Picking a new set of bench stones, need advice!

[bonesthedog]

For a long time, I've reprofiled and sharpened on a set of extremely old (my great-grandfathers) India and Arkansas stones. I occasionally touch up with a Sharpmaker, but I find I can get my knives pretty sharp on benchstones.

However, these stones are on their last legs and the grit does not go up to as fine a polish as I would like.

So, here are my thoughts, tell me what you guys think is the best.

-A set of Norton waterstones. Either the combo stones or the 4 grits, whichever is better.

-A set of DMT stones. No idea which to get, looks like the non-perforated ones look the best. No idea on length, which grits, combo / non combo.

-Shaptons. Don't know anything about them, how they work, what grits to get, etc.

-Japanese waterstones- I always hear about them, I have no idea which brands are best, or where to get them.

-Something else!

So, any thoughts on which type / brand of benchstones I should pick, and which ones to buy from their respective line?

Thanks!

 

[jiggyfly16]

:thumbup: on dmt. they are always flat, they cut even the hardest of metals, and they last you a long time. what grit you would get is entirely up to you.

I have the red/green diafold and it gets my knives SHARP, and after stropping you say? HAIR POPPING SHARP

 

[THG]

I have the perforated DMT stones. My "set" includes a black XC and a red F. That's all I really need, although I think I might pick up an EF, this one with a continuous surface.

If I were to redo it, I would get the ones with the continuous surface, although my perforated ones work well, too.

 

[Dakki]

If you go the Japanese waterstone route, I recommend Naniwa brand. I've been using them in 400 to 3000 grits for a year and I'm impressed enough by them that I'm saving up for stones up to 12000 grit - and they can get seriously expensive!

 

[Jason B.]

I have been hand sharpening for 18 years and have used almost every stone and system that came along. I always stuck with hand sharpening because my edges were always sharper than with any jig, plus I enjoy it more, more "In touch" with the edge. I used Spyderco ceramics for the longest and would still highly recommend them, they work very well at finishing carbon steel blades but as the steels got better the ceramics started working slower. I started looking for some more or new sharpening stones and after doing a lot of homework I was almost set on getting a full set of waterstones. I then found diamonds and that is the way it will stay. I went with the DMT hones because thay have the XX-Fine(8000mesh/3 micron) and a good rep. In total I have the X-coarse, fine, X-fine, and XX-fine dia-sharp 8x3 benchstones, I plan on getting the other 2 to finish the set but what I have works fine for now. I also use diamond compounds on my strop and well, I let you guess how well that works.

If I had to start all over again with what I know now It would be diamond stones all the way. You may not get the best finish on you bevel but you WILL have the sharpest edge.

If you want the perfect mirror finish add a Spyderco UF ceramic as you last stone before the strop. It will look better and still be very close in sharpness but that diamond edge is really something.

This is right after the ceramic no stropping

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I love my Spyderco ceramics. I use them on my straight razors and they work like a charm! I like diamond for fast removal (go DMT!) and ceramic for finishing.

 

[bonesthedog]

Yea, I'm thinking about going the way of the DMT stones (with an angled piece of wood to set my degree), and a stop to finish. My jeweler buddy just gave me some green rouge for the final finish / polish. The waterstones, while nice, seem messy and more maintenance (flattening the dishing, etc). DMT seems like my best bet.

So, what grits (I would want the continuous surface) and should I go for the combo ones or no? Also, where is the best (lowest price) to buy a set of them?

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

You should get some water stones, too, and never lap them. Then you'll have a nice set of convexing stones.

 

[fulloflead]

If you want the perfect mirror finish add a Spyderco UF ceramic as you last stone before the strop. It will look better and still be very close in sharpness but that diamond edge is really something.

This is right after the ceramic no stropping

That's freakin' crazy! You can see the text around the camera lens reflected in the edge! Did you do that freehand or was it clamped in something with you using a guide?

BTW, I put a mirrror edge like that on the exact same knife using an EdgePro. I still have it for now but I'm going to sell it.



.

 

[Jason B.]

That's freakin' crazy! You can see the text around the camera lens reflected in the edge! Did you do that freehand or was it clamped in something with you using a guide?

BTW, I put a mirrror edge like that on the exact same knife using an EdgePro. I still have it for now but I'm going to sell it.



.

That CPM-D2 gets nice and shiny and that's freehand my friend.

 

[fulloflead]

That CPM-D2 gets nice and shiny and that's freehand my friend.

Yeah, it does. I've polished it a few times. I don't know about people who complain about not being able to sharpen D2. I think it's the best.

Still, freehand... you have some mad skills!

.

 

[Jason B.]

Yeah, it does. I've polished it a few times. I don't know about people who complain about not being able to sharpen D2. I think it's the best.

Still, freehand... you have some mad skills!

.

Thanks, here's a little close up you might like. I guess I should add that my UF ceramic has been re-lapped by spyderco and is much finer than before, closer to a 1 micron stone instead of the standard 3 micron.

 

[John Frankl]

1. How does one get Spyderco to relap a stone?

2. I have a new in the box Naniwa 12,000, and a 10,000 as well. I do not really like waterstones. I know this is not the for sale area but you are welcome to contact me offline.

johnfrankl@yahoo.com

 

[Broos]

I am very happy with Shapton Pros & DMT perforated plates (they were cheaper than diasharps when I bought mine), but I really want to try these waterstones:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/...&Product_Code=MS-CHOSERA.XX&Category_Code=THW

And if you would send me over $2200, I'll let you try the mac-daddy finishing stone for a while :

http://www.thejapanblade.com/nakayama23.htm

Haven't used my hard ceramic stones or oil stones much after getting the Shaptons and some (real) waterstones, so your personal preference is something you will have to figure out from experience.

 

[bonesthedog]

Is there an advantage to buying a single grit of DMT instead of getting a combo stone?

Also, what length / grits should I get?

And wheres the best place to buy em?

Edit: Nevermind, there's a whole thread about the question I just asked.

 

[THG]

Is there an advantage to buying a single grit of DMT instead of getting a combo stone?

I don't have a diasharp, but if I were to guess, I would say that the advantage of the single grit stones is that you don't have to worry about the surface you're placing the stone on; the bottom side won't ruin the table (unless the regular Diasharps are also abrasive on both sides).

Also, what length / grits should I get?

I recommend the largest you can get, the 11.5". That's what I would have gotten if I were to redo everything.

And wheres the best place to buy em?

New Graham, Knifeworks, Your Corner Store.

 

[Infi-del]

For a long time, I've reprofiled and sharpened on a set of extremely old (my great-grandfathers) India and Arkansas stones. I occasionally touch up with a Sharpmaker, but I find I can get my knives pretty sharp on benchstones.

However, these stones are on their last legs and the grit does not go up to as fine a polish as I would like.

So, here are my thoughts, tell me what you guys think is the best.

-A set of Norton waterstones. Either the combo stones or the 4 grits, whichever is better.

-A set of DMT stones. No idea which to get, looks like the non-perforated ones look the best. No idea on length, which grits, combo / non combo.

-Shaptons. Don't know anything about them, how they work, what grits to get, etc.

-Japanese waterstones- I always hear about them, I have no idea which brands are best, or where to get them.

-Something else!

So, any thoughts on which type / brand of benchstones I should pick, and which ones to buy from their respective line?

Thanks!

Spyderco makes benchstones in the same grits as the sharpmaker stones. I own the medium, fine, and ultra-fine spyderco benchstones and love them. The cut really well and are super easy to maintain.