Pics of a failed piece just for fun

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Jun 17, 2010
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I kept having the urge to make something bigger, more along the lines of a mini machete or camp chopper. However, the only steel I have to work with is 1/8" 1080, 1.5" wide.

Eventually I decided to just go for it, and use it as a practice piece if nothing else. The original plan was for a G10 or Micarta handle in black with aluminum corby bolts. Of course it would/will get a thong hole. As you can see, I didn't go as far as the handle or even fully finishing post heat treat. I ground the edge and sanded it down for the most part but the heat treat was only partially a success. It got hard, that part was a bear due to the length (too big for my little HT forge) but worked out. The problem is that it wound up pretty badly warped and despite my best efforts I couldn't get it close enough to straight to even consider putting up for sale. It's not even really flat enough to put scales on, I'd have to go to a lot of effort to avoid a distinct gap and it's just not worth the time, it will never be straight enough overall (my skill is at fault, I'm sure someone with skill at forging could straighten it easily enough). I put the cord wrap on just to test the blade and will most likely drill a thong hole next time I'm doing that for another knife. Who knows, maybe I'll slap some scales on it later, a little colored epoxy as filler.... It'll be good enough to toss in my camping gear.
chopperfail.JPG


The blade is a convex grind, slight recurve but most of the curve is actually at the spine where I dished out a bit. I'm not sure I like the design or not, particularly in 1/8" steel, it was kind of light for the concept already. Perfectly straight wasn't working for me though, and I didn't want to take the weight off at the tip.

I learned a bunch making this oddity. The biggest thing I learned was that my little heat treat setup is NOT sufficient for something this long. Maybe if I add a muffle tube or something, but trying to get the whole blade up to temp at once was very difficult. Only the blade and maybe an inch past the plunge lines is hardened, so putting holes in won't be a problem. If I make another, or anything else this big, it will have to go out for HT. That opens up other options in steel as well.

Overall I'm a bit bummed about the failure, but I knew going in that it probably wouldn't turn out as planned and used it as an opportunity to try new techniques and ideas. If nothing else, it's one heck of a chopper for the weight, just with a funky warp. The more I think about it the more I think I will put some scales on it anyway. The cord wrap's almost as bad as nothing on this and unless I'm scrapping it entirely it needs a handle.
 
I don't have anything I can clamp it to/with that will hold up to the temper cycle any better. At least not that I can think of. It's also not just a bend, bit of a twist somehow as well. I'm at the point where I've just got a bit of steel and belt wear invested in terms of materials, and a few hours of my time. I don't think I'll be able to make this one good enough to be comfortable selling so investing significant additional time outside maybe a basic handle just seems silly. The warp/bend isn't so bad as to impair use so I'll just keep it for myself.

If it was smaller I have things I could clamp it with/to, but nothing this big and particularly not with the twist in there. I hand straightened it immediately after the first temper cycle as much as I could, most of what's left is from the twist.
 
Clamp it to a big ol file and temper it. If the tang is a problem give it a taper... there is no such thing as failed knives.... just shorter ones and opportunities for trying new methods.

Rick
 
if I had a bit enough file.... and I'm not sure how that'd handle the slight twist, it's not consistent. Kind of hard to describe and doesn't show in pics, it's almost a wiggle. I'm pretty sure it was my fault during the HT, I probably wasn't careful enough about how I moved it while it was hot enough in some areas and not in others... It took me a bit to even the heat out and get it all up to temp. I'm sure the grain structure is wacko from all that as well.

Great idea on the tang though. When I get to doing a handle for it I'll do that. Between a bit of a taper ground in and some vulcanized rubber liner material....
 
Lately I've been attending swap meets in a small town (Monroe, WA). There are always a few sellers that have old rusty tools, including really large files (yes, some of them Nicholson files). By really large, I mean 12 - 18 inches, and very thick and heavy. Generally, because of the rust, they only want a buck or two per file. I use them to get a nice flat edge on something by claming the file to the desk and rubbing whatever I need to file over the flat face.

These files would be ideal for your purpose of flattening the blade in tempering. Some of them even had a domed face in addition to the flat face, which would add to their structural rigidity. You could clamp the holy heck out of them and never see them give so much as a micron.

Look for estate sales too. I've been really lucky at estate sales. Lots of old folks really got into woodworking after retirement, and the tools they leave behind are not interesting to most folks going to estate sales.

- Greg
 
In the past I have dealt with twisted blades like this...

1. Bring it up to tempering heat.
2. From the oven, clamp the handle/blade (so that only the twisted part is pointing out) into a vice with wood/leather liners.
3. Use a 2x4 with a notch cut into it to slip over the spine of the blade for leverage
4. Twist as needed.

Notice that I made "spine" bold. Don't try to twist from the edge, it won't work and will most likely break. Move the spine and the edge will follow.

Of course, wear safety gear.

This is a bit risky and you may want to spring temper the spine... but like you said... It ain't going to a customer like that!.... what's the big deal if it breaks?

I set it up to show you what I meant...

IMG_0119-1.jpg
 
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If the handle didn't harden, chop it into a tang and make it a hidden tang. I agree with others on trying another round of straightening directly after a temper. If nothing else, test to near destruction then try to re-ht with a water quench just for kicks!
 
Good idea, Rick. I'd have to do it in stages on this guy due to how it twisted but if I worked fast it would probably let me get it closer. I probably won't try on this guy, it's not a major twist at this point, just multi-directional, the big issue was the handle and the tapered tang suggestion will fix that.

Greg, that's a really good idea as well. You don't see many around here but there are a few now and then. I'm pretty lacking in woodworking equipment and that would be a great way to pick up some quality tools at a great price, not just some large files.
 
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