool arm the same size on both - read that interchangable?

2- I can build a new platen assembly for it using Ed Caffery's plan but wondered if I would have to shim out the drive and tracking wheels because I would drill and tap the platen for bolts like my KMG instead of the type wheels that are on the existing platen.

3- It doesn't have a tool rest and I will need to build one. Can someone take a few pics of a Wilton tool rest showing it all the way around so I can get an idea of what to build?

4- Any idea where the model number is on it?

Since us knifemakers need pics to know it happened here are a few obligatory pics.

IMG_0473_zps2fff11cb.jpg

IMG_0475_zps52fac49f.jpg

IMG_0474_zpsa11983aa.jpg
 
Barry Clodfelter said:
I came across a Wilton square wheel yesterday on CL for what I think was very reasonable - $175 and I couldn't get there fast enough! Anyway, I looked for a model number on it and there doesn't appear to be one at least not that I saw. I believe it is an old one and weighs probably a lot. The platen has 1.5" x 1.5" top wheel and a 1.5" x 3" bottom wheel and after searching to the end of the internet last night I couldn't find answers to several questions and I hope you guys will know or can point me in the right direction.

1- On Jantz I saw the small wheel fork listed to fit either Bader or Wilton. Are the posts that connect to the tool arm the same size on both - read that interchangeable?

2- I can build a new platen assembly for it using Ed Caffery's plan but wondered if I would have to shim out the drive and tracking wheels because I would drill and tap the platen for bolts like my KMG instead of the type wheels that are on the existing platen.

3- It doesn't have a tool rest and I will need to build one. Can someone take a few pics of a Wilton tool rest showing it all the way around so I can get an idea of what to build?

4- Any idea where the model number is on it?

Since us knifemakers need pics to know it happened here are a few obligatory pics.
Click to expand...

That is a screaming good deal and the old ones are heavier than the new ones.

If you can find a manual on line that will answer some of your questions re the tool rest at least.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/wi...l-belt-grinder-parts-c-32774_32777_32778.html

http://www.misgroupinc.com/partfiles/m_4103.pdf



2.
Why would you build a new platen like EC ?
He just copied the SW platen onto the KMG and that's what you already have ?

You want to add a platen liner like a glass ?
The wheel mounts have eccentric centers and you can loosen them, set them out farther and retighten.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/co...445063.html?osCsid=hgcbm1k4ecd014fobqvlan4ah5
See how the mount hole is eccentric
part_5044590.gif


3
There are some line drawings in the manual that should help,
It can be as simple as two pieces of angle iron bolted together, one with a slot in it.




I''d love to see more pics of the tracking and tension system.
 
Thanks for the links count! I want to build a new platen because there is no way to flat grind on it with a 2" belt and 1.5" wide wheels. I tried and the left side I could get lined up to the edge of the platen but the right side was trouble because the belt hung over the wheels and wanted to jump around.

This grinder doesn't have the eccentric wheels, there is just a bolt thru the platen into the wheel at least on the bottom wheel the top wheel didn't want to come off.

I would have to modify the KMG platen to make it work on this one and I would rather build one since Wilton wants almost $500 for a new one without the tool rest. I think I can build one a lot cheaper than that and make it work just as good.

I noticed that the newer ones don't have the drive wheel brake like this one does. I will try to get some pics of the tracking set up soon as I have time to get back in the shop. The tension system looks just about like the newer ones.

Seems like the post that mounts in the tool arm was 11/32" and I wondered what the post size is on a Bader.
 
The Wilton Square Wheel grinder was previously made by Olympic, and is
now made ( or at least marketed ) by Jet.

The Jet Square Wheel is offered by TruGrit Abrasives.The current tool rest and
some other parts look to be interchangable.

You may find that yours runs faster than you'd prefer. A 7" slow down wheel is available
which will improve efficiency.

The vertical lever is a brake...don't use it. It will wear down the crown on the drive wheel
and ruin tracking.


Added...looks like we were typing at the same time....
 
Last edited:
Russ Andrews said:
The vertical lever is a brake...don't use it. It will wear down the crown on the drive wheel
and ruin tracking.
Click to expand...

Barry Clodfelter said:
T

I noticed that the newer ones don't have the drive wheel brake like this one does. .
Click to expand...

If you are using a speed controll like a VFD those controls have a dynamic electronic braking function so the brake is not as important as it would have been on a single speed motor that you want to do many belt changes on.
 
Great buy. The Square Wheel Grinder was my first grinder. I have used it hard for 30 years and it still runs great. I bought mine around 1980, and your looks to be a model older than mine. Nothing wrong with that. Congratulations.
 
Great score! I have an Olympic square wheel I believe is even older than that one.

I'd take a pic of my tool rest but it's really no different than the one pictured above. If I was going to build another one, I'd try to incorporate some of the articulation capability of the Wilmont TAG tool rest.

If you put the slow down wheel on, you'll have to drill and tap another hole out front to extend your tooling arm out to increase the wheelbase. Let me know if you do this and need help. I did mine that way, but ultimately put a 2hp three phase motor on it and just put the original drive wheel back on. Works fine.
 
Ken, those are perfect thanks brother!

the person who owned it before me looks to have used that brake quit a bit as the pad is worn down and there is no crown on the drive wheel. Guess a little electrical tape will be in order for it and the tracking wheel as well.

I don't plan to hook up a VFD on it just planning to use it for profiling and other odd tasks since it runs at a super sonic speed. And a tool rest will be necessary.

Randy you must have slept late yesterday. LOL. It was at a gun shop in Pineville and I was there not long after they opened. good thing I my office is only about 10 miles from there.
 
Salem Straub said:
I'd take a pic of my tool rest but it's really no different than the one pictured above. If I was going to build another one, I'd try to incorporate some of the articulation capability of the Wilmont TAG tool rest.

If you put the slow down wheel on, you'll have to drill and tap another hole out front to extend your tooling arm out to increase the wheelbase. Let me know if you do this and need help. I did mine that way, but ultimately put a 2hp three phase motor on it and just put the original drive wheel back on. Works fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks Salem! My thought exactly on articulating the tool arm. For now I'm just gonna run it like it is...wide open. If I do go with a VFD I'll probably just leave the drive wheel alone so no other mods are needed.
 
The drive wheel in my grinder has a flat face, and not because the brake wore it down. Perhaps yours is the same. I did put a strip of tape on my tracking wheel for a while, but ultimately turned a crown onto a 4" caster, put good bearings into it, and replaced the original tracking wheel. It runs way smoother now.
 
Here are a couple pics of the tracking system as requested. It took quite a bit of work to get everything taken apart and there wasn't nearly as much dirt, dust and nastiness as I expected. It cleaned up nicely.

Started putting a new platen design on paper last night and if there is an interest I'll do a WIP?

IMG_0476_zps61f71787.jpg

IMG_0478_zps2eda133e.jpg
 
Barry Clodfelter said:
Here are a couple pics of the tracking system as requested. It took quite a bit of work to get everything taken apart and there wasn't nearly as much dirt, dust and nastiness as I expected. It cleaned up nicely.

Started putting a new platen design on paper last night and if there is an interest I'll do a WIP?

IMG_0476_zps61f71787.jpg

IMG_0478_zps2eda133e.jpg
Click to expand...


I'd like to see a WIP! I picked up a used one and it just came with a rest and an 8" wheel.
 
I have a newer version of the Wilton SW. Its my first 2x72 and has been fine for my needs. However, I think this machine would greatly benefit from an articulating work rest. I've also found the stock tool rest arm is a bit flimsy, especially with pressure on the right end of my extended work rest... a lot of flex and distortion. I'm looking for a way to "beef it up" a bit. Finally, I will be getting a slow down wheel for my machine. Its just way to fast for a variety of tasks.



-Peter
 
I was wondering if you ever got around to making the platen? I just ordered the wheels last week and the should be here in another 3 weeks or so. I'll post pics of what i come up with if there is any interest.
 
I thought I would show what I did for attachments for my square wheel. I milled out the slot between where the allen head bolts go. I got some 1/2" steel and with a cutting torch cut it to shape and made some other attachments. These go on and off very quickly. Hopefully the pictures show what I am talking about.
 

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